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guitar2005 last won the day on December 3 2014

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About guitar2005


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    Lydian Guitars

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    Ottawa/Gatineau Canada

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  1. I've had this happen around volume controls. I think its a combination of water and pressure while wet sanding and buffing. I've fixed this with lacquer thinner on the cracks, applied a few times, let re-cure for a week then re-spray another coat and fill in the areas where the cracks were.
  2. I'm fixing an older acoustic guitar that need the headstock to be redone. Its an older "Morris" brand guitar and I'd like to have a similar looking logo after the repair, which includes a new headstock overlay. Does anyone know where I could get a one-off decal that would match the original? It looks like this: https://www.aprilwine.ca/blog/i-collect-morris-guitars/
  3. I accidentally used a waxed shellac and when I realized my mistake, I lightly sanded it and I added 2 coats of dewaxed shellac over it, then sprayed the lacquer over it, I just hope the lacquer doesn't peel off because it would be a lot of wasted time, effort and money. So far, on the headstocks, its seems pretty solid but I'm not sure about the bodies with more lacquer layers. Maybe the adherence isn't great because its still fresh? It seems like the dewaxed shellac coats should be sufficient for proper adhesion, but I'm not so sure anymore.
  4. Yeah, I like to use shellac to give the wood a nice hue and it also acts as a sealer and partial grain filler. This is the first time I mix my own shellac. I used a 2lb cut and sprayed it on. I just wasn't sure anymore whether lacquer would work over it with no sanding. I haven't sprayed lacquer in a while.
  5. Do you guys sand a dewaxed shellac base coat when topcoating with Lacquer?
  6. It does depends. On tight, closed grain wood, 180 is what you need to really get that color in. On something like Korina or Mahogany, 220 works well. Sanding to 500 or 600 is a waste of time and the stain or dye will not take as well.
  7. 600 is waaaay to fine for staining. even 220. I rarely go finer than 180. You want to keep the pores open.
  8. Not sure I follow.... Before getting into the other issues, let's just focus on one, fix that and move on. Does the humbucker still hum/buzz? Did you add that brass plate?
  9. Yes, the brass underplate will help you to get a proper ground. You will run a wire from the plate to the ground on the tone/vol circuit of the humbucker. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Bridges/Plate_Mate.html They are easy enough to make yourself. Also, keep in mind that you'll need a small cutout or hole on one side for the piezo wire to come out.
  10. I have worked on the Godin Piezo & Electromagnetic combo in the past and they're pretty straightforward. You will need to get in touch with Godin and ask them for the A6 Ultra wiring diagram. That should help is determining how its supposed to be wired in the 1st place. The A6 has treble/bass controls for the humbucker, which I believe are active. My guess is that the pickup was not installed properly with the tone/volume pot. Really, why do that when there's already an EQ on-board? Do the vol/tone only affect the humbucker? If yes, you could add a brass underplate under the bridge and ground that to the vol/tone pots.
  11. As Scott said, carefully scrape that off. I would try to apply some kind of clear over it when done.
  12. You're not entirely wrong. There's more to it than just that. For example, changing string gauge can affect intonation.
  13. I would not use CA to fill the cracks. I've always used a good quality Epoxy. Apply it generously over the cracks and heat it with a heat gun or hair drier. The Epoxy will seep in and it will become very solid.
  14. For a Genuine Floyd, the nut is not tapered and the "shelf" is 15.4mm.
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