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I would like to build active electronics in my new bass project, but I cannot find any schematics fo active eq. Is there anyone who knows where I can find it, I`m building bass with passive pickups, jazz bass configuration Thanks

Great and fun, I drink, and make rakija, I have never realised that plum is hard enough to make a fretboard. Also, how making body cavities influences the bass sound, does it becomes fuller and deeper or sharp, and does that influences sustain? I have made one bass it looks much like stingray, but it`s passive and has walnut/oak body, sounds good, but heavy as lead. Cheers

I`m from Kragujevac (Sumadija), but I live in Belgrade. And You do not put Rakija in Plum, You make it from Plum. Barells for rakija are made from mulberry. Plum is the nicest wood I have seen, it can have violet, black and pink streaks in generaly orangish wood. Is there anyone on forum making guitars from fruit trees?

Thanks, It shall certenly have gloss nitro finish, as I like that kind of instruments, also it is going to be ash-walnut-ash laminate neck, fretless, I still canot decide cherry or pear fretboard. I`m living in Serbia, so obtaining exotic african-south american wood is dificult (And too expencive) for me, so I do experiment a lot. I`ll be making that bass when I finish guitar I,m building now. Strat configuration, jazzmaster-like body, maple-maple neck (Not build by myself I must admit, this ash bass neck is going to be my first), wild pear body naturaly dried since 1947. Also, I`m planing a guitar with some plum tree parts.

Is it possible to build bass neck from white (Northern) ash? I would add one thin stripe of black walnut at the middle. It`s going to be a neckthrough. Thanks

Yes, You can, it`s only thing you can use beside lemon oil, which is standard for oiling the fretboard, as I know. I have used it, works nice, but I have never used it on realy quality instrument, I do not know why, maybe because lemon oil is not too expencive in my country. iIf You can go to some shop that sells violins and ask for oil for fingerboard, You shall have the real thing, if not, virgin olive oil works pretty good.

Well, I`m professional graphic designer, I use Adobe Illustrator at work, and like it. Corel Draw is good too, but both are pro software, with pro price. If You are on PC platform (Windows or Linux) Open Office is completely free software package with pretty good vector based drawing program (And Word, Excell, Power Point... replacement applications too). We use it at work so we do not need to buy 200 MS Office packages, and if it`s good for a 1000 people company, I thing it`ll suite You, and again absolutely free - GPL.

I`m not much of a builder, but I have designed guitars for other people and for some manufacturers and I know that one of the most important things about guitar is how comfortable to play-wear it is. Make a template for Your bass original size. Best some thick plywood, just contours, put some strap on it and hang it on Yourself. I think Your bass is wrong balanced and it`s gonna pull over head (Head region will fall down as You do not have much weight at the bottom, I mean bass bottom I do not know about Your bottom), also, How shall you hold it when You sit, I have understood that this one sided wings are on the upper side, I like crazy shaped basses, but Yours seems probematic. As I have started building guitars myself recently beside designing them, do not EVER cut anything before You get all parts and lay them down, and measure and draw everything and rethink everything few times and just look at that for few days, i have ended with exotic wood night table instead with my first guitar because of that. As I have been making bolt on with neck I have bought, it survived, if You make construction mistake on neck through You`ll have a lot of expensive scrap wood. Do not spend fortune on brand name hardware there is a lot of good parts of anonimous manufacturers that make quality parts especialy at USA. Best regards

I`m a beginner in guitar building too, and I disagree with previous post. I do not say that having good reliable tool that`ll last for years, but if You are building guitars as a hoby and do not plan to build more than three or four guitars a year you can save a lot of money on cheeper tools, having a cheep router is better than nothing. I have German Einhell Bavaria Router, payed 42 Euros for it, it`s not German made obviosly but it`s 4 times cheeper than DeWalt for example. Yes it shall not last as Bosch but if You build less than five guitars a year and do not need it for something else, it shall last for Years. But if You buy cheep router, or any other router go buy bosch or some other high quality bits, do never save on saws, bits. . . generally on any tool that actualy cuts the wood, I have learned that on first tool I have bought after chipping 24 Years old wallnut and 5 days of sanding and repairing cracks. Best rtegards

I`m a lousy woodworker, but not so bad designer, so could You give some picture from the front, it`s pretty hard to discuss design by this picture. Bye

If I have it I would measure it, it`ll come from USA next month and I have to decide on this pickup bargain tomorow, but thanks

I`m building a some kind of a telecaster with standard humbucker tele bridge, I have a chance to get some humbucker at low price but I have just realised, I do not know if it takes normal (Gibson) sized or F humbucker, as tele humbridge is made of solid brass I do assume it is not very tolerant to wrongsized pickup, is there anyone who knows? Thanks

I do not know anything about prs, I only played one cheepest once, but I have been setting strat`s for 10 people for Years and none of that guitars sounded better with titened tremolo and more then 2/3ds of those people asked me to do that and changed their mind after demonstration of sound in same conditions (Room+Amp). Sustain was slightly better on some but usually it was unchanged (Sometime even better with loosen). It`s floating tremolo and works best when floating. With tightened bridge Your string vibrates to the bridge and transfer vibrations to wood there. With loosen propperly (very important do not just turn out screws) the springs transfer vibrations more to the wood where they are connected with body. When You have it tight Strat sounds simillar to tele in some way, with loosen You have slight vibe in the sound like You have vibrato effect on amp turned just a little (I cannot hear that under heavy distortion, but I do not play strat with heavy distortion) sound is much more airy. Also some strats when they come from factory have slight decentered neck from the body direction. If so the sound of them is extremely dull and dampened. If You tight bridge on that guitar it sounds like anyone who hate strat will tell You. One thing that is much more usefull than tightening bridge is carefull removal of finish under bridge plate, but I do not do that on any vintage strats because if You are a little careless it can be vissible. My good friend sopped talking to me for a Year because of that Sorry for lenght Best regards to all

Thanks to You all, I`ll probably try with pear or maybe something will come along

I have been playing Warwick wallnut bass it`s among best I have tried, but I`m building something like a tele not bass, with odd pickup configuration (tele neck pickup + humbucker sized p90 at bridge) and wallnut body with some kind of top. Actually I can find fir or pine for top but it has very ugly grains, and maybe a pear. And I`m from Serbia. We have lot of wood but almost everything good is being exported, when You go to lumbermill they do not want to sell less than cubic meter, and carpenters are trying to make me use their cutting services and not just sell wood, so one 1/2x1/2 meters board of some nice wood is being priced 20-30 Euros at them (or at least at first 8 I have asked) Well maybe I`m just too inpatient if I look longer for some nice peace something will come up. And maple is rare in here, I`ll certenly will not use it. what about locust tree, I can get that have anyone expirience with it?