krazyderek
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Everything posted by krazyderek
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the body looks a tad longer cause of the 24 frets too, heace you had to push the bridge toward the neck a tad aswell.. and i agree with the above, when working with most exotic hard woods you should really be wearing a respirator mask with replacable filters and an out valve. i think it's bubinga that is actually poisonous
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i think that's mainly a neck wood cause of the weight....
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lol i might as well just posted it here lol.... but remember guys you seriously can't reproduce these temepered tuning specifications for profit.. but personal use is fine
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basswood can be kinda soft though... so you might be able to "wing" things with it that alder ( a bit harder wood) may not allow.... like deep router passes... etc... alder is a good choice.... poplar is good too..
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well... it takes a bit of skill and practice.... hence they cost about 120$... you can probably read up on it and do a "good enough" job if it's just for you, as far as tools, you'll want some good plyers, and i would recomend getting your hands on a arbor with the correct sized caul insert for the radius of your necks, it'll make things alot easier once you get to leveling and such..... but they run about 45$ and you have to have a drill press to mount it in... not to mention if they're non-new necks you'll have to make yourself a neck caul to support the neck. and then on top of all that crap you still have to get some frets lol gl though....
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i'll just elaborate a bit more on the above incase you're slow like me see router bits with bearings at the end that doesn't go into the router are used to trace things, these are called flush trim bits, bits with the bearing on the shank (the shaft that fits into the router) are used to trace the template you just made with the flush trim bit, onto a blank peice of wood.. these are usualy called template bits, and are used with a template or jig (same thing) that is taped (with double sided tape) or screwed to the blank peice of wood.
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brian did you get it too? ya i live in dartmouth/halifax.... capitol of NS just an hour or so away.. i think my friend went to acadia... did you stay in the tower? his name was nick warren
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i beleive fender put them on because he noticed on tv that the maple necks looked dirty and rosewood would hide it..... but a side effect is that different finger/fret boards alter the sound of the guitar slightly.. maple being bright, and crisp, ebony being precise and so on....
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definitly shop localy, that way the wood has already adapted to the envirnment, and you also want to go through the pile of wood yourself and select a nice peice, ( no warps, twists, bends, chunk's missing, wrotted, or knots) around here mahogany goes for about 7$ a foot or something... and you need about 4ft (2x7) if your' going to cut it in half and have a 2 peice body..
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i'm a hardcore strat fan, but i think you guys are all crazy... looks like those things fell off a cliff i'd never buy something that "relic"-y... and 10 grand!!!!!! are you crazy!!!! i'll take your guitar and smash it against my fence a couple times for 25$ lol seriously... i know just cause something is old doesn't mean it's junk but it also means that it's probably not far off IMHO
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Ibanez all access neck joint
krazyderek replied to krazyderek's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
lol for a sec the pics didn't load and i was like.... what??? that's a good starting point.... i probably should have measured that on the back of the guitar when i traced it at the music store... -
ya probably a good idea, i'll try and dig up the link to the actual patent office as well.. but i'll send the info i use on a .doc word file ok hey anthony you live in NS eh?
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that's cool, i didn't like the prs and even the fender factories, to many automated machines... it's rediculus.... the vigier factory looks awsome though!!!!! i've never really played they're guitars, but imho that's how a guitar should be made.... by people.... not machines.... this isn't the matrix... (i hope)
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ok well i stumbeled onto this when i was reading up on the buzz feiten tunning system, i was trying to find the equations and intonation offsets, so i could use them at home for personal use only, hence not infringing on the patent buzz currently has, so only read on if you agree to use the following for personal use only!!! if you want to do this for other people and charge them then you have to buy a liscence to do so, but it's free to discuss these things, cause they're freely available on the patent office's web site. so before i post them i should just make sure, does anyone object ?
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Ok i'm a newb here so i'm not sure if this had been done or not, but i was woundering if i could get some sckematics or actual plywood templates for the (front and back) for an RG/jem style all access neck joint. So i want the the dimensions of the pocket and the dimensions of the guitar outer shape in that area ( you know it looks kinda like a wave instead of a rectangle) any takers? i tried doing my own on a couple guitars just by how my hand felt when i play the upper frets but i think cut off way to much so i'm hoping the neck won't be to rickety...
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alot cheaper way is to just move the nut forward a tad and set up the intonation for tempered tuning..... i have the specs if you want to try it yourself..