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1) Do you find the current companies have sufficient options available on their guitars? a) Yes 2) What do you find is the area that these companies could improve most in? a) Wood choice 3) What do you find is the second most crucial area these companies could improve in? c) Electronics wiring 4) Do you find that when companies do offer extra options outside their common methods that they are reasonablly priced (ie: benefit equals or outways the cost)? b ) No 5) Do you have any other comments, suggestions, criticisms, or complaints about the current guitar market that you feel this survey did not address? Pricing. Guitars are overpriced all over the board, espeically with the brand names. Les Paul Standard for 2300 dollars? Bull.

Yeah, I've worked with spalted maple before, but have never carved it. Thanks for the tips, I'm looking forward to the project.

Thanks for the replies. It is a really nice piece of wood, has all the good qualities you described, fryovanni. I'm thinking of planing it down, laminiating on a 1/2 inch chunk of splalted maple and doing a carved top double cutaway sort of thing. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

I've read those threads, but this piece is really like no pine I've ever seen. It's really dense, and hard.

I found a big chunk of eastern white pine, was wondering what you'd think of it as a tonewood. Usually I'd think pine wasn't good for a tonewood, but this piece is really, really dense. It's not quartersawn and it's fairly old growth, apparently. I've heard usually denser = brighter, but is this the case for pine aswell? Opinions? Thanks.

Could I copy the angle off my LP or would I have to use a different one for my project's 25.5 scale lengh?

I'm installing a tuneomatic into my next guitar. Is it nessecary to install the bridge at a tilt? I see this on a lot of guitars but I don't really know why it's done, since it has the adjustible saddles for intonation. If it is nessecary to install at a tilt, is there a specific angle it should be at? Thanks.

I'm planning on doing a similar guitar with simpler electronics, and I thought it would be much easier to set the mahoghany and maple together before even cutting out the the shape of the body. The only major difference is that I'm going to be using a bolt on neck. Any thoughts on which way is more practical? Thanks.

All the ones on the projectguitar site are down, at least all the seymour duncan ones, and neither google or a search of the forums yeilded any result. I need a schematic with two humbuckers, a three way switch, two volumes, one tone, with one of the pots being a push pull activiating a coil tap. I've never done anything with humbuckers or push-pulls before, and I'm a bit lost. If anyone could hook me up with a diagram it would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Mahoghany is most defenitly an acceptable neck wood. Many guitrar brands use mahoghany for necks. Better if it's quartersawn, though.

If he doesn't want to do a Tele because he already has one, why doesn't he just make up his own design, but keep it simple, using the features that some other guys have mentioned. (flat top, pickguard, etc) That's what I did for my first build. Custom design, wraparound TOM tailpiece, one vol one tone one switch, flat top, and a couple of strat pups. Sounds and looks great. Different but still easy.

Are there any differences between a 12 string and a 6 string guitar besides the nut, bridge, and tuners? Basically I'm asking if I were to build a 12 string would I have to build anything differently than I would on a regular six string? Thanks.

Where's the maple love, guys? I think maple makes a great tone wood. I think most Rics are maple, and I know I've heard of other all maple guitars. My first project was a maple solid body with a couple of strat pups in it. Sounds great. Defenity brighter than an ash or alder strat, but still very nice, and different too. Isn't too harsh or twangy at all. I think an all maple LP would sound alright. Different than a regular LP, for sure though. Like someone else said, it might be better to go with a darker wood for the back, just to have a little more contrast there. Or maybe just a darker finish on the back? Duno. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Yeah, just glue a piece of scrap to the side of the pocket. My template for the neck pocket was a little off on my last guitar, a little shim leveled it up nicely. Nobody'll ever know it's there but me And yeah, I've found carpet tape is the best for holding down router templates as well.

Funny I see this topic, I just came accross a nice big chunk of clear white pine. Looks really nice, and really heavy too, much more so than I expected. I always thought that pine was a crap tonewood, but this is a really nice chunk of wood. I was thinking about doing something with it, but I have no idea what it'll sound like.

Must just be the picture, the fret's fine. Thanks for the replies.

Here are some pics of my first guitar, my dad and I built it. We finished it a few months ago. It has a curly maple body, two Fender Texas Specials, grover tuners, and a wraparound bridge/tailpiece. We finished it with shellac and clear coats of nitro-laquer. We built everything but the neck, which we stole off an old Fender duo-sonic I had lying around. I plan to buy or build a regular 25 1/2 fender strat neck with a rosewood board to put on it sometime. Here are the pics... In Progress: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...r/Newguitar.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara.../frontview2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara.../Gear/front.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...8/Gear/back.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...Gear/Cavity.jpg And the finished product: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...ar/DSCN0659.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...ar/DSCN0662.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...ar/DSCN0654.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...ar/DSCN0672.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/ara...ar/DSCN0673.jpg

I made up my own body design, but kept it simple with a flat top and a bolt on neck I stole off an old squier I had lying around. I did backrout in all the electronics though.

Okay, I think I understand a little more about what I'm doing now... but still not quite sure on everything. The angles of the top are now confusing me as well. I think I'll get some cheap pine and make a mock-up (or two) of the body, I'm sure actually doing it will clear up my misconceptions. Thanks for the replies.

So you're saying that according to my bridge type, body thickness, etc, after drawing out a plan the neck angle will just pop out at me? Like, there is a certain degree that the neck has to be if I use these certain materials?

I've built guitars already, its just that this is my first carved top, and the first that will have a neck angle. I'm just not sure how much of a pitch to put on the neck. The guitar design is totally different than an LP, I just want to use the same neck pitch.

Can anyone give me the angle of the neck on a Les Paul? I'm planning on doing my first carved top, and I'd like it to have the same neck angle as an LP. Thanks.

I have a few questions... I'm thinking of doing a double-cutaway mahoghany guitar with a carved maple top. Bolt on neck. I don't want the carve to be too severe, pretty much like a Les Paul. The way I was thinking I would do it would be to attach the maple top, cut out the body shape, do my pickup routing and drill the holes for the TOM bridge, and then make a sort of skid, and run a router over the body perpendicular to the glue-line. Then for the back of the guitar I would freehand sand it down to the right angle or whatever. Will this work? Do you forsee any problems I might have doing it this way? Are there any other ways to do it? This isn't the first guitar I've built, but the first carved top, and I'm not sure how to do it properly. Thanks for your help.