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kmensik last won the day on May 9 2019

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  1. Than you, I really appreciate your appreciation. The wiring: the three upper switches are for the three pickups, up for single coil, ceter is off, down for full humbucker. Lower two switches change phase of B and M pickup. So you can e.g. have neck humbucker + bridge single out of phase. On the back there is a nice tremolo stabiliser from China, a Blackbox workalike.
  2. Well, after the play test the client wanted better access to the 24th fret, so I extended the cutaways by some 6-10mm, so all the fine carving had to be done again. The same for cutaways, he wanted them much deeper, where I lost my patience with the hand tools and reached for an angle grinder with 60 grit flapdisc. It made the concave shapes much easier to do. Then back to scraper and sandpaper. The body edges are almost sharp in the lower part and gradualy get rounder to where the arm and ribcage touch the upper part. Finaly I got to the oil-waxing, where some not perfectly sanded spots appea
  3. Thank you for the replies. The fretboard is plain dark ebony from a luthiers eshop in Slovakia, http://shop.sollerguitars.com/product_info.php/cPath/319_412_381/products_id/148gitarove--drevo/hmatnikove-dosky/eben/language/en/gitarove--drevo/hmatnikove-dosky/eben/eg1.html A friend of mine made the fretboard on a CNC, we made a test piece of some light brown santos (or whatever species it is, it comes from a crate in which exotic hardwood or veneer is being shipped from overseas). The pickups will be Duncan JB Junior. I have 3 bridge pickups branded Framus, hopefully they wi
  4. Hi. After a one year gap I'm building again. It is an all ash guitar with only one centeral mahogany strip and ebony fretboard. My first neck through, sixth build from scratch. Custom ordered from a friend, a loose replica of his trusty old axe made 30 years ago by a czech luthier Stanislav Lysák.
  5. Two years ago I made a trapezoidal neck profile. Nobody liked to play it, nor did I. Cut the edges to a transition between C to medium V profile, adjusted the volute and rounded the heel. Now the shellac finish is not that easy to touch up as it seemed.
  6. Again. You must have a great courage to cover such nice timber in solid colour. I always retract and keep my build natural, for I love nice wood. Go for it, you heve a good eye to pick some awsome hue.
  7. You have a good taste for design. Original shapes and construction details. I maybe liked the natural ash a bit more than the solid color. The white looks perfectly done. Awsome.
  8. Wormy Birch Very wormy birch core wood, baked in kitchen oven a little, carved top and back contour, hard wachsöl finish 25,5" anigre neck (19-21mm thin C profile) with wipe on nitro + sapele fretboard 12-14" radius with hard oil, dual truss rod in heatshrink tube, bone nut 43mm, ebony side dots Framus Duncan Designed TB-6 and WSC HotRail neck pickup, one volume (hand turned sapele knob), recessed jack in strat position (almost collided with the bridge post, that is why nobody does it like this) Ibanez wraparound bridge with custom brass bushings My fifth build fr
  9. Awsome. Like the headstock, finishes, all of it. The story leaves me speechless. You are very brave.
  10. I let the body re-acclimatize for maybe three weeks. Actually the worm holes are completely filled with solid white powder, it is hard to remove. I tried 10Bar compressed air with little success, had to use steel brush to remove the powder from the surface tunnels. Only the few fly-out holed are emty. Nothing will loosen with vibration. BTW it plays like solid wood. And the neck is so nice, comfortable, and no nut buzz even without retainers. The biggest issue was hiding the lenght of pickup cables in the minimal cavities.
  11. I made one quick and dirty fret bender of a broken circular saw. Nice to find the right part in my garbage after a week of thinking how to build one. Frets seated, body oiled, neck wiped with first coat of nitro.
  12. Interresting. Thank you. Maybe if they were a little higher above the body they could act as two friction points instead of the whole front edge of the tremolo scrubbing the body. A little trick similar to Ron Kirn's https://www.strat-talk.com/threads/callaham-floating-trem-sticks.345840/
  13. The two outer holes for the strat style bridge screws. I thought they are metal inserts for the special bridge you have replaced. Now I see they can not be that. Were they like that originaly fit in the factory? Or are they just dowels?
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