drpossehl

Thanks for the help guys. Ill grain fill twice next time with epoxy. Will be using Mcfaddens also next time. Is there a better epoxy to use?

I have built 2 guitars so far. I used two part devcon 30 min epoxy for grain filler both times with Deft clear lacquer sprayed for the top coat. I let them cure for months before finish sanding and polishing and they looked super when finished. Six months later you can start to see the grain pores again. I know that lacquer shrinks. Does the glue shrink also, because I filled and leveled the grain pores once and now the lacquer is shrinking into the pores. Is it possible to prevent this (grain showing later), or is this a fact of life with laquer paint? Next build is swamp ash with huge grain to fill. I will be using McFaddens lacquer this time. Will this shrink less or about the same? Dave

I use them with fixed bridges and love them! I'll never go back for that matter. you can get chrome Schaller Mini Locking Tuners for $51 a set at warmoth.com . For that price, theres nothing dumb about it. Gotta agree with Greg, Not "necessary" perhaps, but nothing wrong with spoiling yourself. For all the work you are doing to build it, whats a few more bucks in the end going to hurt?

Im happy with my results as far as looks goes, I'm just looking for the best product. I Have a good spray gun and thought I might as well use it. I tried searching but didn't find much discusion about brands of lacquer.

I also am switching from rattle can, (Deft), to gun. I wish someone would answer to original question. Which nito lacquer gives the best resaults?

Thanks, that was very informative!

Ya, the only info I can find is from the seller's site, not the end user's. Not to imply that the seller is not sincere. Peoples styles very and while one person might think its the greatest and decide to sell them, another might find a flaw or isue with their particular usage. Thanks for the reply.

I'm thinking about getting one for my next project, and I'm looking for feedback from Trem King user's, if there are any here.

I am tooling up to eventually make my own through necks. What would I need to focus on to improve tonally over a Carvin neck. Is it a demensional thing? Just curious.

I'm doing just that with a Carvin neck! In fact I'm hanging out here between coats of Deft. I'm very happy with the quality of the Carvin neckthrough blank and would recomend them to anyone.

No I dont think this is typical at all. The ones I have played (about four in all) were in the .010"-.015" range at the first fret. Is your bridge set down on the body? Trem springs missing? How high at the 12th fret?

My post wasn't intended as a flame. My coments were regaurding the sheetmetal look, not the fit and finish. If you read my post again with that in mind you will under stand what I was trying to say. Sorry if it came off as being mean. It would be a great replacement for a sheet metal style bridge,like I allready tried to say. Peace, Dave

I love the idea of this bridge, having a trem that acts like a fixed bridge when not in use. The trouble is I'm building a nice looking carved top neck through, and that bridge looks like the $19.00 unit that came with my first Squire. I realize the stamped sheetmetal look resembles some of the vintage style bridges, but for that kind of money I would expect it to look more like a Hipshot or a Schaller fixed bridge. I would drop it in a strat any day, but it just doesn't look nice enough for a custom made guitar. The price it's self is fair for the mechanicals of it. It's looks just don't match it's price. Sorry Trem King I got to pass on this one.

ya, cross drill a hole from the controll cavity (or possibly bridge pickup cavity) to the post insert hole. Run your ground wire in to the hole prior to pushing in the post insert and your good to go.

You could do a search here for "SoundAt11" and then PM him. He also has a Ebay store (also uses SoundAt11 for a user name on Ebay). He has alot more wood then whats listed at Ebay.

I've had some good luck purchasing wood from one of the members of this board (SoundAt11). I just recieved some nice African mahogany for my neck through project. I bought a neck blank from Carvin. It's mahogany with a black ebony fret board. Will (SoundAt11) set me up with a couple pieces cut to size from his wood stash so I'm off and running. This one will be an all black carved double cut with gold hard ware. Going with a Schaller hard tail roller bridge and Schaller tuners. I got Bill Lawrence pickups ordered also. Should be nice when its all done. Dave

The first time I used Deft (spray can) I rushed the paint job and sprayed to often and to wet. It was like 6 weeks before I could wet sand with out the paper loading up. I learned my lesson and took my time spraying the next one. I still will wait 1 month minimum to sand and buff. Other then long cure time, I have no complaints about spray can Deft. I like the build another guitar while your waiting advise. Say, did anyone notice that this is addictive?

I did some searches and didn't find much on ebony fretboard finishing. What I would like to do is leave it plain. But I am concerned that it will not be as stable then. I know rose wood is oily and can be left raw. Is there a oil is should use on ebony? By the way, it is a Carvin mahogany through neck blank for my next project. Dave

And I wasn't trying to make it an issue either, just sorta pondering this out loud to the board. Anyway, thanks again for a great board.

First before I start I want to thank Brian and everyone here that makes this such a great site to hang out at. In fact I'm going to donate after posting this (been meaning to do it anyway). I like to hang out at Solid Body Guitar and Bass Chat. I have done lots of searches and few post's (26 post's) in the 11 months I have been here. I don't think I've had any conflicts with any other members yet, but I still hesitate when posting a specific question for fear of getting "yelled at". The forum (Solid Body Guitar and Bass Chat) is called "chat", and you should think you would be free to "chat", like you can in the off topics chat. Ohterwise why would you have two Solid Body Guitar and Bass forums and call one chat? After hanging out there one gets the fealing that it is maybe just alittle more formal then chat. Maybe some people assume they are free to "chat", and would rather chat then search on this forum. I'm just saying that the chat part of the title maybe is missleading. Dave

Thankyou for your replies,Dave

I know people ask about different woods quite often. And like I said, I read the links about tone woods. I'm sorry if I was not clear.I guess my question is more about how much the neck wood effects the tone compared to the body wood. And also how much of a factor the finger board is. I have seen alot of maple necks on mahogany bodies and so forth. I was looking to people who had put togather different combinations to share there experiences and opinions like mattia did. Not a lot of top end selection at the local music store( I dont want to build a squire, I already have one), but that is good advice otherwise.

What is your favorite nut matterial and why? Also what is your favorite nut glue? Thanks guys

I am planning my next (2nd) build and am trying to decide on a neck wood. I dont know weather to go with mahogany or maple. The body will be a 2" mahogany dbl cut carved top string through, with a strat type neck (looking at Warmoth necks). I am looking for somthing warm and fat sounding when played clean. I would think the neck would contribute more to tone then the body, but I dont know being a newbie. I will probably go with rosewood for a finger board, allthough I am considering ebony on a mahogany neck. I will be using a pearly gates pup in the neck and probably a Bill Lawrence L500XL for the bridge. I would think mahogany would be preaty weak on a thin strat type neck. Its allso more expensive. How much does the finger board contribute to tone? Seeing how this is a chat board it would be great to get some opinions going from some seasoned vets. I have read the links about tone woods but they are only general and dont cover the different combinations of wood( body, neck, fingerboard). Thanks, Dave

Thanks a million guys for your quick responding. Later,Dave