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rcullan

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  1. Hi all, I am building a maple veneered solid body and want the headstock on the neck to match and I want to add my own logo. I was looking over the following tutorial: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/logo.htm Solid body looks as follows: Can I follow the method described in this tutorial? If so what is the proper sequence? My guess is: 1. Glue veneer 2. Stain 3. Sanding Sealer & Level sanding 4. Black burst 5. Apply logo and follow tutorial to finish Is that right? Am I missing anything? Are there any concerns I could possibly be over looking? I would appreciate any help. Thanks
  2. I am in the process of sealing a stained veneer on my guitar and a few areas need drop filling. I have sprayed some into a cup for the first go around and I know I can continue to spray some of the can into a cup, but its going to take several drop fills to get some of these. I'd rather not waste the spray if I do not have to. Now I am using a nitrocellulose sander sealer laquer from Stewmac.com (The ColorTone brand) And I have a bottle of Aero Gloss 71-4 Sanding Sealer that if its compatible would be nice to use instead. And I got the idea from the first time I sprayed it into the cap because it looks just like the Aero Gloss when stirred. Anyone know if I can use this to do the drop filling? I dont want to risk damaging the veneer and have to start over that would suck. Thanks in advance
  3. See pictures on above postings. Already done. It turned out quite well
  4. No, I used an Xacto knife I know that was one issue because I started the knick that caused this crack in the first place. I just didnt anticipate it to grow like this
  5. Okay here is an update, thanks for all of you who replied with some help. This is my first refinishing job and its on a $100 guitar, I got it at a pawn shop over 15 years ago. Literally my first real 6 string I just didnt get it at the five-and-dime. Lol. So needless to say this does not have to be a perfect finish and I will also note I have been planning from the on set of this project to a fairly heavy black burst finish around the edges of the body, enough that between the burst and the pot knob this shouldnt be an issue at the end of the day. So with that said 2 days ago I attempted a repair on a plan I developed with the help on here. I masked off the area and glued in a piece of my maple veneer. I really forced it in deep to seat all the way in. After about an hour of drying I used a razor blade to start trimming it down to the body I removed the masking tape and trimmed with the razor down flush and I am very pleased with how the repair came out. My attempt to stain it to blend was moderately successful. Thanks for the heads up Woodenspoke I was unaware that Titebond II would not stain, I grabbed it because it was the suggested glue in the veneer tutorial on projectguitar.com As for Drak's request to see the body cavity on the reverse side here you go: The wood is fairly thick at the pot hole before the veneer was applied, i'd say around 3/16", the veneer is thin obviously only around .040" thick. The crack is ONLY through the veneer the body wood is still sound. The last thing I will show is my "burst" finish templates. I do not know how exactly how deep of a burst I will need for the overspray to cover so I have cut a series of templates for the body in 1/4" increments, start large and work up if needed. So there is a Plan 'B' in the works for this. So I guess to avoid this on my next project from the feedback would be: #1) Do not use Titebond II #2) Let the veneer dry for 48 hours prior to trimming the veneer? Or should I go longer? Thanks for all the help here guys on this, much appreciated from someone brand new to this Hobby.
  6. I got concentrated stain coloring from Stewmac.com. I mixed it with water according to their directions. Black first (one coat), sanded it down with 320 grain, and put on 3 coats of blue.
  7. I used Titebond II, and no the glue was cured in excess of 24 hours prior to stain application which is the recommendation on the bottle.
  8. I don't think so the glue has been drying for 24+ hours at this point. Though I have heard about using an iron to heat the glue and re-seal it. Anyone tried it before? Would you think it would work in this case?
  9. Hey all, I am taking my first steps into refinishing my first guitar and have hit a roadblock. I stripped the body last week and glued on the veneer over the past 2 or 3 days. Tonight I stained the wood and after a few coats of color a crack developed around the volume know. I am stuck as to where to go from here. It is approx 1/16" wide and 3/4" - 1" long and straight through to the main body wood. Please see the pictures. Should I attempt to glue in a patch? Could it possibly fill in with sanding sealer and clear coating? Suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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