jessejames

Doing a build, I want to use this top, with this neck. What color(s) should I do the top? And what body wood would you use? I have curly black limba, I also have ribbon sapele and flame anegrie. As far as fretboard I am thinking of using the same board of the movingui and trimming a fretboard off it, or I also have ziricote, ebony, and indian rosewood. Any other woods you would use? Which ones would you use of the ones available?

Oh, looks like they got rid of the 2 part system. Glad I have a lot of it.

I use hoodbleach. I think it is the best wood bleach there is. And it isnt outrageous. http://www.hoodfinishing.com/Wood_Toners_Bleaches.html

Sent you a PM

I stored it correctly. It must be a bad can of it. The stuff STILL isn't dry and my sandpaper stars getting loaded up within 3 soft touched sanding strokes. Of course giving it haze marks as a result. Gonna go buy some no load paper, wet sand it instead of dry, and see if I can get results that way.

I used this for the first time, it says one hour dry time. I waited two hours and started sanding, and sandpaper gummed up. I waited 12 more hours, sandpaper gums up. So I sprayed again since it was lacquer to have the lacquer coats melt and remove some of the scratches. New build, bare wood sanded to 320 grit, 1.4mm tip spray gun at 40psi at the gun, was not thinned due to its selling point being "use straight from the can." Have it sitting in a hot room right now to help the sealer dry. How long does it take this stuff to dry? I am on a tight schedule.

How many coats of lacquer or finish do you put on?

AutoCAD is very complex. I quit using it about 10 years ago. I use an old sign software called CASmate for most of my vector design. Sometimes I use ArtCAM to edit vectors. I only use Rhino for 3D modeling, but you can do vector editing in it. CNC zone is the best place to lurk for "how to's". Although it's a very large forum, and can be overwhelming at first. Here's the best way to look at the different softwares: CAD software - Is the software used to draw the outline, and other details of whatever the project is. It is usually exported in a DXF, or EPS "vector" file. Rhino (3D modeling software) - Is the software used to turn the 2D vector artwork into a 3D model like a carve top, or a neck profile. ArtCAM (toolpath generation software) - Takes the 3D, or vector files, and generates a code that makes the selected tool follow the contour of the vector, or 3D model. Mach3 (control software) - Runs the machine. It takes the the G-code file that is generated in a CAM software, and actually tells the machine what to do. Some softwares, like ArtCAM will do everything but machine control. Overall, the learning curve is very steep. The best thing to do is start with vector files (DXF). Learn how to import and edit files...and go from there. Don't take on too much too fast. Read a lot, and ask questions. Unless it's questions such as asking someone you bought a CNC from about setting it up, or where your jigs you were promised are, or where all the files you were promised are. Then you need not ask. I picked up quite a bit on my own by asking actual helpful people, and joining CNC forums. There are guys here VERY handy with CNC. If you have any questions I would be more than glad to help you. The learning curve is pretty steep. First lesson, don't trust someone who you give thousands of dollars to follow up with all their promises, in the end you end up getting blamed for giving up when all you've asked is what you were told to ask.

Wow, really love that black border on the burl, REALLY sets it off nice.

Thanks! I liked the different orientation. Made it pop more to my eyes.

Just had to show off the top carve now that it's finished and that nice mineral streaking on the back. Enhanced the grain with some naptha.

Today I decided to get off my lazy butt and get some work done Also got my prototype board in, looks amazing

I really like that heel transition, very cool.

Damn, that guitar is sweeeeeet! I never buy guitars anymore, so the biggest compliment I can give is that I would buy that guitar, and I would buy that guitar in a heartbeat.

I just had to log in to say this came out gorgeous! Awesome work!

Chris, I have no problem if people read it. I also encourage them to read http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10123&t=41211

Here is my inlay design finally mapped out, hope you all enjoy!

Where did you get those magnets from? And what are the dimensions?

You are one of my favorite builders on here, this guitar should give everyone a reason why.

I sand in 3 thousandths fall off on the last 5 frets when I level the frets.

Since I've owned my own business before and built them from the ground up, I feel comfortable with this side of the business.

Sorry brother, there's a lot more of it hat's been used for bows than for necks. I am not making a dent in anyone's production.

You can get a good used PRS for the same price. They look no better than the SE's. And I own the first SE ever made so I am not knocking the SE's, but for $1400 you can buy a lot better looking guitar than those, I think they will be a huge flop

I will take a pic tomorrow, they make violin bows out of pernambuco, supposed to be a very resonant wood, although very rare and expensive.

Here is the body finish routed on the outside, got the knob holes drilled, routed out the truss rod channel, so far so good, just have to get the fretboard done and get the neck squared away then route the neck pocket.