Miro

Hmm, they are not bad. I use something similar to finish my guitars, my varnish has one of the polyurethane compounds, so, big shine... for me it gets a mirror surface by applying dense coats that dry in 3 hours (~25°C, no umidity in air). Apply 3 coats, fine sand the final coat and buff it!

ok, thanx and sorry for the bad info! (better get back to the eletronics ) thanx again!

BuildYourGuitar.com has a fret calculator in the PDF format. It's free. It is a must-have for anyone who make their own necks. Hey! It's simple to define scale: it's the distance between the bridge and the capo on the headstock. The frets are there for you to guide yourself when playing. Hey, I have a question: let's say I have a longer scale, and a longer fretboard, how can I add more frets? Like, 26 or 28 (yes, really trebly)? Thanx

Do it yourself... but don't ask me! I never did

Hmmm, I didn't quite understood you, but, you want do route cavities for the pickups so they don't need the pup' guard? I do them with a hand drill, a chisel, and lots of sanding after... (make some holes with the drill and route with the chisel, then sand a lot to smooth out) Make the routes smaller, and progress until the final shape of the pups (so you don't have any holes when finished...) Hope it helps! C ya!

hmm, try StewMac Site, it has a lot of supplies there. Well, if I knew how to make one I would sell them c ya!

Hey! Welcome to the forum!!! I'm 17 too, and I don't have the half of the equipment that you do . Don't folloy me yet, wait for others (like LGM itself or Maiden69) but, I've painted and finished until now two guitars (and I'm making my own now). I go through this: - Sand the body from 80 grit and progress to 320; - Apply a sanding sealer (I brush varnish... medieval huh?! ); - Sand again with a 320 grit; - Apply the paint or burst you want (rattlecan or brush itself...); - Scuff sand with 320 grit paper; - Apply the finishing coats of VARNISH with BRUSH (at least, in Brazil, they are very good! Half polyurethane compound... big shine...); apply 2 to 3 coats a day, and wait two hours between them; - Flat sand with 400 grit; - 3 coats again; - Flat sand with 600 grit; - 3 more coats...; - Flat sand with 800 grit; - Buff with buffing compound (the hard one), can be made by hand (I do...); - Buff with the medium compound (gives a great mirror and shine surface); - If you want even more gloss, buff with the fine compound!; Well, hope it helps you dude! A small note on "flat sand": you should sand until no "shiny spots" are visible! Well, c ya!

I'll post some pics soon... maybe a pictorial how-to...

I prefer no plates. They're useless. If you dont use any, make sure the screws have plenty space to hold on the body!

haha, after two hours looking at a mother-of-pearl inlay on my guitar, trying to figure something cool and cheap, I got this method: You need: - Transparent glue (any that gets hard when dry) - Purple or glitter (I'm from Brazil, I dont know how they call that out there, it's a lot of very small metallic "dots" of any color... most used on children's school work) Do it: - fill the inlay a little with glue and some 'purple' - put glue over the 'purple' and more 'purple' - do it again - wait until it dries (24 hours) and check out In the end, the inlay gets really shiny when light bounces over it. Comments please. C ya!

thanx for the info! hmm, neck-through can be good, but i prefer the set in... yes, i have a way to put a set in on a 1" body... c ya!

ha, never trash your mistakes, specially if it is your first project. Take it as a experience and, when you build another one, look at it and remember its scars... Oh yeah, can someone comment my signature?

hey, talking about small guitars, is it too bad making a body 1" thick? It would save me lots of wood and time... and weight! Thanx in advance!

ok, thanx a lot!

...how much you guys pay for a maple laminate for a top? Thanx

That way it does not affects the strenght of the wood (unless you're using those damn pine woods! argh!) if you have two horns, glue two piece in the direction of each horn together! C ya!

Thanx Southpa! Yes, it's a lyre (damn dictionary!). C ya!

Yes the grain does affect on solid bodies. Depending on the wood you're using, the grain affects the strenght (parallel = stronger...)...

"what?! did he drinked mushroom tea? some pot? or is he crazy?!" that's what you'll think after my question: does anyone know how to build an harp? not the big ones, but those just as the size of a guitar body or smaller (does anyone remember Mime from Asgard's saga, from the Saint Seiya anime???). Anything? Thanx in advance!

Hmm, I don't buy wire for PUP winding on luthiers. Go to any eletronics shop and ask for a #43 wire roll (the gauge do affects the sound, #43 is used by Seymour Duncan). I have a table of various PUPs specifications (like wire gauge, insulation, magnet types and the number of turns on the bobin) if you want just send me a PM! C ya!

i dont know much about truss rods, but i ALWAYS make mines.

yes, it is ok to spray the primer and then the paint without stripping away the old color. I do this all the time and gets very good! You should only take the finish off if you plan on having the natural wood visible somewhere on the body. Yes, I'm money limited as you. Hope it helps, c ya!

hmmm, by what you've said, try pliers. Only if the screw's head got broken... then that's a problem!

ok, since I'm finishing my Les Paul, I thought to start a new project and, looking at my Strato, a new concept came to my mind: the Hellcaster. Well, I'll be starting out soon, in a week maybe. Well, until there, you guys can wonder how will it be c ya!

thanx Mike!