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About jsullysix

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  1. It prevents rust, penetrates the threads and lubricates for the life of the rod, lastly it stops glue from sticking to them as well. I use old pickup potting wax (straight paraffin) in a small crock pot. It is a bit tricky because the wax won't flow until the steel is hot so you have to start by soaking the bolt end for about 15 minutes then flip them and soak the other end. Then one by one you have to take a heat gun and heat the middle of the rods until the wax flows down the rod. If the rod doesn't get hot enough the wax doesn't flow and stick and is a messy waste of time. Tricky
  2. Awesome, as usual. Thought the truss rod wax bath was an interesting idea. Is that to prevent any possibility of glue/epoxy getting into the threads? What type of wax do you use? Sully
  3. New: GJ2; I've played a bunch of their guitars over the past couple of years as they've grown, and they're flat out fantastic. Either an Arete or a Zora model would be cool. Would also like an Ormsby multiscale some day. One of the Ken Parker archtops wouldn't be too bad, either. Used: Any Jackson Rhoads made before 1985 with sharks, ebony, binding, and no freekin' Kahler. The old Rhoads models have something special about them; I've never picked up one that I wanted to put down. The Phil Collen Ibanez Destroyer was pretty sweet, but the Kahler would be a dealbreaker for me. Sully
  4. a less intrusive way to get ebony to shine (without spraying clear or epoxy, etc on int) is to get the board nice and clean, then hit it with minwax paste wax. apply per instructions, and buff the bejeezus out of it with a 6" orbital hand buffer (available for about $20 at home depot). ebony buffs up really nicely, and you won't have to put clear or anything else on it. it'll still feel like a nice and smooth wood fretboard, but it'll shine like it's been clear coated. that's what i use on the backs of unfinished necks, and it gives the wood a nice protection, but retains the feel of an unf
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