Jump to content


Veteran Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About krazyderek

  • Rank
    that guy
  • Birthday 04/17/1983

Profile Information

  • Location
    Dartmouth, NS, Canada
  • Interests
    Guitars (playing, composing, making, fixing, reading up on), hacky sack, eating and delivering pizza, cycling.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,582 profile views
  1. what thickness are you using? my 3/16 stuff is usualy fine, granted most of what i do is just drill a whole then make my template on the router with a flush trim bit, and some straight edges taped to the top. I try to make as many of the round parts with frostner bits. In the rare event i end up having to sand part of the template, my oscilating drum works fine, sands almost the same as maple. Maybe it was the grit you where using? Was it some kind of special acrylic??
  2. i always subtract 0.415" from the scale length and measure that distance from the nut the align your center line for the post's on that mark. Or add 0.415" to the template from the center line of the post's towards the back, so the scale line should fall pretty much at the start of the trem block hole, and now you can measure the scale normaly on the guitar, and the template already has it's compensation line built in. Remember the saddle to post distance is a constant regarless if you use it on a 251/2" scale guitar or a 24" scale guitar.
  3. umm.... actually it's the little bolts that hold the saddle in place, just slide them under and clamp down the saddle, kinda tricky when you first adjust the intonation, but once that's done you shouldn't have to think about them ever again.
  4. have you guys never been to an electronic's shop? i have at least 3 in the buisness park down the road, they carry every type of wire, for quite a bit less then stewmac i think
  5. did you measure the radius of the neck though? both at the nut and the last fret ? as saber mentioned you can adjust the radius of the bridge if it's just the outer strings that are buzzing, and that should fix the prob. and allow you to lower the action just curious, what did you use to level and check your neck ? precision ground levels and rulers? did you jig the neck when leveling? did you use a notched straight edge? and where you able to use some feeler guages to check the levelness of the neck? finaly, what are we talking here ? one man's "high" action is another's "low" can
  6. most of them i've seen you need the f spaced pickup, cause tele's in general have pretty wide string spacing at the bridge. you might want to phone the maker/seller of the bridge, they should be able to confirm what i just said, i remember warmoth for example used to have a diagram of the Hum tele bridge they sold.
  7. exacto knife and a ruler i feel kinda stupid i forgot this, put on a new set of strings and get some "fast fret" or i use a product called "finger ease" basicly oil to help your fingers slide across the frets and strings, some of it helps prevent corrosion on strings too.
  8. i picked up a variety pack of brass shim stock from leevalley since they're local for me.
  9. what part of the neck is it that feels "slow" ? the fingerboard? or the back of the neck where your thumb slides ? and how old is the guitar. the fingerboard it's self should be cleaned every couple months though regardless, you can pick up some cleaning solution at your local guitar shop, and use some ultra fine steel whool to polish the frets. be sure to use a guard for the finger board though for the back of the neck you can use the same steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper (or higher for a lesser effect) to give the back of the neck a "satin" feel, however this WILL affect the look an
  10. yes, but they're not the comfiest guitar around, maybe if i had a gut cut on mine
  11. would be nice if there was a "THUMB" button, it could be a combination of the IMG and HTTP buttons, you put in a direct link to the full size image, and the only thing that shows on the forum is a 150 x 150 scaled version of the pic. click on the thum and a blank ( no add page ) pops up to show the full size pick some forums have a similar but flawed feature, they often require you upload the pic to the forum, and often have a KB size limit, a thumb button would have no hassle, no manual resizing saving every image twice, moving your pics from this site to that site, bla bla bla.. just
  12. out of the woods you listed, i beleive wes tried cherry on one of his guitars, i have no experience with it though, as a good guide, i'd reffer you to warmoth's neck wood description page they mention what woods are suitable for fingerboards.
  13. one follow up on the stew mac product that kinda follows with what's already been said, it requires modding the guitar, drilling extra holes, potentialy buying new springs, as well as a "sustainer clip??? in the end kevan's device looks stronger, easier, simpler to install, and probably cheaper, both to purchase, and to have installed.
  14. *cough* http://guitarpartsdepot.com/Merchant2/merc...egory_Code=FRLT *cough*
  15. i use little quick clamps with a specific thickness shim placed in a certain place to angle the body wings on the neck part that runs thru the body, then i place the clamps on the peice, i prefer to do it one side at a time sidesways (see below, since i have more control, and nothing slide's around or moves or, you can do both wings at the same time; http://www.dreamlandguitars.com/images/neckthrus_032.jpg some people use dowels or biscuts... but eh...
  • Create New...