krazyderek

what thickness are you using? my 3/16 stuff is usualy fine, granted most of what i do is just drill a whole then make my template on the router with a flush trim bit, and some straight edges taped to the top. I try to make as many of the round parts with frostner bits. In the rare event i end up having to sand part of the template, my oscilating drum works fine, sands almost the same as maple. Maybe it was the grit you where using? Was it some kind of special acrylic??

i always subtract 0.415" from the scale length and measure that distance from the nut the align your center line for the post's on that mark. Or add 0.415" to the template from the center line of the post's towards the back, so the scale line should fall pretty much at the start of the trem block hole, and now you can measure the scale normaly on the guitar, and the template already has it's compensation line built in. Remember the saddle to post distance is a constant regarless if you use it on a 251/2" scale guitar or a 24" scale guitar.

umm.... actually it's the little bolts that hold the saddle in place, just slide them under and clamp down the saddle, kinda tricky when you first adjust the intonation, but once that's done you shouldn't have to think about them ever again.

have you guys never been to an electronic's shop? i have at least 3 in the buisness park down the road, they carry every type of wire, for quite a bit less then stewmac i think

did you measure the radius of the neck though? both at the nut and the last fret ? as saber mentioned you can adjust the radius of the bridge if it's just the outer strings that are buzzing, and that should fix the prob. and allow you to lower the action just curious, what did you use to level and check your neck ? precision ground levels and rulers? did you jig the neck when leveling? did you use a notched straight edge? and where you able to use some feeler guages to check the levelness of the neck? finaly, what are we talking here ? one man's "high" action is another's "low" can you give us some measurements from the tops of the frets to the bottom of the strings prefferably at the 12th fret, and probably not a bad idea to take 3 measurements, E D/G, and e strings.

most of them i've seen you need the f spaced pickup, cause tele's in general have pretty wide string spacing at the bridge. you might want to phone the maker/seller of the bridge, they should be able to confirm what i just said, i remember warmoth for example used to have a diagram of the Hum tele bridge they sold.

exacto knife and a ruler i feel kinda stupid i forgot this, put on a new set of strings and get some "fast fret" or i use a product called "finger ease" basicly oil to help your fingers slide across the frets and strings, some of it helps prevent corrosion on strings too.

i picked up a variety pack of brass shim stock from leevalley since they're local for me.

what part of the neck is it that feels "slow" ? the fingerboard? or the back of the neck where your thumb slides ? and how old is the guitar. the fingerboard it's self should be cleaned every couple months though regardless, you can pick up some cleaning solution at your local guitar shop, and use some ultra fine steel whool to polish the frets. be sure to use a guard for the finger board though for the back of the neck you can use the same steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper (or higher for a lesser effect) to give the back of the neck a "satin" feel, however this WILL affect the look and the guitar will have to be wet sanded and re-buffed if you dont like that "satin" feel or look.

yes, but they're not the comfiest guitar around, maybe if i had a gut cut on mine

would be nice if there was a "THUMB" button, it could be a combination of the IMG and HTTP buttons, you put in a direct link to the full size image, and the only thing that shows on the forum is a 150 x 150 scaled version of the pic. click on the thum and a blank ( no add page ) pops up to show the full size pick some forums have a similar but flawed feature, they often require you upload the pic to the forum, and often have a KB size limit, a thumb button would have no hassle, no manual resizing saving every image twice, moving your pics from this site to that site, bla bla bla.. just a simple button. I'm no programmer though so maybe that button isn't as easy as it sounds.

out of the woods you listed, i beleive wes tried cherry on one of his guitars, i have no experience with it though, as a good guide, i'd reffer you to warmoth's neck wood description page they mention what woods are suitable for fingerboards.

one follow up on the stew mac product that kinda follows with what's already been said, it requires modding the guitar, drilling extra holes, potentialy buying new springs, as well as a "sustainer clip??? in the end kevan's device looks stronger, easier, simpler to install, and probably cheaper, both to purchase, and to have installed.

*cough* http://guitarpartsdepot.com/Merchant2/merc...egory_Code=FRLT *cough*

i use little quick clamps with a specific thickness shim placed in a certain place to angle the body wings on the neck part that runs thru the body, then i place the clamps on the peice, i prefer to do it one side at a time sidesways (see below, since i have more control, and nothing slide's around or moves or, you can do both wings at the same time; http://www.dreamlandguitars.com/images/neckthrus_032.jpg some people use dowels or biscuts... but eh...

good post frank, 3. try to lean away from light body woods like Basswood, my all basswood guitar is 1.6" i think and it's a tad neck heavy

2. angle the neck, and/or replace the spring block with a shorter version

ed sells the bridges with the nut, and that (r2) is 10"(or should be), then shim the bridge. You can try and call in your order to confrim the nut radius.

pickups may not be on, and neck pocket is kinda hard to extend properly with any accuracy, find the center of the existing bridge (hint:right between the D and G saddles ) or put a small machinest's square on the guitar and slide it up to either E string mark a line on the guitar at the bottom of the machinest's sqaure and find the center. get a long ruler and clamp it on the fingerboard using quick clamps ( the yellow one's from walmart) use a little ruler to center it at the nut and at the last fret, then it should extend thru the center of the guitar. I'd use all of those to find your "mean" center line of the body and go with what looks best.

hate to kick over a dirty bottle but, not to many people around here would glue a warped fingerboard to a neck, at least i wouldn't. If you get one from stewmac that is warped (which it shouldn't be) i'd send it back. i guess it depends on the type of "warp" if it's twisted like a peice of lickerish.... well.. that should be obviouse, but if you sight the length of the board, and there's just a slight bow in the board, but no twist, then you should be ok.

you could have slotted another fretboard by now, even if you had to resaw a fresh blank and hand saw each fret with a mitter box. i'm assuming you have some left over fingerboard stock unless you baught ONE blank which is kinda un-economical

to calculate proper bridge radius (in compound radius situations) use this radius calculator spreadsheet to measure the radius of your fingerboard, and under the strings (actual bridge radius) stew mac under string radius guages or for just the fingerboard, the notched stainless steel ones might be a bit more durable. to get the correct radius at the bridge use shim stock, available from universal jems, or all parts or just pick up a variety pack from your hardware store and cut the square's yourself. Original floyd's are 12"radius on their own, but most of them come assembled with a 0.01" peice of metal running under the ADGB saddles to make it roughly a 10" radius. If you want to be completely **** about it, take off the metal plate, install the bridge, use the under string radius guages to measure the exact radius you get, use the calculator to find out the exact shim size you need under the saddles, cut and install it, reinstall, recheck with the under string guages. Now hope you sanded the nut area to exactly 10"

for the record, i prefer honeycombing cause it's a tad faster(imagine moving a 1 or 2" squared template 10 or 15 times for routing ) and leaves alot of support for tops, so i don't have to worry as much about warping/dips if i use really thin tops,

exactly why i want to use it

anyone have a pic of honeycomb style hollowing? I remember there used to be a pic on warmoth's website but i guess they don't offer it anymore?