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Downfall

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  1. Then what would you suggest? Going with a thicker maple top? If I choose a 1/4" quilted maple top and I sand it to my final shape, would it give better results as a first build? My mahogany blank is already 1 3/4" so the thickness bothered me. But I can always sand it down to what I want right.. Also, veneer usually comes in bunch of sheets and it's cheap, so I thought I could try different finishes and techniques before applying it to the guitar.
  2. Sorry if I haven't been clear enough! My english could be better I have ordered a one-piece mahogany body blank and I plan on doing a custom shape. I wanted the quilted maple finish like on this one: Since it's quilted and not a flame maple to do the book-match thing, I wondered if I could use only a one-piece veneer sheet, with the help of the vacuum press. As for the routing , my questions have been answered!
  3. Nice! Never tought of it, I think i will go with the press, looks like it did a fine job! Thanks
  4. Thanks it does clear things up I understand the center thing for the two halves. Can I route cavities (pickups and "circular cavities" for the knobs) after installing the veneer? Because all I've seen was, glueing half of the veneer, cutting with a knife along the side of the pickups, then glue the other side, etc or that was for adding a veneer on an already made guitar? Thanks again
  5. Hello! I'm new to the board and to building guitars... I was wondering why tutorials showed that you had to glue two halves for the veneer and then cut the cavities. Can't we glue a whole a sheet and then route the body normally? Also, I've never manipulated maple veneer. Is it possible to glue it on a body that has a few angles and a archtop? or do I absolutely need a 1/2" maple top? And what about recessed knobs? Routing before / after? Thanks!
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