Rhoads369

oh, in that case, no. i built the body and neck pieces from scratch, but i bought the fingerboard.

yeah I noticed how close the tailpiece was to the bridge after assembly... I think it should work but i'll have to keep it that way I'll try to angle the neck and hopefully it'll clear itself up... update to be added soon... thanks everyone i'll sound like the newbie i am here, but what do you mean by the FB?

ok here's the URL, hopefully this will help: http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk199/mukluk30/

the bridge height compensation sounds like it may be the culprit. I did initially try muting behind the bridge, and it didn't change the sound. Luckily it is a bolt-on neck, and I assume compensating implies just unscrewing the neck a bit to make the string action even, but please correct me if I'm wrong. After assembling the guitar itself, I realized the bridge and tailpiece are fairly close together, but I compared the angle with the other guitar I have (purchased, not a build) that had the same configuration and the angle looked similar. But to be honest, I really have minimal to no knowledge on how to correctly set up a guitar after a build... so far your help has been invaluable, I really appreciate what you've given me.

thanks for the quick help, here's what i know: muting the strings helps a bit, but it still sounds crappy compared to my other guitars. the noise does come from both open and fretted strings, that's one of the first things i tried in hope that it was just something minor. the bridge is down as far as i can get it, the bridge is this model, so it's a bit hard to screw in, but i've got it as far as i can get it. *oh and yes you can hear it through an amp and it doesn't sound like fret buzz

Ok, I'm going to ask for a little help from the experts if that's ok: So, here's my first problem. I am finishing my first full build, and no matter what I try, the strings are still making a nasty twangy sound whenever I play them. I've tried to adjust everything, and nothing has changed. I'm about ready to just give up , and would rather not considering the time I put into this. If it helps, I can add pictures, but its specs are pretty simple; 25.5" scale with a stop tailpiece/tune o matic bridge and a standard nut, angled headstock. Now the other problem, which may be related to the other one. I really don't know. After adjusting the truss rod as far as I can, and (again) anything else I can think of, the action is uneven. Near the first few frets it's great, really low but not too low, but the farther down the neck the higher it is. Any help would be appreciated, I'm just getting pretty frustrated. If pictures would help, I'll add them. Whatever it takes...

thank you for the help! honestly, i think it isn't the neck, since that was already aligned and checked over and over when we put it in, and unfourtanatly, i think the neck probably can never be taken off because of how much of a pain in the a$$ it was to put in, so the only thing that makes sense is the bridge, but i know i have that in right from using a stewmac tutorial on floyd rose installation. i'm hoping it may be the nut, is that a feasible idea?

while trying to continue setting up my rhoads sandoval v i have been working on for the last year,(it is my first build) i found that the strings are not aligned correctly. it is set up with a floyd rose liscensed tremelo with a locking nut. at the nut, the strings are too far to the left edge of the fretboard, while at the last 6-8 frets the 1st string is close to coming off of the fret entirely! is there anything i should/can do to remedy the situation?! thanks

I am building a flying v guitar, and my last purchase is the pickups. i have been eyeing the Seymour Duncan Distortion set, but even after listening to the sample on the website, i was considering maybe a Dimarzio PAF pro with a Super Distortion for the price over the Duncans. I am not going to buy the set of the Duncans since i want them in white and F-spaced, which doesnt come with the price of the set. any suggestions?

this is a little off from the router talk, but i was just wondering if anyone thought i would need any more tools to build a neck when i get to it. i was going to get a stewmac preslotted fingerboard, stewmac neck blank, and stewmac fretwire. i have a router for the trussrod channel, a bandsaw, and plenty of clamps. my main concern is the actual neck shaping, as i havn't been able to find a website that explains that process. i was planning on getting some books and maybe a dvd, but with these standard tools (i think there's a hand planer somewhere too), would i need anything else/ how the hell do i do it?

i dont think many, if any, of the tuning stability vintage trems have fine tuners; i've never seen any of them at least. if you don't want to deal with routing/chiseling your fingerboard, i suggest getting one of the tuning stability vintage trems and put a tremsetter on it

I'm not one to wait, and I don't really care, this is a first so I'm going to learn from it. I'm amazed I didn't start like 2 days ago, but I've been researching and I just went to borders but I couldn't find anything good, plus all the books were expensive. but the only thing I'll do soon is glue the wood together and I probably won't even do that for a few days. ←

i was wondering now that i see this, if it would be illegal for me to buy a squier bullet special and transform it into a guitar based on evh's original frankenstrat. if i put no headstock decal on it, changed the neck, and put a decal inside the trem cavity (which i would rout) saying that it was originally a squier i messed with, would i be at risk of being sued by charvel (with their new evh models) or squier if i sold it at some point?

it seems like a good enough product to me, but i have seen many other speedloaders for a lot cheaper, although they are not buy it now, but i've seen them sell for a lot less than $70

i kind of had the same idea with my first (which is still in progress), so i cut a flying v type guitar with a floyd and a bolt on neck from stewmac. the only thing i really have handmade is the body, but i figure that with my age, i have a lot of time to build more complex designs, and i'd rather have this one turn out to be a kickass guitar i built most of than a horrible one i built all on my own

i was planning on finishing up the one can i was using, and was going to put on dots and paint blue to do a Rhoads Sandoval v type finish so i am going to be using a lot of paint anyways, plus some of the grain was filling up where i had put more paint. even if it does shrink and be visible, i dont think it'll matter too much to me

i am painting a light ash flying v style guitar body that i cut and contoured and have come to a problem. i did not seal the body, figuring i could prime the body with 2 cans of primer, sanding the grain out with each coat. now i am in the painting stages, and have painted about 1/2 a can's worth of paint, yet the grain is still visible. did i screw this thing up or is there hope?

*reply to this* i guess i was not clear...i will be clearer just so i know you hear me...those guitars(sx,agile) are very poor.i pulled of the fretboard and i foundthe reason it seperated...it is glued on very shoddily by using either epoxy or poly glue(looks like poly),and only is glued in two lines(about 1/8" wide each) on either side of the truss rod...plus there is glue spillage all throught the truss rod channel...that truss rod is incapable of adjustment...plus the fit of the neck into the neck pocket leaves alot to be desired... this just goes along with the review i gave on them months ago.dead spots all over the fretboard(now i know why),bad nut slot filing,horrible finish... i just want you guys to know the truth about them...this is not coming from a bunch of kids on harmony central who are just players,not builders.the construction of these guitars makes them worthless for anything more than a starter guitar...and there are better starter guitars out there. the esp ltds are MUCH better constructed. so there you have it.you can't say you weren't warned.i am sure some people will disagree(they always do),but if they really took one apart and knew the way a guitar was supposed to be,they would agree. buy them if you wish.but don't expect the "gibson and epiphone quality" some are claiming i actually checked out the site and found a Rhoads style guitar that caught my eye, but i am unsure of its quality now. it isn't an agile, its a douglas, but should i expect the same crappyness if i were to buy it do you think?

I am not very experienced, only working on my 2nd guitar right now, but have found a dillemma. I am in the process of buying a Kramer Striker guitar that has a pickguard and a pickup configuration of HSS. My question is if it is possible to fill in the single coil holes with wood putty, to enable me to use only a cover for the control cavity and to only use the humbucker, without altering the tone. I do not know what type of wood this body is made of, but any suggestions or valuble knowledge would help. Thanks