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About NoQuattro

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  1. Such a contrast between the body and that black background that it looks like a Solidworks 3D rendering. It doesn't even look real.
  2. When drilling holes for ferrules and routing out pickup cavaties, is it better to - A. Drill/rout the body, glue the veneer, then cut the holes/routs into the veneer with an X-acto and Dremel B. Glue the veneer, then do all the routing and drilling I'm looking for minimal chipping and mishaps. It seems to me that you could really do it either way, but I would think that gluing the veneer first would be the best choice and would end up being the cleanest. I'm just concerned about the edges of the veneer around the holes and cavaties.
  3. Looking good! I was always kind of spooked about making a neck from scratch but your pics and results have convinced me to make my next build 100% from scratch instead of buying a neck. The fretwork looks great. I like the documentation of making the neck template and routing it out from the body blank. That's the step I'm at right now and am anxious to get to business. I appreciate the picture showing how you tilted your neck template to get the proper neck angle. I've been pulling my hair out figuring out how to rout a slight angle into the pocket and this simple solution slaps me in the
  4. I'm liking the way this guitar looks. The neck doesn't look like it's overdone at all. Seems to have a good balance of woods. That bubinga has some really cool grain on it too! The fretboard grain is awesome. I'm going to have to build myself a Rhoads one day.
  5. Looks good. I've heard from a lot of guys that the chambered LP has a nice, singing quality to it and good sustain. Some of the LP purists say that a chambered LP is no LP at all. The weight savings are huge, and that's one nice advantage. I'm curious to how it will sound compared to a regular solidbody LP. I haven't played a chambered one yet but I'm anxious to.
  6. Such a difficult question, there are so many great tones out there. Some of my favorites - Randy Rhoads - Flying High Again. That first chord just comes out and hits you in the face. It's totally searing. Great song, killer tone. SRV - Little Wing. The cleans are so crystal clear when he rolls back on the volume, but when the guitar is wide open it has this really lovely, warm tube sound coupled with his amazing playing on that track. David Gilmour - Time. I really like his tone in this solo, sounds violin-like at times. Zakk Wylde - No More Tears. Killer rhythm and lead tone, an
  7. Yeah, I guess I'll just go bolt on for this one. The next one will be a neck through, I would say. I was unaware that Warmoth dipped their necks in any sealer as they advertise them as unfinished - especially the Maple ones. They are pretty adamant about telling you that they'll void your warranty if you leave it raw and just oil it. Undecided what finish, if any, I'll do on the neck.
  8. Chops - the design is a massaged Strat style, one off body. 25.5 scale Warmoth neck, all maple from neck to body to veneer. Doug - I looked at your site and can see how the set necks are definitely different from gluing in a bolt-on. I think I'll just do a bolt-on for this first one with something similar to the all access neck joint. As I do more builds (made the mistake of playing a Tele yesterday...need one now) and gain experience, tips, and tricks, I'll do set necks or neck-thrus. I'll start a build thread soon once I get some more pics and a little further in to the process.
  9. Doug, could you explain what you feel the difference between gluing in a bolt-on neck versus a having a set neck is? I was under the impression that a set neck was, basically, a bolt-on neck that has been permanently glued into place. Is it the tenon size? Presence of some kind of tounge-and-groove? My neck pocket is going to be roughly 3.5" by 2.25" with a depth of .75".
  10. Good tip about supporting the body unglued. Thanks, chops.
  11. Exactly. Geo, the neck tenon is perfectly flat and the sides will be perpendicular. This tenon looks like any other Strat tenon I've seen. I haven't routed the neck pocket yet, as I've just planed the body on both sides. Routing comes next. When gluing this joint, should I go with Titebond or should I use epoxy?
  12. That's the kinda heel I'm after. Fortunately, my neck has no holes drilled in it so the possibilities are endless. It just seems to me that a carefully routed neck pocket, some Titebond, and clamping for 24+ hours would hold just as well as 4 screws. I'm going for aesthetics, here.
  13. I would assume that, when doing a set-neck, you would like to have the tenon extend into the body a reasonable distance, probably at least 4 or 5 inches. The reason I ask is because my pre-made neck is designed to be a bolt in, and if I glue the neck into the neck pocket I fear it might not be strong enough. This is a standard sized Strat neck pocket we're talking about. On the other side of the token, I've thought that if the neck were properly glued it, it would be as strong if not stronger than 4 screws/bolts. I would like to have a sculpted heel, so the body of the guitar would definite
  14. Right. I kinda alluded to that at the end of my post when talking about how it was to be mounted on studs. I guess I'll need to determine the height from the bottom of the bridge to where the string rests in the middle saddles, then add the distance that the posts will create when screwed into the body. I suppose I could drive the mounts down to where the bridge is resting on the body if it needed to be that low. I'll start drawing out the neck to scale like the Ornsby diagram and see what I come up with. As a side question, I see that the Hipshot bridge is radiused. My fretboard has a comp
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