levitator

So I went through with it. Had to bore out the hole from 1/2" to 3/4" which kinda sucks because I still had to drill into the guitar but hey, IT WORKS!! No more whacking my knuckles or accidentally switching pups!

The title basically says it all. I have a Sterling JP150 and I LOVE it! The only problem is the toggle switch is RIGHT in the way. I thought about moving it but I use the tone and volume knobs and I do have the capabilities to bore a new hole and move it to it's own spot but I don't really want to. so I was jamming the other night and the volume pot has a push button boost and I thought "why don't i just make the pickup selector switch a push button too?" I don't know much about electronics or wiring but it's just connecting two points in a circuit right? what's the difference if it's a switch or a button? I never use the middle position so I was hoping It would just work like ON=Neck pup, OFF= Bridge pup. Or am I way off and toggle switches are more complicated than that?

I have a guitar that sounds great with the volume on 10 but when I turn the volume down to even 9.5 it sounds like I rolled my tone knob all the way off. Should I get a different volume pot or can I solder a capacitor or something in there to keep the highs. It's a LP and it does this on BOTH volume knobs

I'm a little confused on where to post this so I apologize if it's in the wrong spot. I've got a guitar that has a few high spots on some of the higher frets from 11-18 and it's really effecting how low my action can be so I've decided to try and level them out for the first time. I've got my fret rocker and notched straight edge. I've never done this before so I want to make sure I do it right and don't make any avoidable mistakes. It's a cheap LTD MH103qm so i'm not THAT worried about messing up but at the same time I don't have the money nor the skill for a refret if I do. I'm doing the whole, mark the high spots with a sharpie and slowly file the ink off with a small fine tooth file and then check the progress. Is there anything I should be aware of other than taking off too much material? and do you have to level the fret board for spot leveling?

I was watching a PRS factory tour on youtube and it just got me thinking....i've worked in detail shops and when my car needed detailed, i would pull it in after my shift ended and detail it for free. I've worked in factories where you could by "flawed" products at like 75% cheaper than retail. I've had guitars clear coated by a friend of mine who works in a cabinet shop for free. he just brings them into work and in his down time sprays them for me. I know something like that would never be FREE but I'm just curious if they get heafty discounts or maybe factory flawed models super cheap. Anyone know?

the ibanez s prestiges are about an inch thick around the pickups and about half an inch thick around the edges of the body and sound fine. balance has never been an issue either. oddly enough one of the only guitars that used to nose dive on me was a warlock which has a thick ass, heavy body. but i did the same thing as SB and put the strap button under the top horn. good to go.

alright...the issue wasn't resolved but upon even FURTHER inspection this time when i changed the strings i completely took the trem out and realized that the screws holding the...spring plate...?....are not put in perfectly horizontally in some of the pictures you can really see how uneven it is. THIS has got to be the problem correct? The screw on the right side is much lower than the one on the left. http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/6st...nt=SUNP0004.jpg here you can see the difference in the tension of the springs. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/6st...un/SUNP0001.jpg here's another view http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/6st...nt=SUNP0002.jpg ps - how can i just post pictures directly in the thread??