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Electric Mulch

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  1. Kind of reminds me of a geode. A shame probably can't stain/paint it to look like one.
  2. I guess it's silly to reply to one's self, but.. Since I suspect some will make these two suggestions, I'll list them and see what people think of them. Dave Hunter's Guitar Amplifier handbook implies it might have some of this as does Melvyn Hiscock's book.
  3. I'd really love to find a good low to mid level book explaining the electrical theory and possibly math on the hows and why of the Electric Guitar and Amps. Seems like all those great "This is SCIENCE!" books they wrote in 50s and 60s to get kids into Science and Electronics just don't exist anymore - or at least they are well hidden. This is for a 16-17 year old, I'd really like something that assumed at least a Freshman in age and wasn't for someone who does integrals for fun. I'm sure there are some decent general books, but something with the focus would keep his focus, as it were. Any suggestions?
  4. Neat stuff there. I was hoping, actually to find some longer stems on the tuners. Maybe I could fake that by using a set with replaceable buttons and putting them on a really long screw with some kind of spacer. The idea is for the tuners to look kinda like the teeth on a skeleton key.
  5. I have a project build I'm sketching out in my head but part of the equation is to use the tuners as part of the visual design. Can anyone point me at an companies that stock tuners beyond the basic three or four button designs everyone seems to have? Thanks.
  6. First Act sold one for a bit last year but seems to have axed the model since I looked last. Guessing it didn't sell well. The only bit they used that wasn't Bamboo was the rosewood fingerboard. EDIT: Perhaps I should read the whole thread before commenting next time.
  7. ...because it shouldn't be necessary with a properly designed body and/or sutiable hardware selection (lightweight tuners) So how many bodies do you build before you develop psychic guitar design powers?
  8. Back to the weigh issue. Does anyone put any type off additional weight in the body when you need to tip the scales? Little thin bits of steel or lead, like they do on Pinewood derby cars? Assuming there was space for them in the cutout, it seems like something you could tweak the body/neck balance with pretty easily. But it also seems like a really obvious idea, so I have to think there's a reason it isn't done.
  9. I could also rotate the shape 180 and cut out some of the "black" around the horns. I don't think it looks as good that way.
  10. Mender has it dead-on. A bass is neck heavy in the first place. If you want it to balance, you'll want the strap button somewhere around the 12th-14th fret. That means a long body horn. And here I was worried about the body being heavy - though looking at it again I can see I was clear mistaken. I could shorten the scale and/or scale up the body a bit. I guess I need to get an idea about materials so I can do some math on weight and where to put the buttons. What would you recommend on wood choices? I wonder if there is any simulation software for that - might be a good project. I thought about that but had assumed headless would be a bit more difficult to do. Between scaring up parts and not a lot of explanation in the reference book I'm using, it seemed to be a bit more advanced for a second - pre-cutting your own stuff - project. Is it not that much different?
  11. Welp, since I can't PM yet, let's do this in the open, since I'm probably not the only one with this type of question and probably needs to be educated as to how wrong some of my ideas are. Here is a rough - I haven't quite gotten far enough to plot it to cad, this is just a scale mockup done in inkscape. It lacks tuner, electronics, etc. placements. http://www.electricmulch.com/Images/HordeGuitar2.png The intent is a full scale bass, using PBass style passive pickups, single tone/volume pair and a side-mounted jack. I have no real opinions about material other than wanting to lean as light as possible and not having a need for a pretty grain since it will be pretty heavily painted. I assume a pocketed neck would be best? I expect some experimenting will be necessary to sort out where best to put the strap locks. So. Vaguely feasible? What would be needed to sort out how difficult it would be to get cut? ( I expect there are more questions I didn't answer, etc. Part of why I thought me a good educational experience to share. )
  12. Probably should have remembered that as a possibility too.
  13. Oddly, I can't. I'm guessing that either I haven't been a member long enough or PMs are reserved for donating members.
  14. Not so short version. I got the bug to build a couple of particular guitar shapes. In a stroke of sanity, I decided it would be best to three step it. 1) Rebuild the electronics in a "junker" - If I can't follow through or get the sound right, I have no business building a full on custom. And should be cheaper by a bit. 2) Build a kit guitar of some type. Same reasoning as 1. 3) Build the thing(s) in my head all from scratch. Having conquered 1 it has occurred to me that there's no reason I can't merge steps 2 and 3 by having someone else do the body and neck - at least for the first of the two ideas in my head. Does anyone out there have a blank cutting service ( headstock on the neck too, I'm guessing ) that's not too insanely priced for this kind of thing?
  15. All Mr. Google tells me is that it is used in violins and hollow bodies. And cricket bats - so I'm guessing its durable enough. But that leads up to the question - which willow wood is that?
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