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xfriendsonfirex

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  1. xfriendsonfirex
    I've been trying to shorten the saddle height screws on a guitar I'm working on, because they are absurdly too long. Is there an easy method to doing this? I was just going to take a dremel to it, but I'm afraid to hold it in a vice, because after the first one, the vice ate up the threads to the point that it won't go back in the saddle. Any suggestions?
  2. xfriendsonfirex
    Ahahaha. This thread has become ridiculous. After regaining steady breathing... Thanks for the suggestions. I've tried just palm muting a little farther from the bridge, but it just doesn't give me that loose chaotic chord I want with heavy distortion. I used a dremel to work the screws down, and it works amazing!
  3. xfriendsonfirex
    They want you to fork out $75 for what appears to be two meat tenderizers taped to scissors (obviously an exaggeration. Haha). StewMac Fret Fitters Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative to widen the fret tang to fit them into larger fret slots? Primarily for refretting, where the old slot winds up being slightly larger. Thanks!
  4. xfriendsonfirex
    Thanks for the help. I will probably try buzzing down the bottom of the screws. I can't shim the neck, because the guitar is a one piece. It's only the bridge that has any resemblance to a Strat. If I found some shorter screws, are they sure to fit? Is the threading used in the saddles a universal size?
  5. xfriendsonfirex
    So, this will probably seem stupid to many of you, but maybe someone can provide me with a solution. I just assembled a guitar with a new Strat-style tremolo bridge, using the six seperate saddles, each using two height screws. However, to get the action low enough, I had to back these screws out a good amount. Now, anytime I palm mute anything, these painful sharp screws are stabbing into the back of my hand! I've encountered this before at the shop I work at, but I have never given it much thought. Is there an easy solution to this? Thanks!
  6. xfriendsonfirex
    Sorry again if this seems stupid, but aren't arcade buttons two conductor switches? The ones I've seen online seem to be. If so, how would one wire that up? If you just ran the hot lead through the switch before the output jack, wouldn't you have to press the switch to close the circuit and get signal?
  7. xfriendsonfirex
    I generally buy my fret wire from LMI, so it comes coiled, and almost always a smaller radius than the fretboard, so I usually don't pre-radius them any more. I wasn't aware that glue should be used though. One was a maple neck, so I will try that. Any particular glue? Also, glue overrun is rather unattractive, so is there any way to prevent this overrun, or clean it up efficiently afterward? Assuming the fret tang is too small for the fret slot, what could I do to widen the tang? I will try using my smaller 7.25" caul first, to get the ends more securely settled, before pushing the center down with the proper 9.5" caul. Thanks again for all your help everyone.
  8. xfriendsonfirex
    I've attempted to refret a couple of cheap Strat necks that I've run across, and I keep having the same problem: the fret ends are popping up everywhere. I've tried installing the frets in a couple of ways, including using a non-bounce hammer to tap them in, and using an arbor press and a radiused caul from StewMac. Does anyone have any tips or pointers, or am I just doing something wrong? Thanks!
  9. xfriendsonfirex
    Sounds like something I would enjoy. Thanks for the help!
  10. xfriendsonfirex
    I guess I could just use the volume for a total kill, or wire in an actual two way switch. I might still go with the arcade thing though for a cool tremolo effect. Do you know if it's a pretty noiseless kill?
  11. xfriendsonfirex
    I apologize if this seems to be a dumb question, but I'm not electronics expert, so here we go: I was wanting to use an arcade button for a kill switch on one of my guitars. Are arcade switches not momentary? Are there ones out there that are toggle style instead? Thanks!
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