Bingo328

I got some hardware from them before and was definately not impressed. I got neck mounting screws with the ferules so I didn't need a neck plate. First of all the screws were about 2.5 inches long so I couldn't even use them. I ordered black and thats what I got.....spraypainted on. And they were used. The black paint was worn off part of the screw head and the threads, and they were all covered in sawdust. When I called him on it he denied it, said it wasn't him that filled the order, and said they would replace them if I sent them back at my expense and payed shipping for the new parts. Needless to say I'm not going back.

Gobbo I see your a fan of punk music too. As far as best lyrics I agree with Bad Religion and NOFX. I also love Thrice and Strung Out. I've also been suprised about the improvement of AFI's lyrics. Other bands I always thought had good lyrics were Megadeth, Dead Kennedys and Dropkick Murphys and best funny lyrics have to be the Vandals and Tenacious D (they did the "tribute" song someone mentioned earlier) As for the worst lyrics I've ever heard I would have to say Jethro Tull and most grunge bands. Especially Nirvana, Sonic youth, some smashing pumpkins. But the absolute worst lyrics award would have to go to Bush.

I also use the little two armed magnifiying man. I also bought a bag of the little alligator (or crocodile) clips for about 2 dollars. I use these to hold the wire to the little loop thing on the pots. It helped my soldering look 100% better than before.

Wow Wes that guitar is gorgeous. I love the way that lam neck looks, espesially the accent piece up by the scarf joint. If you dont mind me asking did you glue that piece onto the seperate headstock piece and the glue the entire thing onto the neck. Also is that piece kind of wedge shaped getting smaller towards the FB or does it just look that way once the profile is shaped. The only problem with that guitar is that it's not left-handed, I couldn't play it.

FWIW Warmoth has several tuner varieties in black (Gotoh, Schaller, Planet waves). I bought their schaller locking tuners and their pretty decent. Just have to remember loosen the locker on the back. I also have a set of Grover rotomatics non-locking which works well. Grover makes a locking tuner with some sort of cam that doesn't require a thumb screw to lock. I also hear good things about the planet waves if your willing to shell out the extra money.

I thought about that, but my last name is Smith. Not exactly exciting and already been used anyway.

O.k. thanks for your help everyone. The headstock is a 3 and 3 similar to a Les Paul. It's a quilted maple overlay, no color. The body is similar to a les paul or the single cut PRS. It is wine red also similar to the Les Paul color. It is a r-n-r guitar. Any more comments to help out?

Thanks for the correction, it's been a while since the "rudiments of music" days. The memory isn't what it used to be.

There are no such thing as minor notes, just minor chords and scales. The chords are typically comprised of the root note (first note of the scale) then a third above that and then a fourth above the second note. (I think thats right if I remember correctly.) The minor scale just refers to the spacing between the whole and half steps. A major scale is (w=whole, h=half) w-w-h-w-w-w-h and a minor scale is w-h-w-w-h-w-w As for the G-C-F thing. You don't have to change scale positions along with the chord changes as long as you can find some common ground that sounds good over all of them. One thing I found helpfull was to record a simple rythem track like G-C-F over and over for as long as you can stand it. You can do this on any cheap recorder that has an external michrophone. Play back your tape and just noodle out a solo over top of it. You'll soon develop an ear for what sounds right and wrong. Remember, if you hit a wrong note your only one half step away from a right one. Take that note and either bend it, slide up or down one fret, or use your trem if you have one. Then just practice, practice, practice.

Weeze, Thanks for fixing the pic for me. Thanks for your opinions too. Serioulsy, everyone tell me what you think, it's better to get it straight up than to put a Shi**y logo on my guitar. The star in #5 is just an old school type of star that I seem to be fond of, a popular tatoo among the punk rock scene. Nothing personal but I can't stand anything Billy Corgan has done. The last one I know has too much contrast, it is just rough, just wondering if anyone liked the odd lettering and layout. The ones that are hard to read are because of the pic itself. Does anyone have any other name suggestions. Maybe something that means left or lefthanded or opposite in another language, I know there's lots of biligual folks here.

www.freepicturehosting.com I'm nearing completion of my first full project and I'm having lots of trouble trying to make a logo I'm happy with. Let me know which ones if any you guys like. S.K.S. are my initials but I'm not even sold on going with that for a name. Seems like it's been done alot already. I'm a lefty so I was also thinking of some cool name that means lefthanded or opposite or something similar. Also is there anyone out there who's able to print waterslide decals or willing to part with a couple sheets of waterslide paper. Thanks for your help fellas Edit: sorry about the goofy way to link pics. Just copy the url and paste it above. It should work. BTW, does anyone know the easier way to post pics right on this page.

Larry Robinson has a how to inlay type book with lots of full color pages of his work. I got it for X-mas, its definately worth checking out.

I believe in the tutorial that brian sugested re-routing the swimming pool to match your new wood as close as possilbe. That way less filler or wood is used.

The radius of the tailpiece shouldn't matter as long as the strings don't cross the tune o matic at too harsh of an angle. Gotoh t-o-m also uses the 12" radius btw. I think thats the standard for most of em.

Dremel has a cataloge (sp?) that you can order direct from. The prices are slightly cheaper than the hardware stores around me. I obtained my cataloge by going to the store and looking at a new dremel and the sales guy just gave it to me. I don't know if you can get them online though.

I've found gorilla glue glue at A.C. Moore and Michaels craft stores. Back by the wood stuff.

Got mine too. Extra wide for an offset body design. They look great, thanks Steve!

In my recent refinishing project I picked up a can of Keen strip foam in the aerosol can. I used it to strip paint off the headstock of an 85 Gibson with TV yellow finish. Most of the guitar was sanded down but I wanted to use stripper on the headstock to keep the stamped serial number and made in the USA tag. This clean strip stuff seemed to work really well. First off its a thick foam so it will stick to vertical surfaces. It took one application to remove the lacquer, and a second application to take the paint, then I hit it a third time just to clean it a little more thouroughly. Just spray it and wait about 10 minutes and then hit with a plastic scaper. It seemed mild compared to other stippers which is probably a good thing around glue joints (like the pieces gibson scabbed on the sides of my headstock). I used it on both maple and ebony with no discoloration to either. Just wanted to pass the info. along that I think this is a good product for small stripping jobs.

Drak those cocobolo tops are amazing! I recently acquired some cocbolo scraps that I was hoping to make some top design out of. Mine is not near that bright, mostly brown with minimal yellow streaking, does it vary that much from piece to piece or have you lightened it somehow? Also I've heard horror stories about how bad it is to work with, ie. toxic sanding dust, pain in the butt to glue. Can you lend any advice on any aspect of working with it. Please reply in newbie language, use crayon drawings if you must.

I had this same problem on a epi les paul before. I figured it was just cheap parts casting but I guess I'm not the only one. I just used a steel file and lightly filed where the strings break over the saddle. It cleared up my problem almost completely. I also went up one gauge of strings, don't know if that helped also.

Being a lefty I've done the stap repositioning thing many times when converting a right-handed guitar. Try moving the rear button up an inch or two depending on how neck-heavy it is. You may also need to move the front button a little closer to the neck around the curve. If you have a strong finish or one you don't care about try temporarily adjusting the way the guitar hangs by using the 1" duct tape or something similar to get your final placement. It's better than just trial and error drilling a bunch of new button holes.

The Martin Koch guitar making book suggests drawing out your string spacing at the nut and then your string spacing at the bridge at the correct scale length apart. In your case 25.01". You can connect the lines of both E strings and measure the distance across your last fret. In your case 18.75" down from the nut. Offset the width you just found by 1/4" (1/8" on each side) and this will give you enough extra FBon the sides to make sure your strings don't fall off when bending notes. These can go narrower or wider based on personal preferance but that's his basic formula.

If you throw up a bid right at the end and it still doesn't beat the one placed before you're basically screwed and don't have a chance to rebid. Just because the bid is at 25$ and you bid 26.50$ at the last second doesn't mean your golden. The other guy could have went up to 30$ and no matter what you bid he'll beat you by the minmum raise. My advice, bid up to the max amount you willing to spend, go to bed and check it again after the auction is over. This also prevents overbidding on something just to beat out the prick that keeps raising your bid. Whether people bid as soon as an auction starts or right when it ends they will still go for about the same amount when it's all said and done. You can find some good deals on ebay but you will rarely get a great steal unless your the only one bidding on something. These are just my opinions based off past experiences, not the ebay gospel

1. In addition to looping your lead through your strap. Loop the end out of you amp around your handle on top. If your lead is long enough then run it down behind your amp and underneath the casters. It will keep it flat on the floor and reduce the risk of pullout 2. If your prone to dropping picks, invest in Gorilla snot. A little on your thumb and index finger will do wonders. 3. If you have a guitar with a pickguard. Take out one screw and you'll have enough of a gap to store 2 or 3 picks. Works especially good with strats. 4. Use a combination bike chain run through the handles of all guitar and bass cases together that you bring to a gig, it will greatly reduce the risk of someone making off with just a single one. Also stenciling your name on cases, cabs, etc make theivery a little more obvious. 5. If a cymbol is developing a crack drill a small hole (approx. 1/8") directly at the end of the crack. If done cleanly it will usually prevent the crack from spreading any farther.

I have a body I want to do binding around. It's on a gibson invader, kindof like a les paul special with a small forearm cut. I was just wondering how to get the router to follow the cut when it dips down on the sides. Sorry I don't have pics for better clarity. Does anyone have any experience with this.