Jump to content

Jorge Fernandez

Members
  • Posts

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jorge Fernandez

  1. I'm going to give their sealer / filler a try on a walnut project I'm finishing up. I've had great luck with just Tru Oil and wet sanding, but I'm anxious to see if their sealer / filler is easier or faster. With any luck, I should be starting the finish in a few days. Great! I'm very interested. I'm in the sanding stage. Then I'll do some test on scrap wood but any information is welcome. I'll looking for your posts
  2. Yeap! That would be great!. Please take some pics of the process to know the way to go, thanks !
  3. I had a maple/walnut/maple sandwich on the neck that I posted earlier in the thread. The walnut filled just fine with only tru oil, given enough coats. What about the Sealer&Filler from Birchwood Casey? I'm planning using TruOil in my mahogany guitar project and I was thinking if this filler and sealer is a good idea for this open grained wood instead of applying lot of coats of TruOil? It's my first TruOil finish process an I'm not very confident
  4. Yes, they are the official dealers here in Spain, but their prices are so high! DP158 100 euros !! when 1euro=$1.44 !! Then I'll try to find other suppliers and take advantage from the global economy WezV, this ebay store are no longer selling outside US. http://cgi.ebay.com/Dimarzio-DP159FBC-Evol...oQQcmdZViewItem Another supplier ? Thanks
  5. Hi, I'm trying to get some dimarzio evolution pickups (DP158F and DP159F) online without success! All the online dealers are not selling outside US (I'm from Spain, Europe). Do you know any online site where I can buy it? I've read dimarzio forbid their delares to sell outside US, why? Thanks
  6. Hi, I'm planning a neck-tru mahogany guitar. I have a mahogany block and I want to avoid wasting wood and I have thought this distribution for the laminated neck: Is it a good idea? I was wondering if is it warping-proof? The wings (from the same lumber block) can be glued with the fibers in opossite to compensate on the body side but not the neck. The real pic is: ('alas' stands for wings, and 'mastil' is neck in spanish) and the laminated neck: Any comment is welcome, and ideas for some other distribution for a next project because the mahogany block from the pic is the half of a larger chunck. Thanks!
  7. Thanks GregP and Maiden! I think I'll give it a try to the direct mounting method!
  8. Thanks Greg! Could you give me more info or some link about the direct-mount pickup strategy? How long the screws have to be?
  9. Hi, I like the look of your pickups! Could you explain this method to avoid using pickup's rings that you can see in the pic the body with pickups installed, please? I would like to do something similar but I don't know if you need a body thickness to avoid screwing the pickup screws to the guitar back side, etc. Thanks!
  10. Hi, Anybody has a plan for an Ibanez jem headstock? Where can i find it? I have several but with differences in the shape. Anybody can give me the maximum width and height of a rectangle surrounding all the headstock? I know the nuth width is 43mm. Thanks
  11. (Sorry!, I've moved it to the Tech Area. Admin, could you delete it?) Hi, Anybody has a plan for an Ibanez jem headstock? Where can i find it? I have several but with differences in the shape. Anybody can give me the maximum width and height of a rectangle surrounding all the headstock? I know the nuth width is 43mm. Thanks
  12. Hi, I'm going to use the "Smith All Wood Epoxy" from LMII to glue an ebony fingerboard with a mahogany neck. In the "instructions for use" you can read: "Apply to both surfaces to be glued. On dense woods which will absorb essentially none of the glue, assembly maybe done immediately. On softer woods or beveled lap joints where end grain is being glued, there may be considerable absorption into the wood. It maybe necessary to let the separate pieces sit, wetted, for much as an hour or more to ensure that one does not have a glue-starved joint after assembly and cure." Then my questions are, mahogany is considered dense or soft? I think it's soft, then I've to leave some time the glue applied onto the mahogany, then apply it onto the ebony and immediately clamp the pieces together. Isn't it? How did you do it? Any advice is welcome before I make a mistake Thanks!
  13. Ohh, thanks ryanb! Now I've understand the Erikbojerik idea!! I think I'll try it!
  14. Well, I think that I have no explain my question very well. I want to know if there is a way to install the pickups without mounting rings. In my last project I did this set up: I could do it because it was a top glued onto the body: The body: and the backside of the top: For this project I'm doing a neck-thru guitar with a one-piece body and the previous setup is not possible. I don't like to route in the backside of the body and I was wondering if there is some way to avoid the mounting rings, routing the pickup ears and the rest of the cavity to put the screws and springs the more hidden as possible. Any idea is welcome
  15. Hi, I would like to know how the people desing the pickup cavities to avoid using mounting rings. I don't like it, but I know it's a good choice to have the pickup screws accesible. My project is a neck-tru guitar with two wings but no top. The rear route pickups is not an option. Are there some solutions? Any link is welcome. Thanks!
  16. Hey I recognise that pic Very cool you used my method... it looks very slick!! Here is the guitar I made 10 years ago Hi Alex! You're right I saw your post and I thought that I liked that look! The cad pics are yours. I think I sent your some PM with some questions... Thanks! Jorge
  17. Thanks for the replies! Ian_ did you seal and fill the wood before applying the tru-oil? Maybe, this way you get a more uniform finish. For what I've understand you sanded it all to begin again and then did you realized that you get the uniform finish you were looking for? Do you have any pic ?? Thanks
  18. Hi, For my fisrt oil finishing project I will go with TruOil after reading a lot of topics in this forum. But I have some questions. How many TruOil is usually needed to finish a guitar? I'm going to buy some 8oz bottles and I would like to know how many bottles may I buy. It's a mahogany guitar and maybe I'll use the BIRCHWOOD CASEY sealer and filler too if I don't like to see the pores. With one 3oz bottle wiil be ok or more is needed? Thanks!
  19. Well, I thought that the epoxy used later to glue the fretboard will glue too the CFs to their surrounding wood and to the fretboard, all in one step, to avoid scrapping the excess of epoxy used to glue the CF before glueing the fretboard. Thanks
  20. Sorry for repeating (no english speaking), but, do you glue on the carbon fibers and later, with the CF dry, you glue the fingerboard over it? I'm asking because I've routed the carbon fibers channels and they are very adjusted to the CF size and I don't know if glueing it will add something. I thought that I only will need to put the CF and the truss rod on place and glue the fingerboard over it. Thanks
  21. Hi John, Can I ask for absolute values for your installation notes? (see http://www.wammiworld.com/Installation_guide.html) I'm planning a 25.5" scale length guitar. The bridge is a kahler 7330 fixed bridge. I've adjusted the saddles height to be 10:00 o'clock, then I have 16mm from body top to the roller channel. The maximmum height I can get is 18mm before the screw fall below the saddle. When you speak about 10:30 oclock what's the height from body top to roller? Another mesure I'm interested is from the 10A point. "10A) Slightly loosen the phillips on top of the middle of each saddle. Now pull out each saddle fork in and out noting the minimum and maximum extension of the fork. Once you have determined that, slide all the forks 2/3rds of the way equally and secure them by lightly retightening the Phillips screws (right)" Can you give some value? To the end of the metal piece with the phillip screw to the center of the roller I've 14mm. I'm going to install the bridge myself an I would like to know the maximum info that I can get!. What about the neck angle? What's your experience? Thanks!
  22. Sorry, I reply myself: use the search button! http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=32218
  23. Hi, I'm designing the neck for my next project. I'm going to use a hot rod (stewmac #0982) with two carbon fiber (stewmac #4403) following the typical distribution because I want a thin neck like the ibanez jem neck. I would like to know a good distribution of the three items if the neck is 43mm on the nut and 57mm at the fretboard end. Some advise for the distance from the center of the neck or truss rod to the carbon fiber? Do you align the beginning of the carbon fibers with the nut, or some space behind it, maybe at fret 3? Thanks, Jorge
  24. A two laminated mahogany neck could be considered as a multilaminated neck ? I'm planning building a thin neck with two mahogany strips, a LMII double action rod and CF reinforcements. The headstock will be 13 degrees. Any link to know how the strips has to be distributed in a multilaminated neck to maximize the strenght and stability? Thanks!
  25. Hi, Russ, I'm interested routing a slot in the fingerboard to reduce the thickness of the neck. How thick has to be the fingerboard ? and the deep of the channel? what do you recommend. Is there any link to some neck built this way? Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...