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Ghwar

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  1. Hey all. I recently converted a guitar with active pickups to passive pickups i'm not new at all to swapping pickups or wiring, i'm quite good at soldering and know my way around in there. BUT. For some reason these humbuckers are noisier and hummier then a single coil. this is not right. the bridge pickup sounds pretty muddy at times too, like a neck pickup, but only sometimes, like it's phasing in and out of the muddiness, it's weird. the only thing i can even THINK of it being is the fact that i still have the stereo jack in there (I don't have a spare mono.) But I dunno, I can't see that making a difference. the pots are all wired up right and everything is grounded to each other. what gives? (PS, thanks in advance)
  2. Thank you, although the pickups are gibsons it's still a good diagram, i'll try that tonight. Yep, but I replaced it with the original when I switched back. I don't have any kind of meters or testers, but I will try that approach!. One of my main problems is the only wire I have is some red-sleeved copper wire from radio shack. It works, but having all one color is kind of confusing. Thanks everyone so much!
  3. they were active emg's, but i changed the pots back to the original ones. i think there must be a wire i missed somewhere but to me it looks exactly the same as the diagram i'm looking at. but let me tell ya, it's not easy to find a good diagram for an sg standard..
  4. Hey all, I have a gibson sg standard, which had EMG's in it, recently I decided to rewire the stock pickups in as I liked them a lot better.. I wired it all up, 100% perfect (or so it seemed) and there is no signal whatsoever from either pickup. tapped them both with a screwdriver in every switch position and nothing. no buzzing sound, it doesn't even click or buzz when I flick the switch. but there's no wiring errors that i can see. any ideas what it could be? (and it's not my amp or cables, it's the guitar)
  5. seriously? I don't think I can take a picture of the inside of the tuner that would show any detail, if you really think it'll help, i'll try though
  6. Hey guys, it's me.. again. I've bought a brand new Epiphone Les Paul (Zakk wylde model) and MAN does it scream. i would highly suggest it. BUT. i don't know if this is my fault or what.. but it was all great and i was having a great time with my new axe until i went to change the stock strings. I got about 2 turns into putting the new low E on when the tuner got very stiff and grindy, and the tuning post refused to move afterwards, even when turning the key like a madman.. so, I then noticed that the tuning "post" can just pull out even if just turning the guitar at a slight angle, but on all the other strings they're stuck in there firmly. i've tried everything, screwing it back in, etc. it looks like it scres onto a little post in there but i can't tell. sometimes if i place it in there just right and turn the key, it turns a few millimeters, but it's so loose it just pops out again or stops turning after just a turn or so. is this broken, or do i just need to put it back together in some way i can't figure out? by the way they're grover rotomatics if it helps thanks in advance
  7. OK, this is totally my fault for being a dumbass, but I spilt a little superglue on a guitar that I am very fond of, and it's really ugly looking (not to mention this was a fairly expensive axe) Goo gone didn't do ****.., what can I do to get it off of there? i'm scared to try and simply scrape it off, in case the bond is strong enough to take the paint with it... i think it's the standard polyurethane type of finish.. what you guys think? thanks very much! Admin Edit: Langauge Warning
  8. I would just go for the 250 if youre mixing them like that.
  9. That's really odd, because I told them I wanted them ROUNDED ! I have polished frets myself like 3 times, for free because my mom is a jeweler and she already has the dremel, jeweler's roughe, and buffing wheel needed.. :|
  10. Oh. so if i buy like a can of olympic white, it has a clear coat "built in" so to speak? then why do they sell clear coats seperately?
  11. Actually, I'm pretty sure gibson used 500k in all their guitars, and fender used 250k, which started the whole single coil 250, humbucker 500 rumour. thats what it says on the dimarzio site.. so gibson proly used 500k for their p90's.
  12. Hey, I have 2 strats both with poly finish (i'm actually not sure if they're polyester, or polyurethane, whatever. they're poly something, lol) And I wanna refinish them in nitro, always have wanted to, I like how it looks, and i like how it sounds. ( I think the poly finish is very thick, it kills some of my sustain, and looks quite modern) I don't think I wanna clear coat it, is that neccessary? I want it to look 60's-ish strat Anyway.. is guitar reranch any good? I was thinking of just doing olympic white on both with no clear coat, and maybe a slight reliccing. I really like the look of my friend's original 62' fender strat. it doesnt seem to have a clear coat left on it, it's very thin, sounds good, and the paint itself looks good
  13. Just a question lingering in my mind.. well I have this strat with very flat\worn frets, it was getting quite unplayable and wouldn't intonate. I took it in and asked the shop to crown the frets, which I had been led to believe was the process of rounding the frets out. But the tech said they dont need to be crowned, simply polished. And he pointed at the first 3 frets, which are actually in pretty decent shape, and said it would make them like those ones. So I'm trying to figure out just what polishing frets is.. it can't just be "shining them up" like how I did to my old jacksons with the dremel tool, right? like the tutorials on this site just talk about shining them up and making them look nice.. they can't be charging me 50$ to shine them up, can they?
  14. hey.. maybe man but then the problem of the tip not getting hot enough to melt the solder doesn't make much sense.. however it has a 20 watt mode i can switch to oh, and i can't FIND The old iron, or else I would use it
  15. HMm.. So you mean I should touch the tip of the solder iron onto the peice of metal but not the solder itself? and then let the solder melt thru that connection? I'll try.. and yeah, it's tinned.. kinda.. the tinning won't stick either relaly edit : I tried doing that.. i first managed to get the wire coated in some solder.. then i touched the wire to the metal i want to solder it to, but the tip of the soldering iron just will not melt the solder.. i can hold it there for 10 minutes and it won't melt it and when i use the hotter part of the iron (the shaft) to melt it, it still doesnt work.. if i let the joint cool off and then remove it, it's as if it wasnt joined in the first place.. it just won't stick
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