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guitar2005

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Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. I'll use steel wool sparingly, often, as a 1st pass after general levelling and crowning. After that, its grits up to 1000 and then, polishing on a dremel buffing wheel. When I use it, always cover the pickups with tape.
  2. Yes, I see and understand that. I'm just curious as to why there's that white piece of wood there. What it also does is to hide any imperfections when aligning a laminated neck (not to say that KEA need that). It's not going to hide if you are way off, but if there are a tiny bit of slippage during glueing it will show up very nicely (NOT nicely...) when doing laminated necks. A thin contrasting piece hides that and also is very decorative on its own. Yeah, that's what I figured. Getting those pieces perfectly lined up is time consuming and once the glue is on, it can become stressfull.
  3. Another point (or two). Make sure you have a smooth surface to apply the paint on. On one of those pictures, I can see some defects under the paint. Fix that, then paint. The other thing is that as you go higher in grit as you're sanding/levelling the finish, apply gentle pressure and let the paper do the work.
  4. Yes, I see and understand that. I'm just curious as to why there's that white piece of wood there.
  5. Wow. Your builds have come a long way. I have to ask... why the scarf in the middle of the neck?
  6. Exactly. Neck angle has nothing to do with the action. If you need to angle the neck to accomodate a certain geometry or build style & bridige, the action is still setup the same way. Personally, I like strings closer to the body. I build to maximize that proximity, within reason, of course.
  7. Perhaps, but if you're going to stock up on nuts, might as well get the Tusq XL or Black Tusq XL. There's really no point in getting the regular Tusq.
  8. The nut will also affect tuning stability, so its more than just about the open string tone. I like Tusq, more specifically, Tusq XL and Black Tusq. They're consistent, slippery, easy to shape and last a long time. Its the only nut material I use.
  9. I've used "Soft" maple (Silver Leaf) and also Birch. Both will make very good necks.
  10. Exactly... and to go even further, when under string tension, you never know exactly how it will behave
  11. Another thing that comes to mind is how would the pickups be replaced or swapped out? There doesn't seem to be a way to remove them once installed. The intonation must be dreadful and I just noticed the placement of the pickup selector switch and volume control. There's no way you can have the selector in the neck position and not hit it while playing. The concept is interesting but it needs more work IMO.
  12. Regarding the truss rod turns - it depends on the TR. In terms of relief, depending on the guitarists style, more or less relief may be needed. Personally, I have guitars that are setup almost flat and others that have quite a bit of relief. Why? Different guitars for different styles, sounds, music pick attack.
  13. I always get the fretboard as flat as possible and use the best straightedge to check it as I'm radiusing and flattening it. I then incorporate a bit of fallout at the end of the neck, typically around the 17th fret to the end. The amount of fallout is slight, less than half a mm. I find that helps in getting wide bends sound clean higher up on the fretboard. In terms of backbow being induced when fretting, that should not happen. Make sure your slots are the proper dimension and clean them before fretting.
  14. Not only are the bridge angled, the white guitar has a trem bridge with no trem cavity, installed as a hardtail. Very odd.
  15. IMO, there are much easier and efficient ways to produce a hollow/thin/light guitar. Just look at the Fender Thinline or any other semi-hollow solid body. I like the concept though, but it seems like more work than needed.
  16. If you ask me, anyone that posts their work on a public forum is doing some self promoting.
  17. GFS Strings are pure ****. I tried a set just to see and I had to take 'em right off. Don't waste your money on them. If you need strings, the major brands are a good bet but I've had great luck with webstrings when I gigged regularly 3-4 years ago. I'd get 12 packs at a time. They're just as good as brand named strings IMO.
  18. I find the rub-down interesting. Are they simple to apply? Any tips/tricks to get them right?
  19. I've potted those pickups and they sound great once fixed up. As for the cap, try it potted and see what you think.
  20. I need to have a white or silver decal made for a dark headstock. Does anyone here know where I could find someone that could do such a thing? I had a guy that made some for me a couple of years ago but he's no longer reachable.
  21. I agree with curtisa. Try another pickup as a test. I've been using Dimarzios for 30 years and never had issues with them being microphonic.
  22. I don't recommend a Dimarzio PAF in the Strat. I think that the PAF Pro is a better pickup for a Strat. The coil split is a definite plus in the Strat and for the middle/neck pickups, I'd get a medium/high output pair of single coils.
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