komodo

It can happen but as most would agree, it has to be a perfect situation. A grain elevator explosion would be a similar type of thing but that is on a very large scale. it does happen quite a bit though. I wouldn't worry about it unless you got into a large commercial system. For home shop use, something like the Dust Gorilla from Oneida is spankin'. KOMODO

Howdy, Does anyone have the StewMac spray basics and sunburt vids that they dont want anymore? For sale or trade? Also the fretting video? Let me know. Thanks! KOMODO

Howdy, I'm trying to get a certain look, but not sure on the wood choice for it. I am going for a tobacco burst or violin like burst. Really less of a burst and more of a deep satiny brown leather worn sort of look like you see on many archtops or violins. No figuring in the wood. Maybe like this: http://www.roberto-venn.com/Repairs/archtop2.jpg http://www.ribbecke.com/archtops/athomgf.htm http://34musicstore.co.jp/cgi/data/img38/24.jpg I like to keep things simple, like a mahogany body and maple top cap (BTW-this is a solid body electric). But finding really clean white maple with straight grain is almost as hard as finding nice figure. Also, I wasn't sure if plain sooft or hard maples would stain the same way as the archtops do as they are spruce tops if i am not mistaken? So I guess tyhe question is, should I stick with plain maple? Use a Spruce top cap and carve it just like a maple cap? i don't know what that would do to the overall sound. Or is there another suitable wood that would suit this purpose? Any help is appreciated. just picking your brains. KOMODO

Definitely +1 for jerzy Drozd and for Black Machine. I think both of those are the bomb. Here a few more, not necessarily my favs, just ones i didn't see here or missed. http://www.heatleyguitars.com/ http://www.kbguitars.com/index.html http://www.hguitars.com/ http://www.seibass.com/ http://www.spaltbasses.com/ http://www.auerswald-instruments.com/ http://www.thornguitars.com/ http://www.driskillguitars.com/ http://www.nathansheppardguitars.com/ http://www.mike-sabre.com/uk/menu.htm http://www.teuffelguitars.de/index.html http://www.parkerguitars.com/ Parker has nice website design (and guitar). Forgive me if I have duplicated any of these someone else may have posted. KOMODO

I agree. First is Black Walnut, and the mystery wood is cherry. Both are fine for building, the Walnut would make a great body, esp if it is lighter. I think the heavier/denser walnuts might make a better bass. But who knows, it came come down to each individual plank. komodo

You are going to be shocked at the sound of this . . . Pine sounds great. KOMODO

Matt this is kicka$$. It is really balanced and I love that it's a one pup shredder. NICE! KOMODO

That's cool! I'm building something VERY similar as we speak. I've already done a proto out of pine (to use as my pickup tester guitar) and it's very ergonomic. Who knew construction grade pine sounded so good? KOMODO

Howdy, Has anyone compared (in hand) the Hipshot bridge to the knockoffs you see on E*bay? Some claim they are cast brass, whereas the Hipshot is solid milled brass. I am sure there could also be differences in the coatings. Just wondering if anyone had them both in hand and saw huge differences. I would think that audible tone differences would be small. I would just spring for the Hipshots now, but am buying lotso parts and am trying to spread the love! Any and all help is appreciated. KOMODO

Wes is right. Don't focus on the technicality of the piece. You don't really need to be that good to be on a stage and entertain people. I know WAY back when my first band started playing out, it didn't take too long to realize that the technical solos I was proud of didn't do squat for most people, but one screaming note held out, bent, dive bombed .. . well everybody went nuts. I was watching that Gene SImmons Rock Scool show last night, funny. But he said similar sentiments to those kids. It doesn't matter if you are good, or you suck you succeed or fail. Juts get out there, HAVE ENERGY, get PUMPED, SHOW it and the audience feeds on that. If you watch Vai play live . . .it's almost not so much his virtuosity (although i guess really it is, he's an alien), it's his unreal showmanship. Above all, HAVE FUN. KOMODO

Boy, I agree, that quilt is just obscene.

Which SD P90's are they? There are 3 versions in the Harmony Central Database, not sure if there are more than that. Jeff

I like the design a lot! I personally think the headstock looks a little to heavy (visually) for the body design though, or maybe the shape doesn't relate as much as it could. not a deal breaker though . . . KOMODO

<quote>You be the judge of your particular chunk of wood</quote> Right. Even two pieces of the same wood can be very different. My experience is that those "lesser" grade mahoganies are that they are splintery and coarse grained. If you compared a piece of that with a piece of Royal mahogany for instance, it would be VERY different. But that doesn't necessarily mean it would be bad in application. Considering the work involved in making a guitar, most people tend to gravitate towards much nicer woods or tried and true woods. KOMODO

I'm loving your guitar here Boggs. Have you ever seen a Fender Musiclander? It's a rare one made back in '66 or so . . . very similar. I have one question: how did you get that control plate cut out of the same back wood with such a little gap? KOMODO

Sapele and Mahogany (Honduras or African) are both decent and similar midweight options. Basswood, Poplar, and Swamp Ash are all good lightweight options. The trick is finding a nice clean and clear piece, and knowing what to do with it after that. KOMODO

Westhemann-Please understand that I am not trying to start an argument, and I am not taking offense at alternate methods. What you describe CAN be done on piece of wood as thick as a guitar body that will not flex under the pressure of a planer cutter head. I was trying to offer advice to the other poster about dimensioning wood with a wood planer/jointer, and in most woodworking that doesn't work as the board flexes. Cutting wood to length first, does indeed save waste, but sometimes cutting to length too early can waste wood that could have otherwise been used (think of cutting a 9" wide mahogany plank that could have been ripped first to 6" and the ripped piece being used for a neck). What I take offense at is gross assumptions and condescension. Just because somebody is relatively new to this forum, or doesn't have much GUITAR build experience, does not mean they do not have much woodworking experience or anything to offer. I personally will try to be more tolerant and to avoid anything other than guitar building discussions, as anything else seems to be extremely counter-productive to the reason these forums are here. KOMODO

I am not recommending a 12" jointer. I am recommending dimensioning stock the way that 99% of the woodworking population does it, by jointing a reference face and then planing to thickness. I don't own a 12" jointer, I do know someone who does, but even if I jointed one face wether it was 20" long or 8 feet i would still use the planer for the second face. I just think it's silly to assume what people might or might not have in here. I just saw a guy in here with some HUGE pin router. I have hobby tools. Cabinet saw, 6" jointer, drill press . . the basic stuff. My original intent was to try to give HELP to a newbie who didn't understand a jointer and planer. I find all of these words not very carefully chosen and confrontational. I don't consider them helpful or representative of what a MODERATOR should embody. I don't have every tool (nor did I ever claim to), I do own a planer and jointer and know how to use them. Your previous post WAS confrontational and I found it full of assumptions and condescending. My purpose in these forums is not to look for arguments, quite the contrary, and I refuse to continue with this nonsense. KOMODO

I understand the tool and how to use it. While this is a guitar forum we were discussing the operation of a planer. When dimensioning wood, most people will surface the stock, and then cut it to length. Of course, but then there is more than one way to do something. I would venture to say that most people woodworking will surface two sides and then cut to length. To do this accurately you use a jointer on a surface and then plane the other. Otherwise you push the board down as you say, or if the board were flipped over you would merely mirror the other surface which is no good if you board is bowed. There is more than one way to do things, some more accurate than others. I find your insistance humorous. Big assumption, why wouldn't anyone have a 12" jonter? Spoiled? Huh? You would use the same operation if you had a 6" jointer or a 12" jointer. I you surface one side with a 12" jointer you would still need to run through a planer to get even thickness. But of course there are manyy other ways to do the same operation. Huh? Now I need common sense? Petulant! KOMODO

I respectfully disagree. First a jointer has much longer table beds that are set at different heights. Planers have short beds and both at the same height. A planer can surface wood, but it does not typically correct the dimension of the wood, whereas a jointer does. A jointer will take out cup, bow, twist or whatever. A planer can flatten things somewhat, but it's job is thicknessing. If you run an 8 foot long board with bow through a planer, that board will come out thinner but with the same dimensional defect. BUT, if you first use a jointer to create a flat surface, flip the board over and THEN run it through a planer the planer IS then creating a flat surface which is also parallel to the opposite "reference" side. KOMODO

Hello! First off, it's not a sander but a planer. it uses knives to cut rather than abrasives to sand. It will thickness wood, but will not ensure that it is flat. A jointer will surface wood and make it flat (and square). But . .a planer is certainly a good tool for doing your rough dimensioning and surfacing of raw stock. I have this planer and it is a very good tool, the best of the small planers IMHO. If you had a large enough jointer, you could almost say that you didn't need a planer since it would surface AND make the stock flat. But, a common 6" jointer is a chunk of iron, an 8" jointer is a REALLY big hunk of iron and anything larger is just ridiculous! I find my 6" jointer and this planer a nice combo, although an 8" jointer seems a better fit for guitar building since we commonly glue up 6-8" sections for bodies. You can buy that very planer from Amazon for $350 or less I believe. Have fun! KOMODO Oh yeah, good point Rich . . .i did several body glueups recently and most won't go through the planer even at 13"

Drak, that's really amazing. I really cannot believe that didn't come from the same log. Shocking. KOMODO

Unbelievably cool. Now you're talking my language. I am attempting something very similar to this, only not a LP type shape and using wenge. But simplicity and sparseness with unreal tone are my goals. I was drawn towards Godins guitars because they sort of shared in this design sense. Really nice work! KOMODO

The design I am currently working on is a slightly smaller (than typical) scaled body and if you were to angle the body template on this piece I may be able to get a few out of it. I will just have to try it when i get it. If there is no glueline in the middle, angling shouldn't be that big of a deal. I don't think I would resaw a 1/2" piece and bookmatch, I would rather have the thickness for carving and shaping. Drak-that second piece you had in your Mr Quilty post was awesome! I can only hope that this piece will get something similar! KOMODO

It's 35.5" x 11.25" wide .. only 1/2" thick though . . KOMODO