Jera Woden

im currently working a a templet a guitar body im going to make out of corian. im using an old harmony body for the body design but i want to change it from a front control cavity to a rear and change the p90 style pickup in the neck position to a humbucker closer to the bridge. are there certain nodes i need to place the pickup in (like the ones for harmonics) or can i just find the best place for the poles to line up with the strings?

i have been shopping around for new pickups for my ivar johnson lp copy (its all maple it sounds good but weighs a ton) and i cant seem to decide what i really want. mostly i listen to and play classic rock 80s rock blues jazz and some of the classic metal. bands like ac/dc black crows Gn'r queensryche ugly kid joe bb king etc..... what im looking fr is a high output pickup with very good mids but not lacking in highs or lows. with a very good clean sound and good light distortion/ overdrive sound that is still capable of doing some heavy distortion/ metal sounds. what i have so far is a few combos. 490r - 498t classic lp setup 496r - 498t should be a bit hotter 496r - 500t from what ive been reading this is more of a metal setup. i have been looking only at bibsons cause its an lp copy and the dimarzios i have now suck bad for what i play i have looked at the 57 classics series and the burstbucker series but nither seem to be better than the cheaper ones. so please help me and tell me why youre saying i should get any pick ups you recomend.

im not a pro but i did something with my bass that worked but took about 3 weeks. my way might damage your guitar but it works if your not too concered about value. i took three blocks of wood 2x4s, a long 2x4, and a huge c-clamp (10 inch i think). i put the neck in the blocks and centered it around where the most extream part of the bend was. every day i sprayed the fingerboard down heavily (dripping) with warm water in a spray bottle. the id give it about an hour and tighen up the c clamp no more than a quarter turn a day until i had a small forward bend. then i let it sit for 2 days with no water and no tightening before i removed the clamps. this makes the wood in the fingerboard swell and ass you tighten up it helps things go back right. after your done get some lemon oil or mineral oil (what ever you want to use) and clean ith up and make sure the neck gets all it can take (it will be very dry after all that water). i could be wrong and it hasnt been that long so i dont know if the bow will come back and i dont know if this is even anygood for a guitar opr bass but it worked for me.

looks cool but how does it sound and play?

i havnt soldered anything yet but i mocked it up with some aligator clips and a hemostat to check it and it seems to work pretty good. im sorry it sounded like i was mocking you in my last reply but i wasnt. the second explanition really hit a light bulb for me and i see what i did wrong the first few times i tried to make the switch work. the first try i just cut the lead from the volume pot to the jack and soldered it up with out checking what poles on the switch did what. this is the first time ive done anything other than change pickups so im very prone to mistakes. thanks again and i understand now

thanks alot

ive checked your diagram againsit my wiring and looked at everything very close but i dont think i fully understand whats going on. im using an allparts 6 pole mini on/on switch as my killswitch. where do i ground it to on the switch its self? how is wiring the hot lead on the jack to lug 2 on the vol pot and the hot from the switch also to lug two going to cut the circuit? im very new at this wiring stuff so please try to explain it in a bit more detail

ok i need to figure out how to rewire this harness. i have a pic of the orignal i drew in case i forgot how it went. but heres the problem im not doing in orignal. i want just a single p-90 style pickup a volume pot and a mini (kill) switch. what ive guess is ground from pickup to outside lug on volume pot to back of pot to jack. right? then hot lead from pup to lug 1 on the mini switch. from lug two of the mini to outsiide lug on the vol pot. hot lead from the middle lug on the pot to the hot lug on jack. ground lead from ground lug on the jack to the bottom of the bridge. did i miss anything? is there somethig else in need to wire in to it?

thanks

i have a poplar body im going to start finishing soon and i need some tips on what not to do (and what i should do). i need to do a final sand and fill in some old screw holes before i really get started. but what i have so far is a poplar body with a few dings in it that has a lot of greens in the wood color. what my plan is is to stain it in a drak walnut and finish the outside of the body with a dark brown kind of choclate color. is there aything i can do to the wood before i stain it to ensure that every single ding dent and paper thin scratch wont show up? (my test board looks like it got ran over after i sanded it with 320 grit sand paper.) also after i stain it before i laqur it what should i do? thanks

im still looking into what all pedals to get. yes a big muff a jackhammer and a grunge. not all at the same time. thats three very different sounds without having to rewire any thing. let me say this loud and clear right now for all to hear I DO NOT LIKE DIGITAL PROCESSORS OR SIMULATED MULTIEFFECT PEDALS. that said the j-station is there to only give me some cab and head models i cant afford. i want a very good old tube amp id sell my left leg for one. the j-station gives me a chace to hear some sounds of them with out shelling $1000 on an old marshall set up. plus i can un plug the amp and listen to my self as loud as i want through head phones. still alot of thinking to do before i get this set up.

that bridge is pretty close but mine looks like it has a place for a bolt on term bar. as for the jap trash- yes they both are. both made in japan. i havnt identified the second one yet but the bridge on the ebay one is the basic type ill need for this one. it looks like a tuneomatic but instead of studs it has a bar with two screws on the bottom.(i dont have the bridge for this guitar.) the coral right now carries a vintage value from $500 to $1500 (maybe not mine) but i could make and ok chunk of change from a free guitar. im not sure if i want to sell it yet cause it has a very fat sounding set up. coral silvertone samik kay harmony teisco and a bunch of others did a lot of copies of gibsons and fenders from the 50's till the brand wars in the late 70's and most of them are danelectro subbrands from japan.

sorry i didnt realize they would be that big. i resized them.

these are a few pics of my next few projects. one i know is a coral hornet with three lipstick style pickups and the worst bridge ive ever seen. the second is a guitar i just got today at a flea market for $15 and i think(not too sure) is a silvertone/harmony. lets see some pics. coral body coral head unknown body unknown head the coral its self needs a new finsih and just about every screw hole filled and redrilled. i was thinging about getting a bridge convert but the guy in the guitar shop told me to go to hell and not mess with it. the coral also has a 2 in chunk chipped out of the neck on the bottom side near the 15th fret. (i think some wood puttty and some love will fix that.) the other one needs a new bridge and one new pot to be sure. the pickup unknown pickup im not sure if it works i havent jacked in yet. i also would like to know if any one could tell me what the name of this type of bridge is. there is one like the one i need on a silvertone guitar on ebay here thanks for looking and comming im sure more will come.

im into old metal (iron maiden old metallica anthrax queensryche) and hard rock and classic rock (i hate the slipknot/linkin park/ system of a down crap). i have a marshal jack hammer and i love to over drive and i hardly ever turn the gain up past about 3/4s of full. i dont have all the pedals yet and im going to be getting them soon but heres what im after. guitar ---> wah ---> big muff pi ----> jackhammer ----> DoD grunge -----> a chorus (not sure which one yet) -----> delay (havent found one i really like)---> pedal tuner (hope fully with stero output) ----> j-station (for amp and cab models its great) ----> eq----> volume pedal ----> amp now can you guys tell me if i should switch some things around? take some things off? or just scrap the setup idea and start over with some fat chewed off? also im thinking about buying a godlyke power supply and daisy chaining everything together.

i have a body im stripping theold paint off of and im about done. what i need to know is if i dont use primer what do i use to fill/seal the wood before i try to do the custom paint? in cause you wondering im thinkink about lightly air brushing a few colors on to it with a lot of wood grain showing throught.

im building a pedalboard to keep things clean. i have a few effects pedals and some multieffect suff but im not sure of everything i need to make a great gear setup and how to plug everything in so it will sound great. first do i need a compressor? if so where do i put it? effects like a wah or distortion pedal how do i route these into it with out causeing the other effects to get lost? im looking into a pedal tuner a volume pedal and a 10 band eq do i really need them and where do they go in the circuit? also how do you guys route these things? what order should i put all of these things in? thanks in advance

is it possible to put nickle pickup covers (gibson style covered humbucker) over just a standard zebra pickup? can i take off the metal pickup covers and put on zebra covers?

one of the guys at my local shop said that i can convert my lp copy from a bolt on neck to a set neck. is this even possible? what he said to do is to take the axe apart and sand both the inside of the neck joint and the part of the neck that sits in it. make sure all the finish is off and take some epoxy (forget which one he said to use) and glue it up. he said i would probable need to keep the plate and the screws but it would work and sound like a set neck. does any one else know anything about this? whats the exact process i should use? and will it really help the sound of my axe? what glue epoxy should i use?

at my localguitar shop there is a custom built '57 V (sry no pic) selling for $950. its an awesome guitar that looks great and sounds great. the only problem i can see with it is that its neck (set) is a bit too think to me. now what i want to know is if there is anyone around my area that knows who made it or knows where i should look to try and find out. the owner of the shop said he is in berkely but didnt give a name. any ideas?

no i hate ibanez now for the fact that nearly every guitar/bass ive picked up by them in the last few years the action has been way too high. second ive been looking around for a new here there guitar (one that i dont mind a few dings from alot of moving around) and all i seem to find are basswood bodies and strat shapes. as for hating them for something i did, i rose the action of the open strings less than half a milimeter.so basicly all i did was shim up their nut. i think it was gregp who said the axe i now own has a long history of neck problems (i paid around 150 for it Gio series) and that the neck its self isnt made to any great quality. we will see what happenes.

thanks for all the opinions. i dont think ill be altering the neck heel at this point simply cause the neck or the frets or something is all funky now that i changed the nut. every fret on ever string buzzes and i guess i did a crapping job of matching the two nuts for a bit higher string height on the one. so right now it looks like some frets are first them either a new body or find a way to put on a tune-o-matic. I HATE IBANEZ NOW

i have a standard cheap strat ive had for years and am thinking about making into a better playing and sounding guitar. it has the standard F you neck heel (the big block shape makes upper frets a pain to play right). now what i wondering is if i take it down and shape it into some thing thhat feels better and is a lot nicer to play is that going weaken the neck joint (bolt on) too much? also reshaping the lower horn on a strat is it a good idea? will it affect my tone much? i think the body is basswood if anyone wants to know.

it would be way easier just to go buy a new chunk of nicely figured wood but i relly likemthe figureing on this peice. it has nice tight coloring and if i put it together just right and got out the aire brush i could make it look like fire is inside the wood (air prush very light trans reds yellows and oranges) but im taking all suggestions right now. as for building a V ive had this v for about 5 years i got it at a pawn shop for $50 and it came with a V shaped hard shelled case. and my next project which is the one i stared first is rebuilding a coral hornet but its made of poplar and new hard ware is a pain to get for it.

i have a sheet of ply wood not sure what its made out of but its very nice. right now its about about 1/2 in think. what i want to do is sperate the top layers (the part that is very nicly figured and has tons of great looks ) and use it as a top either for my strat or a V im rebuilding (yeah i know every one hates Vs) so how can i sperate this peice of wood? do i saw it or can i just take it apart gentle?