jcbakz

hi! in my other post I am finishing my guitar with varnish. it has been almost a month and the varnish is still wet. I use my finger nail and push it against the varnish and it makes a print on the varnish. can you share your techniques on how to dry the varnish fast? it will really help... right now I am letting it dry under the sun. I have actually done this for 1 day, 2 weeks after it has been air dried and it did not bubbled. the varnish kinda smell like enamel. sorry for my english.

well, guess what. iv found a nice place where to dry the body and its behind the fridge i think its called a heat sink. its a bit warm but not a hot just the right temp to dry clothes. its where our maid places some of my underwear to dry lol... the body has been there for 5 days now. i let each side dry every half a day then switch to the other side. pls excuse that blue underwear

alright, thanks guys! this is the first time I have encountered using varnish for guitar finishes. thanks for the advice

I had no luck finding oil for finishing the guitar in our little city. the salesman told me to use this clear gloss varnish instead, its Super Valspar. I did not know anything about it. so I bought 1/4 liter and went to my luthier. the luthier said this is one hell of a varnish, its strong and could last even when it rains or shines lol. but it can take weeks or months for this to dry he sprayed 2 coats, let it dry for 2 weeks and is still a bit wet. so I took the sprayed body home and let it dry inside a container (under the heat of the sun, yeah were my dad keeps his tools) the body has been there for a week now and its still a bit wet (shits, I could not wait months for this ) my question is, this type of varnish, can this be dried under the sun to make things dry fast? if not tell me other options to make this dry fast. here is an info on the valspar: "SUPER VALSPAR GLOSS VARNISH, the varnish that will not turn white that even boiling water will not harm. composed of 50% soya ester gum alkyd resin and 50% petroleum thinner. easy to use on all interior and exterior surfaces."

hey thanks for the link lot of useful info there. I have not found a tru-oil here the only gun store in our city does not have it. hardwares dont know it either... but the salesman recommended me this clear gloss varnish. its "super Valspar" 50% soya easter gum alkyd resin and 50% petroleum thinner. anyone knows how good this is?

I see... well I the ibanez s320 did not have thick layers of paint. it had a thin layer of black paint (weathered black) when I strip it, it was not that hard. so anyways I have managed to strip all the paint out. what would be a good woody look finish for a mahogany? I am thinking of staining the sides of the body and finish with a natural varnish... im also thinking of oiling it then spray a few clear coats... need your inputs guys for a good finish look for mahogany

hello all! Im gonna be stripping the paint on my guitar. its an ibanez s320 with a mahogany body. this is the first guitar that I am gonna be refinishing without a solid paint so its basically just gonna be wood or a bit of wood dye/stain to darken the sides of the body. obviously im noob at this. iv seen in this vid the michael tobias used denatured alcohol to clear up the grains on the wood http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsaPfTyK8_k. I have also read on a site (forgot the site name) that a laquer thinner will do the job. so, after applying the denatured alcohol what do you guys think? apply sanding sealer then clear coating or direct to clear coating?

Hi! Sorry I really dont know where to post this or on this forum xD... I figured that I can get a help on you guys since you know more about woods than those other forums. as what title says... I think its the best wood available here. we dont have those baltic birch/ solid poplar woods. so what do you think? how about plyboards? thanks in advance for the inputs...

ok guys thanks a lot on your inputs. But as far as I have searched the only available rosewood here is the 3mm but since there will be much left when I cut a piece of the rosewood board (4feet by 6feet) for a fretboard is it okay that I will cut 3 pieces at a fretboard size and glue the 3 pieces to make it 9mm (3mm x 3 pieces)? of course it will be sanded off and hoping to get that 1/4" thickness or more of the board.

well not having a good info on these woods its not going to worth it country is Philippines by the way. I found someone selling rosewood and maple costs $50 without the shipping and only 3mm and 5mm thick. the 5mm is $90 board is 4feet by 6feet. how thick should the fretboard be? I guess ill have to gamble on the price...

hey guys! asking for your advices again... We manage to make an ibby neck reverse headstock just like what I was wanting on my other thread so instead of ripping my ibby neck into pieces he made a new neck for me made of mahogany (I left him the neck to have a copy) and he is asking me what wood to placed in the fingerboard. well theres no rosewood, ebony, etc here in and ordering online will $$. in our local we only have: 1. mahogany 2. jack fruit 3. molave 4. narra 5. spruce woods. incase you are wondering why I would want a new fretboard coz I dont want inlays and I dont want to rip again the inlays on my ibby. so which of these woods is good for fretboard? if you say none then ill be forced to order online wich will cost $$$$... im asking you guys coz my friend is not good in making electric guitars coz he only makes acoustic and electric/acoustic differs in wood sustain? oh by the way we have rosewood but in plywood size and thickness and shipping cost is painful .

has someone pulled this off?

tried that one and my gf slapped me in the face ! its not about the playability of the trems im after. I barely use the trem at all. for me the ZPS trem is eye catching and I love the looks of it. I want to see my guitar sexy in my eyes. just for personal satisfaction. Hhhhhuh. I... guess that's allowed? Seems like a lot of time, work, and money (in parts) just to make the bridge of your guitar look prettier. I dont mind spending I have a friend who is a luthier he charges me for repair very cheap... although he makes acoustic guitars but he had repaired all 6 of my solid guitars... and I dont want another guitar too Id rather have my guitar custom made than a 7 string with a lot of common guitars for sale and overpriced...

its not about the playability of the trems im after. I barely use the trem at all. for me the ZPS trem is eye catching and I love the looks of it. I want to see my guitar sexy in my eyes. just for personal satisfaction.

I have an old ibanez rg7420 which I really dont care much and I want to change the trem to an ibanez 7stirng ZPS system. I know theres going to be a lot of work to be done to fit the ZPS coz it wont retrofit the lo-trs cavity of the rg. I dont want edge pro trems. has someone done this and had success?