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Everything posted by mikhailgtrski

  1. Mr. Jehle's Cigar Box - a six-stringer with the coolest headstock overlay ever! Another good month - congratulations to all.
  2. Very nice, Phil. Thanks for sharing. I had given up on a slotting jig due to the less-than-accurate nature of my cheapo Craftsman tablesaw. This concept solves that problem. Mike
  3. Hi, sorry, didn't realize this thread was still active... I've been "away" from this forum - building an amp. Almost done. Steal all you want... It's totally PRS anyway. For the faux binding I masked off both sides, using 1/8" green 3M pinstriping tape at the edges, then sealed it with 1 or 2 lb. shellac, two or three coats (you can also use thinned lacquer). Once it dried, I unmasked it and scraped any areas where the shellac got under the tape. The trick in masking is to not stretch the tape (it will tend to lift) and to rub it down hard to get a good edge seal. Take your tim
  4. FWIW it's a little more brown than the pics show... in the daylight it looks a bit like this tortoise shell PRS, maybe a shade or two darker. Indoors the red seems to show a little more, like this one.
  5. Lacquer the bass, hang it up, then start on the wifey's axe. No patience required.
  6. I started with rattlecan, then switched over after 5 coats when I got my compressor. You can get a good finish with the 'cans, it's just takes more work. Personally, I'd skip the sanding sealer and just spray some light lacquer coats to seal in the dye. That's seven months including experiments, downtime, and Other Things To Do. It really could be done in a week or two, plus a month + for curing. I think that's about the best "3D" pic I have. Perhaps a video clip... or 3D glasses would help? The figure really shifts when you move it in the light.
  7. Four months? More like seven for the finish, eighteen for the whole project. Real Life and Other Things To Do conspire to thwart Progress. (still not 100% - but it's getting regular playing time anyway. )
  8. like this? There's no black at all... tobacco brown, cherry red, lemon yellow. The recipe is here in my tortoise shell thread. Depending on the light it either looks more reddish or more brown, kind of a cool effect. Mike
  9. It's not black, but maybe these process pics will give you an idea... initial dye: sandback then some passes of diluted brown, red, and yellow... finished product My experience has been that you have to sand it back much lighter than you'd expect. The dye in the figure darkens up quite a bit once you get the top coats and lacquer on it. No idea about an oil finish, but my gut says that it won't look nearly as good on a dyed figured top compared to a glossy clearcoat. Hope that helps. Mike
  10. Nice. No, Ridgid isn't a K-Mart el cheapo brand. They've been in business a long time manufacturing industrial pipe threading equipment, etc. I think most of their newer power tools are made in China now, but the ones I've looked at seem to be very solid, good quality. Mike
  11. You could always do the surgical tubing trick if you need to raise them a bit. That's what I do with direct-mounted single coils.
  12. The soapbar style mounts with a couple of screws through the pickup itself, in between the pole pieces.
  13. Congratulations, that's pretty cool. Now, when you get Alex Lifeson to play one of your guitars, well, then I will definitely have to vote for it.
  14. Looks minty-green to me also... of course I've got the same slight colo(u)rblind thing going on. I love that LP! Cerb's bass is very nice too. Another month of fine entries all around - congratulations to all! Mike
  15. Depends on how much enhancement you want. Shellac or some type of oil finish (compatible with your clearcoat) would give you a more subtle look. Or you could stain it amber, sand back, then do a final pass of light amber. Yes, test on scrap first.
  16. Almost voted for the CBG, but WezV's was just too nicely done. Another month of excellent entries... kudos and congratulations all around! Mike
  17. I'd leave 1/4" (6mm?) at the edge - that's pretty standard.
  18. Sure, but on a guitar with good sustain the note will lose less volume over a given period of time. For example, you play a note and hold it for 4 seconds. Let's assume the initial volume of the note is 80dB. On a guitar with good sustain, the note might lose, say, 2dB after 4 seconds, whereas one with less sustain might lose 6dB in the same 4 seconds. Mike
  19. Don't clean your spray gun anywhere in the vicinity of your freshly sprayed neck. Murphy's Law says that the odds of accidentally squirting the neck with lacquer thinner are directly proportional to the number of coats needed to finish it.
  20. It was a tough call between Setch and Godin... A little dye action on the top might have tipped it in Setch's favor, but that wenge beast with the nice fingerboard binding (and great photography) made me vote for it... despite the potato/milk dud vibe. Congratulations to all the entrants this month - absolutely top notch work all around! Mike
  21. So you sand/buff the epoxy instead of the shell? I've never heard of any expert inlay artists doing it that way. Doesn't seem like you'd get the best appearance out of the shell, unless you're polishing it before you inlay it. Polished shell under lacquer looks nice, but rough shell under epoxy? I'd hazard a guess that epoxy won't buff out nearly as nice as shell, either. If you like it, great. But I wouldn't recommend that method. My $0.02 Mike
  22. Another month with some excellent entries! Thankfully not so many this time. I love that maple top and the color on the SG! The Scott French build is top notch - really nice grain in that back wood... is there supposed to be a truss rod cover? But my vote goes to SwedishLuthier's hip Longhorn... a great take on an old classic... love that bass clef inlay Mike
  23. Hehehe - all in good fun ... that pic was in today's newspaper and I just couldn't resist teasing our beloved expatriate, Monsieur PickGuardian
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