pauliemc

Prostetha is right agout the carve for this guitar. I think you have it about right on the front face. If you were to try make it more aerofoiled / thined out toward the top, you would need to be removing material from the back only. The larger ends of the horns on this model lend themselves more toward being thicker than on something like a JS. I would leav the front - any removal of material now should only be from the back, But then thats only my opinion. & you know what they say about opinions - exactly, Only mine counts & everyone else can shove it

You need to take off a lot of material. simple as that realy. I generally start with a 45-50mm thick body, mark a carve line on the front & back face thats about where I want the curve to start. mark a pair of lines along the top edge/side that are 20mm apart. then just get a spoke shave, a pair of good rasps & a No.7 plane - take away all of the material untill you join the lines. once its almost there just take the square edges off with a fine rasp in long strokes along the edge. dont bother with profile templates because you will need so many it is a joke. do it by feel. I like to use long planes & rasps, you get a better movement & more controlled carve that way, long soled planes & nothing less that an 8 inch rasp - no wider that 1.5 inch. Alternativly, you can use gouges. palm or hammer driven. But just make sure they are small gouges & kept razor sharp. I use this method only on harder timbers like Ash or Wenge. ScottR is a demon with palm gouges, you should go check his stuff out, much better than me with them, Im more a plane & file guy.

nice to see another member of the "carve the living hell outa of it" brigade. I do something similar to some of mine. Your probobly gonna find that you want to take a little more off the faces & thin it more once you do the edge radius. It alwasy comes out a little bigger than you expect at first.

It may be some time before you can clear over the paint if you use oils, they can have a very long curing time. especially if you use them like me - thick. If you choose not to clear it you will have issues preserving the painting due to player wear. I have always tended toward acrylics fir this kind of stuff, as I can at least clear that after about 4-6 months. Still - cool project

Sooooooo, you pulled it outa the fames then clear coated it yea, charcoal face n all yea ?

I think scotty is right, just the timber grain. Sometimes you can get issues with glue seepage up into the grain if the top is to thin, or if the back surface was not properly plained. but that looks thick enough & of decent quality. So I think its just the grain goin funky at those points.

you should always get back on man. I hae my harley about 15 years & had to fix it up after idiots hitting it before, just never this bad. but I will run it again, just under 300000 on it I think (no speedo. took it off after it went rount to 25000 the second time, so cant be sure exactly. but judging by yearly milage estimates its way up there)

back in the shop today for the first time in 2 months. An unfortunate altercation between myself & a toyota camry didnt go so well & has had me out of action since early september . pokin about the place, I cant beleive the amount of abandoned bodies & necks I have from builds that had changes too late in them to salvage the part. since im still a bit mashed up & not realy able to use my tools (you should have seen my attempt at plaining some cedar to make a body blank ) I rekon I should see what I can make up from the bits of guitar corpses I have here. some of which are actually fairly nice but fer now its time to clear out most of the junk to make way for my harley - who fared even worse than me in the drunk dipshit behind the wheel ordeal, starting tomorrow i will be replacing the forks, risers, handle bars, tank, primary cover, derby cover, clutch lever (foot), foot rest, both rear shocks, swing arm bearings, rear fender & light nacel, rear wheel, motor mounts & rear indicators. lucky I have mates that are even bigger petrol heads than me who are chipping in to help me do it

Hey scotty. Na, things are kind slow. been making binding & headstock facings, neck blanks & body blanks, cutting up bones to make nuts n saddles & inlay. some equipment maintenance on planes, planers, band saw, chisels etc etc. time consuming little jobs that are boring as hell but just need to get done you know. between all that, the family commitments & one of my customers being a tool I just have had no time to be poking about on the forum. Congrats on GOTM btw

the camera buffs among you might know how to stop the whites looking so sharp I could shave with them On the plus side. The gitir is playing real nice,

Its been a while since I put up anything. So here are a few of my King Mojo, just to try figure out how to use the new camera. koz im totally lost on how to use it properly

cant realy go wrong with a les paul, always a cool build. the trans black works realy well with the flame on this one

Thats turned out real sweet scotty. GOTM for sure with this one I rekon.

lookin reaaaaaaaal nice man. the quilt came out excellent.

Filling with CA is handy, but if I am doing it I always make sure that I fill the area way the hell up. be it a pin hole, crack, spalt soft patch or whatever. I always do it 2 - 3 times to be sure. Yo want a slight build up of CA above the surface that you can microplane back with a scraper. That way you dont end up with issues with sinking finishes later (most of the time anyway, Spalt & burl can still come back & slap you sometimes) But still. Lookin real good so far

Holy christ man. U batshit crazy sonovabitch. Luv d volute. I have to tip my hat to you man. Its been years since i saw a guitar i wish i had built. U just made my day - and the fookin gitir aints even finished up yet

Binding. Cedar can be kinda sift & the edges wont hold up ro any sort of abuse. So I would bind the front at least.

I would not bother about the chips at the fret on the board, just play the gitir & they will make no difference. Give us a few more piks of the chip in the maple, & some rough dimensions. we can advise you better then.

Each and every one of us say that exact same thing no matter how many builds came before. It's one reason we end up with way more guitars than we really need....... Welcome to the club! SR +1 to that. Dont know how many guitars Iv built over the years, either as AEolian or for another brand. But I have only ever liked 3 enough to want to keep them. & even those I am not actually 100% happy with, just love the way they play.

COOL Blue Zebrano I have done that on a couple of V's. looks realy well with what Scott calls my radioactive gloss finish. Light greens work well also but blue just has a realy cool look to it. groovey lookin axe dude

You have no real choice but to bind a spalted body. The stuff is just to soft in places & needs protecting. Carving it can be a real issue aswell so go glacier slow with it

Lookin real sweet Scott. I usually wait 16 weeks for nitro to dry before I buff the livin hell outa it.

Dude has been offered a way out. I will split the shipping costs on the guitars being returned, & the 3 white mojos are to be given to a client of mine (effectivly sold) who will allow me repair the damage (headstock veneers) when he is in dublin for a gig in the near future. Thats it - no invoices will be honoured. Take it or let the solicitor handle it.

Cool. puts me in mind of the bird fish.

If I get a tricky bit of wood binding I find that a few minits in boiling water makes it go like rope. You just have to be quick getting it roughed into place & use heat resistant gloves but it works a charm.