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padbug

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    Yorkshire, UK

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  1. Thank you very much for the pointers, guys. You've answered a lot of questions. I'll be sure to let you know how it comes out!
  2. Anybody? The way I think I have it is to take the length of the truss rod, minus the adjustable nut, and route a channel that length from the edge of the headstock angle. Is this correct, or should the truss rod be positioned a little further towards the body?
  3. I'm approaching a snag with my build when it comes to routing the truss rod cavity. I have the stewmac 18" allen nut rod, building an lp double cut with the body finishing at the 19th fret. Where do I start and finish the route on the neck? Does the brass block at the adjustable end rest under the nut? I know that I need room to adjust the rod under the cover and that the rod should support as much of the neck as possible, but I cannot find a definite answer and don't want to charge into my first neck all willy nilly. Thank you!
  4. I agree, now that avangers pointed it out. Maybe some kind of burst would soften the blow, so to speak? Other than that, it looks great
  5. Can I ask what tool you used to finish the inside of the cavity? I'm halfway through chambering my build and I'm struggling to finish the process with all my fingertips in tact
  6. Hey guys, I've hit a wall *EDIT* But I might have found a solution. Please disregard
  7. Haha, ''clang''! Jealous and helpful! Thank you mate Masterblastor - the body's a real nice mahogany slab that would have done the whole build had I not overcompensated with planing it down =/ as it is now I need wood for a top. Hopefully my father in law can help me out from his oak horde, even though I don't hear great things about it as an instrument wood (but that doesn't bother me nearly as much as it's reputation for being hard to work!). As for the neck, it's a maple/paduak/wenge laminate I bought on ebay pre-planed. Were it rough finished I doubt I'd be up to building a neck just yet, but as it is I'm fairly confident I can have a good crack Batfink - this may suprise you but I had no idea that place existed! I just wish I could drive Thanks for all the tips guys! I'll be back all over this when I get home again next weekend, I'll have more progress to show asap
  8. Hey, hey, hey now, I'm not from Holmfirth I don't think I am being unreasonable. I didn't mean to rant, but I don't come here to be made an example of. Spoke is quick to point to the bajillions of previous glue threads, and few are relevant. In fact, in Buter's search, of the first page only some 2 or 3 threads are actually seeking glue recommendations. In the 1st thread the asker asks, and receives a dozen piss-take replies before someone recommends Titebond. Brilliant. Spoke came across as arrogant and condescending. If that was unintentional then fine, let's draw a line under it and move on, but I'd suggest he take a few moments more next time before imposing his own forum standards on people asking for help.
  9. Oh I'm sorry - did I seek help with an issue relevant to my build in my own thread? If you had even read my question, you would have seen that I was asking if either of the glues I already owned would be suitable, not beginning a new thread entitled "URNGH HI GUYS PLZ LIST GLUE MAKES 4 GITARS." As you might have gathered, I am a novice, not an idiot. As the other guys here have highlighted - and as I said - there are a lot of crossover qualities amongst the many thousands of different types of glue. As far as I was aware, a glue such as Titebond is a brand name, and not a recipe, so going into a hardware shop and asking for "Titebond, and ONLY Titebond!" is likely to get me absolutely nowhere. Please help if you can, but if my impudence is too much to bear, don't berate me for asking. /done. As it happens, I used neither. I did a dry run of the clamping set-up I thought through and it looked massively incapable, so I dared not risk it until I get home again.
  10. Do you think it's ideal or just the lesser of two evils?
  11. Haha, that's the plan! I have an idea in mind to make the guitar whale or Herman Melville-themed. We'll see how well that turns out(!) And as an aside, for my first scarf joint and first use of a tenon saw I am very satisfied. It's a pretty tidy cut after all and sets up the headstock to be 18 degrees from the neck (aimed for 17 degrees). Not too shabby Quick guestion gang; I am away for a week for tomorrow, and I wish to glue up the scarf joint (now fully sanded and prepared) so it can have all 168 hours to set and I can continue when I return. Routing around, I have found two different wood glues, and each promising slightly differing results and crossing over in a few places, and with the internet not being an especially definitive tool, I wonder if you guys could help a brother out. Which glue would you recommend (if either) for the glueing of a scarf joint in a guitar neck? I already owned these, but wanted to find titebond, as that's the brand most sources recommend or swear by, but it seems impossible to find either in the UK or at least within walking distance. Will either of these suffice? I'm 60% sure I could use either but I want to be 100%, and also use the right tool for the job.
  12. Certainly food for thought! Thing is I'm not so au fait with planing that I can say I can get the neck surface flat enough cock-up free, and as I (more by luck than judgement) bought a pre-planed neck blank, I'm VERY keen to leave the surface of the neck well alone! So what I'd like to do is leave that surface well alone if I can, and carve the neck from the back. Doing it with hand tools is, I find, a very wasteful way of doing things. Had I a bandsaw I think I could have gotten the body and a top from the original slab of mahogany. As things stand now though I'm looking for a top - stylistically a good thing but not financially. But those are the breaks. I'm rather resigned to that fact though, so I've thought through a way of bringing the neck to thickness using a router and a jigsaw. I think the first drawing in the diagram - thinning the headstock - will be the biggest factor in the final positioning of the nut.
  13. Of course o.o I would love to be able to afford a bandsaw, but I made do with a tenon. Given it's my first crack at any kind of luthiery/substantial woodword since high school I think it's actually in pretty good shape.
  14. Made a lot more progress. Though it's been so long since the first post, I've only actually had 4 days to work on the build, and the work I've done has taken about 12 hours, which I'm pretty pleased about Body routed and planed to thickness: It's now sanded too. Not to a high grit but to touch it's as smooth as a baby's bottom. The face that was worked on is going to be the back of the guitar so I'm not worried about it being prerfectly flat. The MDF in the top left of the picture is the template for the body shape. Watershed moment! Started on the neck! Cut the blank in preperation for the scarf joint. Next step is to precisely sand the part down to glue them together in this shape: Also, a template is prepared to route the body cavaties. Hopefully work on this on Sunday, and route the truss rod channel if I can find a bit thin enough. Then it'll be all on hold until I can source a nice top, maybe an old table or reclaimed timber.
  15. I really like the 'blend' control, I was mullling over doing something like that on my build to minimise the number of knobs on the face. Do you have any wiring diagrams for doing something like this, or do you know of anywhere I could find one? Beautiful build, too
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