Jump to content

demonx

Veteran Member
  • Content Count

    1,803
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    63

demonx last won the day on April 30 2016

demonx had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

207 Excellent

About demonx

  • Rank
    GOTM Multiple Winner
  • Birthday 03/26/1978

Profile Information

  • Location
    Victoria, Australia
  • Interests
    Guitars and Muscle Cars

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. A few images from the build video in the previous post:
  2. It’s been quite a while since I’ve posted here, busy running the guitar business and keeping its social media pages up to date, however I’m hoping this video will somewhat make up for my lack of attendance! This video is a detailed compilation of mobile phone footage showing the Graveyard II guitar evolve from timber blanks to a completed guitar, including the pickup making and final setup! I hope you enjoy! https://youtu.be/trSIZqlzkBA
  3. I have a spindle and variable speed controller that I can pre program in my CAM. No issues with Mach, just took a while to get the ratios right so that the spindle was spinning at the speed mach thinks it is, however that was done on the controller from memory and not mach. No issues with changing spindle speed my remote control though mach or anything that I can think of. It's been a few years now. I cannot remember what brand the controller is off the top of my head. My spindle can be run air or water. Air cooling is useless in the Aussie summer, we tried that first, even the wat
  4. @verhoevenc Same as the other thread, it's been a while since I logged in. I use mostly upcut endmills. Sizing and so forth will simply depend on what cuts you're making, for example I've got a upcut endmills ranging from 0.5mm to 12.7mm, if I'm hacking out large profiles it's the larger bits like the 12.7mm, if I'm cutting smaller edges it might be a 4mm or I might use a 6.35mm for the truss slot. But these sizes wont mean anything to you as you'll be using what suits your hardware and truss slots etc. One thing I will say that is important is use a brand
  5. @verhoevenc Sorry, I don't log in as much as I used to, so I haven't seen this till now. Ok... I do my own sanding these days, I got rid of the lackies a couple years ago and now it's just me. It's just so much easier to do everything myself and not have to worry about it being stuffed up by other people. Spending my time training other people or looking over my shoulder watching other people. So, I am now the sanding guy again. Unfortunately as you have found out, it takes time. Simple as that. You will also find some timbers sand so much faster than others. For example
  6. There are several on my property which are a couple hundred years old, both vertical and horizontal The Vertical ones are all filled in, the horizontal ones are not however have unknown things living in them which is enough to keep me away. I've seen the mozzies at the entrance fresh animal tracks and no thanks. It's the mozzies I'm more afraid of than the four legged inhabitants!
  7. So do it with sandpaper and a radius block instead of a router.
  8. Sounds like a story I heard from a guy I know who hired a ex PRS inlay guy to do inlay for him, resume stated he had done inlays for years at PRS. Problem was when he was hired to work at the small handmade guitar workshop assisting with inlays, he didn't know how to, he had only ever taken parts from pile A and put them into parts from pile B. Funny you mention "Fast Guitars" as all these supposed "luthiers" popping up really irk me, starting Facebook pages and websites and selling to people who know no better, presenting themselves as real luthiers who are selling b
  9. Considering when I had an existing workshop for building electric guitars, yet had to spend another couple thousand to buy acoustic specific jigs etc, I don't think your budget is in the realm of reality. Benders, forms, binding jig all on their own are above you total budget without even combing the cost of them, add postage, then add sound hole cutters and other hand tools and templates and finishing tools, you haven't even purchased timber yet, which again is above your budget.
  10. Yep. Kits are certainly not a new concept, but they are a nice little cash cow for when things are quiet, I was "ghost building" neckthru blanks for a Melbourne guy for years, doing the joinery but leaving the body and heel square, carving the neck and doing fret installation and leaving a headstock paddle. He then routes and sands, cuts his shapes and finishes, puts him name on them, no one the wiser. It is however something I've stopped as my own brand grows I'm taking on more of my own orders these days and don't have time. In Perry's case it's another market to tap
  11. So they're charging $17 per decal? You guys will be very happy with what i plan on offering next year then! My current decal stash I expect to run out mid 2017 and I will be investing in the machinery I need to make my own. There will be a trial and error period, testing media to see how it reacts with 2k paints etc, but I plan to sell decals by the A4 sheet, not the individual decal. So it'll work out WAY cheaper than what you're paying. It'll work out cheaper than what I was paying before the place I was getting them done by turned to shit. Th
  12. Thanks guys, and Prostheta, even though the Rosette may seem simple, it was a real pain. The two I did before looked much more complex and were a lot easier!
  13. Latest build video - I hope you like it: https://youtu.be/nCFoT68IdJs
  14. It is probably a combination of what you said and probably more to the point something soft will "help" itself in where something hard wont have the same amount of give. For example it'd be a LOT easier to shove a 10mm crayon into a 10mm hole than a 10mm drill bit. (To use an exaggerated example)
  15. I had the large model of this exact router. When it was new, it was great. After a couple of years the thing was a piece of crap. It virtually shakes itself apart. Speed controller needs to be held by tape so it doesn't roll around. Base falls apart. Micro adjustment moves. Base jams up making it hard to drop and change cutting bits. The WORSE thing about the whole router, worse than above is the collet that is supplied with it is a cheap piece of junk and after not very long, once it's lost it's newness it stops holding the router bit. For example, one neck pocket I wa
×
×
  • Create New...