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sullus

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  1. I have a japanese hollowbody that I'd like to put some Filtertrons in, and I need to enlarge the existing pickup holes by about 3/8ths of an inch. This is a fully hollow thinline, sort of a poor man's Es-330. I have a jigsaw, but I'm nervous about using it on such a thin, arched top with no support, and I'd like to leave the finish as intact as possible. I have a dremel tool too, and I thought about using it with a sanding band to carefully remove the wood a bit at a time, but I'd like some expert advice before I do anything irreversable. What's the safest way to widen the holes?
  2. I'm planning a semi-hollow project, roughly rickenbacker sized. I already have the neck: Maple/rosewood, 25.5 scale. What I'm looking for is a wide frequency response, without being too harsh or too muddy. Balanced and sort of a blank canvas for the pickups. The most versatile solidbody guitars I've played have been alder, but you almost never see a larger semi-hollow guitar made from it. The most common seems to be maple, a brighter wood, but those guitars tend to have a shorter scale, or humbuckers, or mahogany necks to tame the highs a bit. What if I combine alder with a brighter top to balance the inherent semi-hollow mellowness? Maple? Swamp ash? I've heard good things about spruce as a full spectrum wood. Any thoughts on those, or any other suggestions?
  3. Ok, cool... looks like metal to metal, so I should be ok.
  4. Thanks for the responses guys. Of course you have my permission to pin it, copy it, use it... whatever. I'm just happy it's going to work. Perhellion, with the switch pushed in, it is just a tone pot, only you can select which value capacitor it uses. When the switch is pulled out, it becomes a "notch filter". Instead of low passing everything like a normal tone control, it deletes a narrow band of frequencies from the signal. You can set which frequencies by switching capacitors. It's sort of like a wah wah pedal... actually it's the exact opposite. Wah pedals boost certain frequencies, and the varitone cuts them. Thanks, I'll definitely be doing that if it pops. I might want to do something similar on the kill switch, since I'm using it just for manual tremolo effects, and I don't want it popping when I switch it on and off rapidly. In that case, would I wire the resistor between the input lug and groud lug, or input lug and common lug? I'm using an Allparts Rotary Switch, 6-Position, 4-Pole. Can anyone tell me if it's make before break?
  5. I'm planning the wiring for a jazzmaster that I'm putting together. Just want to make sure I've got everything right before I start soldering. Especially the Varitone circuit... this is my first time using a rotary switch. Pulling out the push/pull should give the "notched" sounds of a true varitone. Pushed in, it acts like a standard tone control, using whichever capacitor is selected on the rotary. Other than that, it's a pretty straighforward 2 pickup into 1 volume setup, with a killswitch.
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