cSuttle

Well, I got creative again and started another new "Limited Edition" truss rod cover line - THE PHONIX. The initial feedback has been awsome. It's out on ebay now, item number 7345865272. If you like it (even if you don't plan to bid on it) let me know.

That's awsome! I hope you're going to make something great out of it.

I have solid carbide .025 but they're expensive. Let me know if you need some. I use them sparingly. I have some .022 end mills, but they're near useless, and only used in an emergency. The drills are more stable than the end mills. And for wood, at that size, it really doesn't matter what the flute is like. So I use drills. On wood they operate exactly the same as end mills. But for PCB they would be useless.

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Hmmm . . . I don't care if there are expensive, I just need them. Where did you buy they from. Also, the drill idea is interesting, but that is a very small drill too. Do you have a good supplier of those?

Thanks Frank

Yeah, Novi is probably at least 2 hrs from me.

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If you're ever in the area, give me call.

Where do you get your materials?

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I get material from a number of places. My shell comes from offshore as has to be ordered in large quanitites. The recon stone comes from Masecraft. A good place to buy smaller amounts of shell or stone is www.rescuepearl.com - tell them Cliff sent you.

Very cool!  I love your stuff.

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I understand why the reply feature wasn't working. I post too fast.

Thanks! Hopefully you have been by the web-site and seen all the other stuff.

The question was "Well where is it already? "

Sorry the reply feature doesn't seem to be working. Hmmm . . .

Not sure I understand the question. Where is what?

All I could think of this where is the ebay ad. It's already out there and has been for about 5 days. Item # 7342759440.

If that wasn't the question, could you be more specific?

I have another new design coming out new week. The Phonix.

Wow, thats killer! What is the green material?

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It's recon Jade. Two types "Oriental" and "Imperial". The Imperial is the darker material in the head.

I do very high end inlay work. I use 1/32" bits now, but I have times when I could improve the product if I had even smaller bits yet. Plus I would like a bit to clear out fret slots of any excess material that may get in there from the inlay process. The standard fret slot size is .024". I'm always looking for the next thing.

To answer the other question, I'm in Novi, MI. I bit of a curse from you.

I'm looking for very small router bit that can stand up to a little punishment. I looking for like .024" possible as small as .0156". Anybody know of a good supplier for suck an item?

Just put my new design out on eBay. Thought you guys might like to see it.

Not sure if he is accepting order right now, but you might what to try Ken Loper

www.KenLoperGuitars.com

Good guy, good builder, can make anything you can dream up from shapes to woods to electronics. He building one for me later in the year and I'm really picky.

I know this line of questions is OT so if you would rather PM me that's fine.  I just wondered if the dxf files you get from corel draw are mostly made of splines and if so do you notice any "faceting" in your tool paths?  Or, are the facets too small to be of bother?

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I usually extrapolate my curves into line segment anyway. It seems to create better tool paths. I use .002 and if you look at the tcover above you see I don't have any problems with facets.

Hey I just wondered what software you are using to get your artwork to cad to cam?  I'm building a guitar on the cnc at my work, so I find your work very interesting.

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Is this my buddy Cliff Suttle?

All the pieces seem to match up (no inlay pun intended).

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Yep, it's me.

I had a client that purchased one of my Dragon Mountain limited edition tcovers who suggest I pop in here. The Dragon Mountain covers are made for PRS guitars, but he had put it on a Warmoth neck and it worked great. He thought there would be many people here who would like my stuff.

I thought if I would help others do their inlay either with product or advice, this would be a cool place to hand out. Haven't been stopping in here too much yet, but it become my frequent all the time.

Oh, if your curious, I have a Dragon Mountain tcover on eBay right now. Here's a pic.

These are incredible!

Would you be able to do something like taking a low end Gibson neck with the cheapy gold logo and make it into a pearl logo, then add the center(headstock) inlay, and neck inlays?

I inlay headstocks all the time. However most of them are unfinished. The inlay process destroys the finish around the inlay, so the finish has to be repair or replaced. This raises the cost of the job quite a bit. On a lower cost Gibson, probably not worth it. Now if you were already refinishing the guitar yourself, that would be a perfit time to do that and it would cost too much.

you are in the right section..no worries.

but i did have to delete your sig.no links to businesses allowed

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Oh Sorry, didn't know. On most of the other forums I'm on it's the other way around. Thanks for taking care of that.

Excellent work dude! Do you do more "common" stuff like a simple set of sharkfin inlays as well? Or a Ibanez Jem vine? Where can I see prices?

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Yeah, I can make those. I've done v-block before, traps, all sorts of things. Dream it up and I can make it happen. How about shark fins with shark hole inside them????

Hi,

I haven't been a forum member too long, so I hope this isn't over stepping my boundary here. If it is, mods please feel free to delete this.

That being said, if anyone needs inlays cut to install yourself, or fretboard/headstock/body/truss rod covers inlay done for the project they are working on, check out my web-site. I think you'll like.

Shark Inlay

My work is done to cam machine precision with shell tollerances to 0.0001" and route hole tollerances to .005"

Even if your not looking for this, just drop into the site for the eye candy.

Hi All,

My last custom truss rod cover on eBay was purchase by a man building his own Warmoth guitar. The t-cover was designed for a Paul Reed Smith, but he said that he had no problem fitting it to a Warmoth neck. So, you might want to check out these auctions for yourself. Currently I have three cover on sale, the item numbers are:

7326994638 7326996303 and 7326992141

Here is a sample of what I'm talking about. This is the first item number

Agreed. You can't really shine up plastic.

I do A LOT of inlay and actually it can be done either way.

Most of the time doing the inlay on a flat board and then radiusing the board is the way go. Not alway possible, like if you are inlaying an already made neck by like Warmoth or somebody, but this approach work well. Leaving the inlay just slightly under the surface of the board by .01 can help as well, limited blow through.

However, sometimes having a preradiused board is actually referable. This situation occurs when you have a complex inlay made from a lot of pieces. The pieces of the inlay can be bend over the radius allowing more material to be in the wood. This lowers the chance of blow through. Plus, if you are using Paua or other Abalam type material is also lowers the change of shell feathering. Abalam is made a series of very thin shell sheets bound together with epoxy. If the inlay is done flat and then radius you can sometimes get a ridged effect on the shell like looking at the edge of plywood. It still looks ok, but it could look better. This effect does not occur with Mother of Pearl of other solid shells. The picture below was don't on a radiused board.

However, the board does need to be reradiused after the inlay is sanded flat. I found the easiest way to do this is with a long radiused sanding block.

Hope this helped.