guitz

way cool!....that sounds interesting...a sort of custom active on-board electronic setup IN the guitar? the most tantalizing thing about getting mutiple GOOD tones in one guitar, is that you pick up a strat, or tele or guitars with specific unique tones and you hear that nice tone and think.....it's wood, it's got a pickup....my guitar has those, how can I approximate it! ... I'm almost thinking about slapping a metal plate around the bridge humbucker to hear what that would do!

thanks for the reply!....Yea, I should try these out first as I haven't yet installed them , just going over potential wiring ideas...I like trying to play nearly anything, and like a lot of guys, the idea of having 1 guitar that covers typical rock/metal sounds aka bridge humbucker in series is priority 1. The SD trembucker should take care of that nicely as it's based off a Duncan distortion , just F spaced and that is my favorite all time pickup...Next, the IDEA of getting those cool twangy vintagey single coil tele and strat sounds is also something that would be nice to attempt to approximate in one guitar...I know from past experience the single coil sound of a split humbucker will at best sound like a very weak strat tone, but, between the parallel sounds of the coils AND perhaps blending in teeny tiny amounts of neck P90/single coil/humbucer tone MAY give a sound that covers a choice sounding Fender single coil strat , which is easier and a tele bridge sound, which is harder , to get. Just total theory, it probably won't be exact, but if it's close and useable , I'd be happy... I want to keep the two knob look on the guitar also, and I found a schematic that could utilize the push/pull on the volume pot that doubles it up as the tone control(!) in the UP position, so that would free up the 2nd pot spot for the blend knob.....I'm going to spend quite a bit of time experimenting I'm sure and may find that what I thought I wanted doesn't quite cut it or find some other unexpected good things but that's ok.....

have a guitar with a bridge humbucker and a neck p-rail...the idea of blending , say, the parallel bridge humucker sound with the p-rails trifecta of sounds, single coil (blade), P90, and humbucker has me scratching my head how to incorporate the blend pot with the grigsby 4 way switch....I want to keep the wide open series bridge humbucker at position 1 on the switch, with either no blend option or blend the humbucker's parallel sound (is that even possible?) here....position 2, I'm thinking bridge humbucker parallel sound ...position 3 I'm thinking p-rail neck P90 and bridge humbucker, series or parallel....position 4 I'm thinking either p-rail P90 alone or p-rail humbucker alone.....Trying to decide if , how , when and where to wire the blend into each position has officially overloaded my brain lol....the volume pot also has a push/pull switch to give even further, complicated wiring possibilites that I haven't figured out yet....if anyone wants to take a shot at this, I'm all ears...been awhile since I've tackled any from scratch wiring, so I'm rusty on what's possible or not,etc...

this is AWESOME!...have you thought about painting the veneer edge maybe black or white to make it pop out even more?...thanks for this info, I feel like I can make a go of it now...

? ...Don't know what you mean there...I don't think it comes with a finish? ... Unless you ordered your warmoth neck without a finish, it will have a finish. You ARE welcome to use common sense to figure the rest out ack...How did I misunderstand something you said that was so simple? lolol...I get it now,thanks!

? ...Don't know what you mean there...I don't think it comes with a finish? ...

when you say 'use an iron to steam it out'...what's the exact steps process?...here' s what I thought....cut a piece that's slightly larger than the headstock shape , glue on, (maybe this point is where you use the iron??), trim the remaining edge flush and then sand and maybe clear coat it.... thats pretty much the process. some veneers are REALLY brittle, and I suspect bubinga would be one of those. You dont want to just bend it on. You mentioned a bend somewhere, so you can use your iron with a high steam setting to help bend it into position without breaking the wood into a million peices You really do need to finish the veneer to protect it. Either a nice drying oil (easy/cheap) or a good clear coat (not so easy/cheap but better looking imo). gotcha...thanks for the info!

when you say 'use an iron to steam it out'...what's the exact steps process?...here' s what I thought....cut a piece that's slightly larger than the headstock shape , glue on, (maybe this point is where you use the iron??), trim the remaining edge flush and then sand and maybe clear coat it....

So I have a project parts guitar in the works...the Warmoth neck has a locking nut and 13 degree tilt I believe and is typical maple...I thought how snazzy it might be to put an exotic type wood veneer on it, and possibly laser cut the logo, though not so sure about that until I see the results...anyway, is this a doable thing? Doesn't seem it would require too much effort unless there is a curve where it meets the nut...maybe just clamp it firmly all over after gluing it on?....I like the looks of this bugina seen here: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004978/35326/bubinga-waterfall-veneer-3-sq-ft-pack.aspx ...can you visualize the look (maple neck, ebony fretboard)...would it look nice? Thanks!

So I'm ok using HOK colors for the background , sprayed with my airgun...then HOK or auto air water based for airbrush design on top of that....then a compatible clear coat, sprayed from the airgun...( I know these are purportedly difficult for beginners to deal with, but I'm very patient and don't mind trial and error to get it reduced just so to flow freely from the airbrush. The guitar is a cheapie body, so I'm using it as a canvas to learn...something goes awry, just sand back down to primer or wood and do it again )

Ok, so when I get to the point of needing clear coat...what kind do you recommend that works well with HOK stuff?....I'd like to use it with my detail gun as opposed to out of a rattle can, I thinkt the results would be better and more consistent...also, am I right in assuming the clear coat wouldn't need to go on until after the airbrush design or pattern is on? Oh, I also forgot to ask ...when laying down the base coats of color, is it better to use several light coats? Let them completely dry after each pass? Oh yea, what about reducing HOK stuff to work well out of a spray gun?

One basic question I forgot to ask....about how much paint is necessary for a base coat? HOK looks great, but pricey...a pint is 38 bux...I figure that's plenty for a guitar...

Thanks for that info....anything easier is the way for me to go at this point!

Yes, the smoothness after that last coat of primer (B.I.N.) was something I wasn't quite sure about...it LOOKS very smooth, but feels a bit course...I wasn't sure if that was a good thing , I figured a little bit of courseness would help the first layers stick good...I have 1 spot I forgot to put wood filler in, about an 1/8th inch pit in the wood, and it is visible, so I was going to sand off the primer there, and try to get it smooth ,the reprime that area..

Actually, I was going to use my detail (pint) spray gun for the background, not an airbrush that I was going to use after the background Kandy color was set. I'll look into the house of kolor paints....they do have an interesting type that is really made to give different colors to chrome , but it would be interesting to see it on a guitar I think....