Devon Headen

All the neck blanks and fretboards have been sold. Everything else is still available.

The guy that said he'd buy it backed out. Back up for sale. I'll take 1500.

Feel free to make reasonable offers on any of the lumber.

Cleaning out the wood stash. The maple isn't all perfect, but I tried to show the imperfections in the pictures as well as possible. Shipping will be figured when you let me know what you want. All pictured unenhanced except the one of the walnut, I put some water on it to bring out the grain.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea..._Untitled-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea..._Untitled-3.jpg

Neck blanks (both sides)

Bocote - 34 1/2 x 3 3/8 x 7/8 $35

Indian Rosewood - 28 13/16 x 4 9/16 x 1 1/8 $45

Maple - 28 1/4 x 4 13/16 x 1 3/4 $35

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea..._Untitled-5.jpg

Fretboards - $8 each

Bocote - 24 x 3 x 1/4

3 Indian Rosewood - 20 1/2 x 2 7/8 x 3/8

Bloodwood - 22 x 3 1/8 x 3/8

Just make me offers on these maple tops and boards. The bookmatched tops are already glued up and mostly surfaced to level.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0013.jpg

Figured maple bookmatched 1 (second back pic to show imperfection) - 21 3/4 x 13 3/8 x 5/8

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0015.jpg

Figured maple bookmatched 2 - 24 x 14 1/2 x 5/8

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0016.jpg

Figured maple bookmatched 3 - 22 x 13 x 1/2 (needs more surfacing, but not much)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0011.jpg

Figured board 1 - 22 1/2 x 11 x 5/8

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0010.jpg

Figured board 2 - 24 x 10 x 11/16

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea...tn_wood0009.jpg

Slightly figured billet - 24 x 7 3/4 x 1 7/16

Last but certainly not least, the best piece of claro walnut I've ever seen:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea..._Untitled-7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Hea..._Untitled-6.jpg

Walnut - 17 3/4 x 8 1/8 x 1 3/4

This piece should yield a back, sides, and neck for a mandolin, I'm just scared I'll mess it up.

All the wood has been either air dried for at least 2 1/2 years or kiln dried then air dried for 2 years.

Someone has committed to buy it, but it will be a week or so until they have the money. Feel free to make offers in the mean time.

I have a 1998 714 with hardshell case for sale. Since it's almost 10 years old, it has really opened up. That along with the cedar top really makes a much more well balanced Taylor than any I've ever played new. I really wish I could hold onto it, but I've gotta get tuition money together, and I can't take it with me to school or it will disappear I'm sure. It's in really good shape for its age. Just a little finish chip on the heelblock and a few little dings on the top. Overall it's in extrememly good shape. Comes with the old style cases (really sturdy). I'd like to get $1600. Drop me a PM if you're interested or have any questions.

I've heard a few people say that Deft lacquer spray cans are compatible with dupli color coats. Deft is the best spray can lacquer I've ever used so it gets my vote.

The etched rule is the method I use now, too. Get one with hundredths of an inch an you can mark slots as accurately as possible by hand.

Doesn't sound like it was the cocobola to me. I'd say just handle it quite a bit and see what happens. Having such a localized reaction when you handled it with both your hands suggests something else caused whatever reaction you had. My $.02.

Get somebody with handwriting you like to do it.

If you want a Gibson get a Gibson. Changing the headstock decal is fraud and whatever stroke your ego would receive from people thinking you had a Gibson would not be worth the trouble of the actual job. If you want a Gibson, save your money and get a Gibson.

I believe it's a decal. I think I remember hearing Paul Reed Smith used to sign each headstock so each one was unique. Not sure where or if I'm just making stuff up, though.

What size kerf does the blade you used to slot the board cut, and how does it relate to the fret tang? My guess is that you just got some compression and next time either need to use a bigger blade, different fretwire, or trim the tang size of the fretwire you're using now. I would adjust the neck so it reads as flat as you can get is, then level.

Looks nice. Why did you decide to put the tailpiece so far back and use string trees?

Also, can we get some pics of the back of the guitar?

I'm not sure what soapbar is talking about....

I think most people cannabalize other knobs. I've never seen the inserts anywhere.

It'd be a lot of work, you'd probably have to refinish the whole guitar. Nobody sees the back anyway, I wouldn't worry about it.

Deft can be had at just about any hardware store.

I don't have any personal experience with duplicolor, but I would do a forum search and read about it before using it. I've heard many more horror stories about it than I've heard success stories. It doesn't cure hard enough is the most common complaint. Deft is the best spray can clear I've ever used, and I've never had compatability issues over any paint. That's not to say it will never react, just be sure to test on scrap first. That goes for whatever paint you decide to use.

Wow, that explains it. Looks like I've been doing it all wrong. Thanks for the tips.

What is the best way to store CA? I bought a two ounce bottle of the stuff earlier this year thinking it would last me forever. After a few uses I had to start trimming the tip shorter and shorter because the glue would dry and clog the tip. When I went to use it again recently, I discovered the entire bottle had cured! I always put the top back on, but I guess I didn't get a good seal. I've never heard of this happening before. So now I have a solid chunk of CA that used to be almost 2 ounces of glue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, because I like CA, but I can't afford to keep buying it if this will happen every time.

Just PM Brian. I got mine changed awhile back.

You'll get upgraded when the Admin sees the donation. I can't imagine it taking more than a day or two.

Welcome!

You'll fit right in with all the other metalheads around here.

LGM doesn't use CNC...unclej got my vote, but erik was a VERY close second. I wish I could vote for both.

It looks like you're breaking through the sealer coat at that spot. Have you been concentrating some of your sanding in that area?

And for future reference, that's not a neck, it's a body.