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Man ,I love that its exactly like i was thinking im definitly goin with the 3/4" carve, should be banging with the recurve and everthying.

Ok i worked out the neck angle ( thanks Mattia) , now i have a question about the carve. Would a 3/4" carve be ok aesthectically, I mean a real les paul has a 1/2" carve and I really like the look of those but when i did my carve I thought the carve would look so much more detailed and obvious if it was just a little bit deeper, so who likes the deeper or shallow carve? can i mget some pictures of les pauls with deeper carves? Oh yer i was wondering how they put the angle in an SG is it in the neck tenon or carved into the body?

Hi I am halfway through building my les paul, and would like to know were to start carving the neck angle. By this I mean the carve is 1/2'' thick so do I start the neck angle at the top of the blank or at the bottom of the carve. I have cut the shape out and marked the angle my bridge requires starting at the top but the line on top only ends up like 8cm's away from the edge, shorter then the pocket on my strat, so this does not seem right because on setchs les paul tutorial this line ends up finishing about where the neck pickup is so is this because the angle is started at the bottom of the blank or some other reason? also i have heard this angle can be incorparated into the neck tenon is this true/ advisable?

Great work I especially like the one piece maple body. Man I just cant get over how nice maple is, especially this piece before the finish (although I like the finish also), personally I dont like flamed maple all that much and I actually think that the natural grain of normal maple lookes more like a flame than what everyone refers to as flame. It sucks about the one piece neck not working out because I love one piece necks. I have a question is the headstock on your tele slightly different to a normal tele? oh yer and don't take this offensivly Southpa cause its a (sort of) good thing but you look a lot like one of the fellas from cheech and chong LOL.

Yeah thats what i was thinking. So I guess I will find out how fender truss rods work, and make one and yes it is the two rods beside each other not the double action one. Another option would be to protect the trussrod and fill the gap with synthetic putty but that wouldn't be my ideal solution because I like the contrasting colours of the wood and although you can get different coloured fillers It wouldnt be the same. I think what your talking about with the single rod is the one how it is bent at 90 degrees on one end and i could understand who you could see a problem using one with a truss rod, but fender uses both a single rod and a skunk stripe so there must be some way to do it.

Hey I am making a mini strat and anyways, I was shaping the neck today (a 1 piece with a skunk stripe) and by accident I found out that the skunk stripe was really thin like a veneer , because the double rod trussrod was so big, when i pressed on the skunk stripe it just collapsed .so what i want to know is how i can fix this problem, there is maybe 1 or 2 mm of space left, maybe a one rod truss rod? but I have no clue how they work or how to fit one into a strat neck. Oh also i cant route any deeper because it would go into the fretboard.

A bit off topic, but my squier is this years (well i bought it this year new) and it is a bullet 'made in china" and it is a solid body not plywood and the pickups are potted and the pickup covers cant be removed because of the wax. so mabye squier is improving their standards.

This is probably gonna not help but it is also called plane or platanus and the actual tree looks like this

Hey for my les paul that im gonna make i want to know if i can use sycamore for a neck is it dense enough? according to what i found sycamore is 590 kg/m3, compared to honduras mahogany's 545kg/m3 and thats what les pauls use, so is there any unforseen problems I might face, I will have to get pics and start it im f***ing sick of all this questions about the stupidist stuff. of course none of my questions are stupid

Oh year the smartwoods les pauls right how could I forget? Yer why the hell shouldn't I do it, exactly its my guitar I should like the sound. Frank I live in Australia so I wont be using lacewood I will be using tasmanian oak for the cap it is quite bright so with the dark WRC it should make an intersting tone. And crafty I think I will just go with a regular TOM and humbuckers but I will still have some left over for acoustic soundboards. oh yer I was reading a website that sould fender acoustics and this one fender had meranti sides and back, meranti is readily available here in oz so thats what I will use for the back and sides.

Really Drak would that telly happen to be the 30 day one? So you think I should give it a shot? I mean it used to be a door so I would much rather have a les paul (or even a telly) than an old door. And to be perfectly honest I have never heard a les paul live so I am very unwary of the sound so as long as it sounds anything like a guitar (any guitar) I would be happy, personally I own a strat (alright its a squier) and am unsure on how I like its sound but I dout the cedar would be bright being so soft. but anyway, thanks for the advice. Also Mattia I would have enough left over for several sound boards because it is over 2 inches thick, so that would be cool also.

Hey, I just received enough red cedar to make at least two solidbody and necks, but what i want to know is what would it sound like with a denser wood as a cap on a les paul? Am I wasting my time trying to make a les paul or should I try to make a different body design or am I completly wasting my time. By the way this wood is at least 100 years old.

Hey I want a Mustang and am thinking of buying everything off Warmoth, are the parts Accurate in relation to the originals? i.e will my mustang be the same as a fender mustang? Its going to cost me about $500 is there any where that I could get the parts cheaper? or could someone build me one cheaper? Sorry to hijack the thread but I really want a standard competition fender but, wont bother with warmoth if the parts arnt the same as fender parts. Oh and they did stop making mustangs didn't they? when was the latest reissue?

How thick is the leather? It needs to be about 1/8th of an inch for it to stiffen properly. My dad makes things out of leather for a living so maybe i could ask him more about it but that thickness becomes pretty hard if you boil it or wet it then put it in the oven. Im not sure a coat would have the thickness, so you could glue it on thin plastic as other people have mentioned.

there supposed to be a "not" in there between the might and suit.

Hey Tone monkey, This might suit you as I think that book would probably be copyright, but at the forum I use to be a member of we used to scan books and convert them into PDF's. So just an idea but I think it would be benificial to all the mebers on this forum, but of course its entirely up to you, but at least you wouldn't have to worry about your book being stolen/destroyed.

Hey I have some information about Australian timbers: First of all you said you had access to victorian ash (tasmanian oak), this is one of the best Australian tonewoods there are. If you have read the current issue of Australian guitar (with John butler on the front) You will notice in the review ,section there is a guitar made by jim dyson called the jim dyson pro and standard, it is made completly out of victorian ash except (and this surprised me) the fretboard which is made out of perspex. This guitar costs $950 so i doubt they would go to the trouble of building such an expensive guitar out of a so-so tonewood. Also if you read the feed back some one else had the exact same problem and they replied with a detailed response. I suggest you buy this magazine, it sugests you try Gilet guitars of sydney. Also there are a few other known Australian tonewoods such as: Bunya Tasmanian blackwood Queensland maple mulga cooktown ironwood And i would have to recommend Jarrah for fretboards it is one of the best woods for it. Also you research Maton guitars in Australia they make there guitars from "alternate" Australian timbers. Anyway good luck and i hope that long post was at least a little bit helpful.

Hi, I didnt want to clutter up the forum by starting a new thread, so would any one be kind enough to tell me the dimensions of a gibson headstock, like how long and how wide at the widest point? I know the scale is 24.75 inches but I can not find any where what the headstock dimensions are it is really annoying me. I think it might be like 18cm ??? I dont know sombody please tell me

Actually i meant it has very few knots, as in not many, knots are very bad .I made a quick strat style neck up and it seems very suitable. I will post pics of the neck later.

Hi, I would like to know if I can used Australian cypress (not a true cypress) for necks and such. I have the perfect sized boards for necks. It has a bright bell like tap tone. and i gathered some info about iton the net: Cypress has a seasoned density of approximately 700 kg/cu.m, compared to the other two at 550 kg/cu.m [4]. It therefore has earned the title of the world's hardest coniferous timber. mine has few knots. it is well seasoned and has not warped one bit. I think it will be alright i have made a few practice necks out of it and the have not warped either but i want to know if i can use it for the real thing. I know its a softwood but i noticed hynsu made some spectacular yellow pine guitars so i figured this might be alright. thanks in advance Mitch

Here is a real progress pic of my guitar http://photobucket.com/albums/a147/ilovech...nt=8cb2e9a4.jpg please dont be too harsh.

Hey this is my progress on my very first guitar. I am enojying building this guitar and love it because I made it, but I feel ashamed to show it here, because of the many flaws so yer sorry for the eyesore but I still like it and am proud i did so well I am only 16 and have little woodworking experience, sorry no pic for now because i have to wait for photobucket to activate my account sorry but for now this is pratically it. Just thought id add some specs Body:Tasmanian oak Neck:tasmainian oak, jarrah fretboard:jarrah and also some sassy bass veneer pickups and harware unknown and all other hardware i made So this is gonna be a pretty patriotic guitar YER come on Aussie maybe i should paint the Australian flag on it.

Hello there I know i am new to this forum so hello to everyone. I am building my first Electric guitar based on the fender stratocastor and I would like to know which way to orientate my single rod truss rod. I mean there is a small rod coming of the main rod at a 90 degree angle I have routed the truss rod slot in the back of the neck (the rounded over side) and i would like to know which way the small rod has to face the fingerboard or the skunk stripe?? Thankyou in advance.