Jorge Fernandez

I'm going to give their sealer / filler a try on a walnut project I'm finishing up. I've had great luck with just Tru Oil and wet sanding, but I'm anxious to see if their sealer / filler is easier or faster. With any luck, I should be starting the finish in a few days. Great! I'm very interested. I'm in the sanding stage. Then I'll do some test on scrap wood but any information is welcome. I'll looking for your posts

Yeap! That would be great!. Please take some pics of the process to know the way to go, thanks !

I had a maple/walnut/maple sandwich on the neck that I posted earlier in the thread. The walnut filled just fine with only tru oil, given enough coats. What about the Sealer&Filler from Birchwood Casey? I'm planning using TruOil in my mahogany guitar project and I was thinking if this filler and sealer is a good idea for this open grained wood instead of applying lot of coats of TruOil? It's my first TruOil finish process an I'm not very confident

Yes, they are the official dealers here in Spain, but their prices are so high! DP158 100 euros !! when 1euro=$1.44 !! Then I'll try to find other suppliers and take advantage from the global economy WezV, this ebay store are no longer selling outside US. http://cgi.ebay.com/Dimarzio-DP159FBC-Evol...oQQcmdZViewItem Another supplier ? Thanks

Hi, I'm trying to get some dimarzio evolution pickups (DP158F and DP159F) online without success! All the online dealers are not selling outside US (I'm from Spain, Europe). Do you know any online site where I can buy it? I've read dimarzio forbid their delares to sell outside US, why? Thanks

Hi, I'm planning a neck-tru mahogany guitar. I have a mahogany block and I want to avoid wasting wood and I have thought this distribution for the laminated neck: Is it a good idea? I was wondering if is it warping-proof? The wings (from the same lumber block) can be glued with the fibers in opossite to compensate on the body side but not the neck. The real pic is: ('alas' stands for wings, and 'mastil' is neck in spanish) and the laminated neck: Any comment is welcome, and ideas for some other distribution for a next project because the mahogany block from the pic is the half of a larger chunck. Thanks!

Thanks GregP and Maiden! I think I'll give it a try to the direct mounting method!

Thanks Greg! Could you give me more info or some link about the direct-mount pickup strategy? How long the screws have to be?

Hi, I like the look of your pickups! Could you explain this method to avoid using pickup's rings that you can see in the pic the body with pickups installed, please? I would like to do something similar but I don't know if you need a body thickness to avoid screwing the pickup screws to the guitar back side, etc. Thanks!

Hi, Anybody has a plan for an Ibanez jem headstock? Where can i find it? I have several but with differences in the shape. Anybody can give me the maximum width and height of a rectangle surrounding all the headstock? I know the nuth width is 43mm. Thanks

(Sorry!, I've moved it to the Tech Area. Admin, could you delete it?) Hi, Anybody has a plan for an Ibanez jem headstock? Where can i find it? I have several but with differences in the shape. Anybody can give me the maximum width and height of a rectangle surrounding all the headstock? I know the nuth width is 43mm. Thanks

Hi, I'm going to use the "Smith All Wood Epoxy" from LMII to glue an ebony fingerboard with a mahogany neck. In the "instructions for use" you can read: "Apply to both surfaces to be glued. On dense woods which will absorb essentially none of the glue, assembly maybe done immediately. On softer woods or beveled lap joints where end grain is being glued, there may be considerable absorption into the wood. It maybe necessary to let the separate pieces sit, wetted, for much as an hour or more to ensure that one does not have a glue-starved joint after assembly and cure." Then my questions are, mahogany is considered dense or soft? I think it's soft, then I've to leave some time the glue applied onto the mahogany, then apply it onto the ebony and immediately clamp the pieces together. Isn't it? How did you do it? Any advice is welcome before I make a mistake Thanks!

Ohh, thanks ryanb! Now I've understand the Erikbojerik idea!! I think I'll try it!

Well, I think that I have no explain my question very well. I want to know if there is a way to install the pickups without mounting rings. In my last project I did this set up: I could do it because it was a top glued onto the body: The body: and the backside of the top: For this project I'm doing a neck-thru guitar with a one-piece body and the previous setup is not possible. I don't like to route in the backside of the body and I was wondering if there is some way to avoid the mounting rings, routing the pickup ears and the rest of the cavity to put the screws and springs the more hidden as possible. Any idea is welcome

Hi, I would like to know how the people desing the pickup cavities to avoid using mounting rings. I don't like it, but I know it's a good choice to have the pickup screws accesible. My project is a neck-tru guitar with two wings but no top. The rear route pickups is not an option. Are there some solutions? Any link is welcome. Thanks!