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sdshirtman last won the day on July 31 2017

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About sdshirtman

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  • Birthday 09/11/1969

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  1. Or worth doing right, Either way I agree, this would be the proper way. Maybe you could borrow a router? Even if you fill with epoxy a router and a good pickup template its going to be the correct tool to square this up properly. Some thoughts, Filling cavities in wood is challenging because the filler piece and the piece being filled almost always shrink and expand at slightly different rates over time. This happens even when using the same species of wood with the same grain orientation. The end result is almost always a visible line in your finish where the filler edge is. If you're u
  2. For me it depends on whether or not Im doing binding or not but I almost always cut slots first. No Binding 1) I cut fret slots according to calculations I do in a my drawing program allowing for a few thousandths of an inch for material loss during radius sanding. I do this on a squared fretboard. 2) I cut the board down and taper it close to the final size leaving roughly 1-16th inch on the sides. 3) Install any inlay. 4) Radius the board 5) I make sure the bottom of the board is sanded perfectly flat. I do this by attaching a 15" x 1" x 2" maple down the cen
  3. This is certainly one of the more unique designs I've seen in a while. I'll certainly be watching this thread to see it come together. If I may, I think the control knob markers distract from the design and are unnecessary. Just my 2 cents.
  4. Neutral mahogany filler might highlight the pores. I would suggest adding a few drops of dark brown Transtint dye so the filler will match the rosewood. Doing a test piece is always a good idea if you're doing this for the first time.
  5. Nice job. The first guitar I ever built (which was chronicled here and probably now dead thanks to photo bucket) was made much the same way using the most basic had tools. BTW part six is coming. I've just been busy as all hell.
  6. You can shorten the horn as Scott said or you can graft a piece of wood in there. If you put a dark burst around it you'll never see it.
  7. I wasn't thinking ring as much as I was a contrasting pickup or bobbin cover. I don't think they compliment every build I see them on but I think in this case it would look fantastic.
  8. Wow Scott this came out amazing. Its got a nice warm glow to it. How are you planning on mounting the pickup? This thing seems to be begging for a wood pickup ring or pickup cover.
  9. Nice job Chris. Its a stunner. Thats a crazy smooth finish. Did you use retarder?
  10. Wow that is a mess at the moment. I'd like to picture a hell of a lot of beer to necessitate TWO refrigerators in the garage. Since I suggested this thread I'd better participate. Heres two pano's from this afternoon. When I suggested this I was thinking more of a thread where you could post stuff your currently working on without having to start an entirely unique thread. So along those lines heres a few shots of builds I have going at the moment. Carve top (Out of a piece of 3/8 thick Redwood burl) over black limba with grain matching magnetic cavity covers.
  11. I just finished up a build that called for direct mounted pickups. I wanted these to be adjustable but more importantly I also wanted to preserve the threads in the pickup baseplate tab threads that normally get screwed up or drilled out by using regular wood screws to mount the pickups just in case I ended up pulling them out for any reason. I ended up using 2-56 Brass screw-to-expand inserts along with matching half inch 2-56 thread pan head screws from McMaster-Carr. These simply press into an eight inch pilot hole and are reinforced with a drop of CA glue. These screws are slight
  12. Ya gotta be happy with that finish. Its beautiful. Any possibility on reposting how you cut the matched cavity cover?
  13. Some more good reading from Terry McInturff on this subject. http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=1375407
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