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alteredtunings

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About alteredtunings

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  1. Yes, dental burrs are the best to use for inlaying guitars. My mom is a dental assistant. I have her bring back new burrs for me whenever she can get a chance.
  2. This looks sweet. What kind of material are you going to use?
  3. I think you did the right thing. I hate it when my guitar buzzes. I like to fine tune and adjust the action so it is as low as it can go without buzzing. Your fret buzzing was most likely caused by a slight back-bow in the neck. Raising the bridge might have fixed the fret buzzing, but it would have also raised the action quite a bit. You did the right thing by adjusting the truss rod.
  4. I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but Heritage Guitars out of Kalamazoo, MI have tours. If you are unfamiliar with Heritage Guitars, it is a company that was started out of Gibson leaving MI. When Gibson closed their Kalamazoo plant, some of the workers decided to stay and start their own company. Heritage purchased their machines and everything from Gibson. It's a real cool place and piece of history. Check it out. [url="http://www.heritageguitar.com/history.html"]http://www.heritageguitar.com/history.html[/url]
  5. Essentially, Naptha and lighter fluid are the same thing. I don't know that it really matters whether you use actual naptha or lighter fluid to clean unfinished guitars. It shouldn't matter what brand of lighter fluid you use either. The main thing that you are looking for in any kind of cleaning agent is something that will evaporate quickly, remove oil, and not leave residue. Both naptha and ordinary lighter fluid serve all of these purposes. Personally, I would stay away from acetone cleaners altogether. I know they were suggested, but they can cause all kinds of problems with finish an
  6. It looks like you are off to a good start. I remember the first electric guitar that I built. It was a tele replica. Then I moved on to PRS styled bodies and semi-hollow carved tops. I think it is a good idea to go with a flat top at first. This will get you used to all the construction and different tools. Here are a few tips on your last post Truss rod channel: Don't worry about the channel. It will be easy enough to route in at this point. You will just want to clamp your neck down and put fences down both sides of the neck, so your bit can't stray off course. Then set your bit partia
  7. This is an interesting topic. I have often wondered about small shop builders buying a CNC machine and cutting out Fenders or a popular choice is the Ibanez Jem. It seems like eBay is littered with Jem "replacement bodies" and necks. Most of the necks even go so far as to inlay the Steve Vai vine inlay on the fretboard. Do you think these people could get in trouble for reproducing these? As far as the major companies go, most courts have upheld that companies, like Fender, can't patent or copyright their specific body design because it is too vague. Look at the Peavey case. I guess theor
  8. I agree. You want to stay away from epoxy. It is a pain to work with if you ever have to remove the neck. I also agree with what Chops said about the tenon length. It does not have to be very long to get a good solid neck joint. The main thing that you have to look for is a tight fitting neck pocket. If the neck pocket is tight, your glue will be just as strong as the bolts. Look at some of the companies that have set neck guitars like PRS. Most PRS guitars' tenons are barely longer than the Fender tenon. I would say that you are in good shape as long as your neck pocket is tight. Let us kn
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