Mender

I'm still looking for something special that I don't have to take out a bank loan to purchase

If the top is thin enough, you can contour the body and steam and clamp the top to fit. If it is a very thick top, you can carve the contour on the top instead without going through to the main body wood.

Wow, what a choice. Some of you guys need to start turning out some really crap guitars to make voting easier I've decided to go for the Owl and the Fox because that top is something special, and the gold hardware shows it off a treat

Liked

Looking very good so far

If you read through the Accoustic and Hollow Body Guitar Chat forum, you will see just how much work goes into building an accoustic guitar. Then compare it with the solid body guitar build threads and see what you think. It's all there for you to see, and only you can decide which would be easier for you to build. As for cost, a solid body guitar could be built cheaper than an accoustic, but an accoustic could be built cheaper than a solid. It all depends on what materials and hardware you wish to use.

Thanks Louis

CAN YOU HEAR ME? No problems here with email notifications, so I don't know why you are having problems

I'm not really a lover of LP type body shapes, but the workmanship on that guitar is excellent

No problems here with email updates, so there can't be anything wrong with the board notification system

The A2 Clean and A2 Dirty both give the A2 Clean sample...

You need to use the following method: [img ]htt p://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/407017_362619627097481_546209924_n.jpg[/img ] without any spaces. Then you will see these:

Haha. If only it was that simple, we could each turn out a guitar every couple of days

I love the comment a customer made: Obviously, the thought never entered his head to fit the bit in the router and lock the spindle to change bearing

IMHO, the weight and density of the wood is the main factor in tone. Two different species of timber that have the same weight and density as each other will give the same tone due to the way the wood resonates sympathetically to the string vibrations. I base this on a guitar I worked on in the 1980s. It was a Strat type guitar with a mahogany body. The mahogany was heavy as lead, extremely tight grained, and as hard as iron. Not the sort of guitar I would want to play standing up for a couple of hours, but he played sitting down most of the time so the weight wasn't an issue for him. The owner had picked it up second hand and used it for a few months playing jazz. Due to severe buckle rash on the back and several deep scratches on the edges and front, he decided to have a new body made out of rock maple. I was given the job of making the new body. He had recordings of him practising scales, so we had had something to compare the finished job with. I shaped the maple exactly the same as the mahogany, and the same thickness. After finishing the body, it was only about 1/2 an ounce different in weight to the mahogany body. After assembling and setting up, he played and recorded the guitar in his rehearsal room and it sounded identical to the original body. Obviously, the weight and density of both bodies were pretty much identical, giving pretty much identical tone and sustain

Those are gorgeous. I hate you!

Welcome from an even older guy

The holes in the mixing stick really makes a huge difference compared to a popsicle stick, but even then you should mix for at least a couple of minutes. 30 seconds won't guarantee a perfectly mixed solution

For mixing, try something like these, much better than a solid stick http://www.transtool...cks-3-pack.html I actually make my own out of beech or oak, an inch wide and 1/8" thick, with several holes drilled through. Sand smooth and clean thoroughly to make sure there are no bits than can come off in the liquid. Mix backwards and forwards so the mixture is forced through the holes, as well as round and round, alternating between clockwise and anticlockwise.

At first I thought you said growl. I was going to say you'll do plenty of growling when a finish goes wrong Welcome to PG Forums =o)

You should be able to do string through without the strings fouling on the bridge by having the through holes further away from the bridge, therefore reducing the break angle.

First of all, adjust the high "e" bridge saddle as far forward as it will go (as close to the fretboard as possible), then adjust it back again just about one turn. Measure the exact distance from the point where the fretboard meets the nut to the centre of the 12th fret. The highest point on the bridge saddle for the high "e" should be exactly that same distance from the centre of the 12th fret. You don't need to fit the bridge at an angle as the range of adjustment is more than on a TOM bridge. Check out photos of the Jazzmaster and you will see they are all set straight

I'm not jealous, am I ? Of course I am! I wish I could get bargains like that over here

Don't forget to sand the finish off the front of the headstock before you attempt to glue the veneer on

What he said Very tastefully done