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Hizodge

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  1. Wow. That turned out fantastic, no joke. the intact carving on the backside really adds to the guitar and your use of the sides to give electric access is a neat idea. now that it is finished, it looks like you built an explorer and got tired with plain backed guitars and did a somewhat abstract African carving on it. Not like you found a slightly abstract African carved piece of wood and went "Hey i bet i can make that into a guitar", haha.
  2. Please tell me you jointed those pieces before gluing... Yeah, I don't have a jointer, but I planed them as flat as possible. I don't know.. you may want to consider cracking that in half and find a workaround to not having a jointer and create yourself a more stable gluing surface. That's just coming from having had a few woodworking projects that weren't a guitar split at a bad edge to edge glue joint. By the way, the 6 looks exciting, hopefully we will see it finished soon.
  3. If it is able to be disassembled and it is aluminum, it can be anodized black.
  4. It's as the title says, If anyone has a Epi LPJ for cheap please let me know, preferably working. It has to be a Junior. I'll check this thread and respond to PM's - Peace
  5. On second thought here, i may just try to work with the existing fretboard. Less of a pain and the damage to what looks like it was some kind of binding is easily rectified. The guitar I'm fixing has a ton of neck damage, so the point where I must use method 2 of Scarf Joints 101 to get the neck correct again. Should I carve in a new head stock, or attempt a method 1 joint and scarf the headstock on, then carve it? I'm a little wary of attempting that and think that just carving one is more of what I can do.
  6. Got it removed and there was some type of added material to the side of the fretboard that made the fretboard an odd width and also made the neck an odd width. This material warped a little under the heat, and I may just order a new fretboard to the custom width i need as the old fretboard had a cutout for a floyd rose nut that had been destroyed prior to me getting the guitar.
  7. Well, I'm currently removing the Schecters fretboard and lightly scoring at the poly as i go along. Luckily, this is less a problem than I had anticipated.
  8. Thanks for the info erik! I had thought that might be the best thing to do, but it never hurts to ask. In response to your question, I must remove the fretboard because the guitar has been annihilated, and to un-nihilate it there's a decent amount of repair work to the neck and possibly truss rod to be done. If everything happens to go smoothly, I'll have a thread up about it.
  9. Well, I read the fretboard removal tutorial and I have a question. I have a Schecter C-1 Hellraiser FR that I need to remove the fretboard from. Upon inspection it seems that the guitars poly finish on the neck is also on the side of the fretboard, the finish also appears slightly thick. If this is the case, would I need to remove the poly finish before removing the fretboard or just proceed ahead with the fretboard as usual? Any help is greatly appreciated. -Hizodge
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