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krazyderek

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Everything posted by krazyderek

  1. thanks for the next day shipping man, appreciate it! neck looks awsome, i've been wanting to try out a carvin neck for a while now
  2. True, but if i remember the instructions from my last guitar teacher, he was very critical about how to play fingerstyle, and i think you're supposed to pull the string sideways with your nail and part of your finger, not pluck it up (away) from the guitar, that WOULD require higher action to keep it from buzzing. But thank you for the info. I did find some info on the net, referencing roughly the same action that i see on my guitar, still, seems awfully high. Maybe i'm just an electric whimp hehe...
  3. They're great pickups, really hot too. They'll help you on the road to nailing that metallica tone. In the bridge i preffer the 85 myself, a bit more of a midrange scoop and a tad bit hotter then the 81, which is how i like my C tuned guitar. But i found the 81 was better with loud amps and playing within a band cause it has higher mids and creamier sound so you mix in better with a band when gigging and such... 60 is the only neck pickup i'll use in an emg guitar, but experimentation is the key to finding your own sound.
  4. Reveived a hand made mexican classical guitar as a gift recently. Sounds great, and plays well, as in the intonation is well on, and it stays in tune well with no buzzing. But the action seems a bit high to me at 9 to 10 64th's, compared to a nice accoustic i have setup at 4/64ths. Of course the nylon strings are much easier to play. I have checked the nut height and the neck is near perfect straight with a very slight releif in it, so i'm assuming lowering the bridge would be ok ? i'm just not certain what's considered a good action for a classical ? There is one problem however, the saddle on this guitar isn't very high, so i probably won't be able to adjust the action by very much and i don't want to go sanding down the bridge on a brand new classical guitar. Comments, suggestions ?
  5. i'd ask emg directly, they have diagrams for almost any combination of their pickups, if you email their tech guys, they'll probably send you the diagram for wirring the 85 and 81 anyway you want
  6. Back in the day, independant musicians could sign up for free profile accounts at mp3.com and uima.com ( http://artists.iuma.com/IUMA/Bands/Derek_Neil/index-1.html ) and store some of your songs there for everyone. But now mp3.com seems to have changed, and iuma is slower then a donkey going backwards. Anyone know any good sites that do this now ?
  7. pulling out of the floyd market all together, just to hard to keep stock on a small buisness budget, so for now it's just guitars. Hopefully i'll have something up here in gotm by summer. Thanks for well wishings guys!
  8. After a year of doing the internet buisness thing it was time to renew my hosting account and domain name but i decided not to. With a full time job paying well, and most of my remaining time going to processing and shipping floyd orders I really didn't have time to work on guitars at all, as some of you may have noticed. So i have decided to not renew the domain, and rather try and get back on my feet (in the shop that is) and get those friggin guitars done once and for all, and leave the website buisness to the pro's, as i am admitadely only a casual hobbiest builder. Since i have recieved numerous calls about the site and products, i thought i should let you all know exactly what was going on. If you're trying to email one of my @dreamlandguitars.com mail accounts they will bounce so please contact me here on the forum, thru pm, thru email on here, or if you already know my addy. (please don't paste it on here due to spam bots). Feel free to pass along the news aswell. I will be putting up a free domain so you all can still access the one or two turoials and reference information some of you may have been enjoying. Peace, Derek
  9. unless you want to mess around with veneering the pickup it's self, or trying to glue together an incredibly fragile box made of veneer then the easiest option is to rout. this would be the most practical and safest way i can think. get a scrap peice of wood that's more then big enough, measure the outside of the pickup for depth, and exact measurements. now using 4 peices of wood or something as your template guide's double stick those onto the wood as your template to make the box, then route at appropriate depth (probably take you a couple of passe's) now make sure the pickup fits in there snug, but not to tightly... ok, so you should have a fairly big peice of wood that was easy to clamp while routing, that now has a route in it, (no a hole that goes all the way thru) measure out another box 2mm or so bigger then the route, and cut just outside that line on your band saw/scroll saw, then sand to final shape, being sure to measure carefully every 10 or 20 seconds of sanding to make sure you don't sand those walls down too thin... hope that was clear... unless of course you have a cnc machine then just press the green button
  10. i found the biggest thing was the blade tension once i got that up to near it's max the blade didn't even think of wandering.
  11. sounds like you haven't got the miter box setup properly if you are using the stew mac one, the brass blocks need to be right up against the side of the saw, i have to use general pupose white grease to move my saw thru the miter box i keep my saw that tight, i also don't use the brass blocks for depth at all, so lower them as close to the teeth as you can but still be able to get the blade in and out for the box, that along with tightening the blocks to the saw will help prevent any twisting of the saw (the butterfly slots you mentioned) use a peice of a coke can or some little peice of thin metal and score a mark for your depth to check the slot depth that way ( much more accurate then a pencil or pen mark on paper) once you have the saw lubricated in the box it should fly thru the wood, unless it's an old saw, then you might just want to get a new sharp one, or if it's still getting "stuck" in the wood, definitly try scott's candle trick, or pick up a can of dry coat it's a tool cutting edge lubricant that's how i had my box setup and i can slot a board in under 30 mins.... but i do have pretty strong arms EDIT: woopse, you're using the saw free hand, ok, well buy the miter box and the fretting template... then follow the above... the box will easily pay for it's self in one use by the sounds of how long it's taken you so far (no offence intended)
  12. Welcome to the forum Jim. A price list of some sort, and examples of "rough" work in high res pics (several) would be a good idea.
  13. true.... and dido, i just got rid of my mg100RCD off to ebay you go! Seriously, i snagged a peavey ms412 for 130$ and an old carvin head (w/built in EQ) for 330$ shipped along with a boss sd-1 for 35$... so so powerfull and a wide tonal range. I would also highly recommend you go with a tube amp... just a bigger more powerfull sound from them.
  14. great job on the body!! looking forward to seeing the completed guitar, and i vote chrome for the hardware, and use domb knobs too
  15. spelling... yup, tenon, if the headstock was to thick, then make it thinner with a scrapper or a sanding block, tedious, but worth it in the end. Actually i see a router in one of his pics, you could build a little jig to thin down the top of the headstock aswell. ouch what? did you hurt yourself reading my post? It was simply some contructive criticism so that his next guitar can turn out even better then that one, which i say again, is very nice.
  16. Very nice project, the guitar has a good braught together feel to it in terms of the design it's self. Although perhaps my eye's are just a bit sharper, i did notice one or two points that you could work on for your next project; There where a couple of area's that where filled in with epoxy or some compound, around the butt of the guitar on either side of the tendon, and again on the bass and treb side of the neck joint. The string ferrules don't seem to be centered on the tendon and neither does the alignment of the neck if you look at some of the rear views. You might have wanted to use the washer's included with most tuners, it would have helped prevent any cracks to the headstock veneer. And the veneer it's self should have been replaced unless you meant to undersize it ? Or you might have only had enough wood for one headstock veneer? Oh, just noticed as well, the back does look very clean but there's no control cavity access, it's going to be interesting to try and clean your pot when the time comes. But for a first guitar, it doesn't look to bad, just some pointers for the fine details next time. I'm assuming the first 2 are mostly due to the tools you had to use, so next time just try and be a bit more carefull and plan for these areas, have the neck nice and centered on the tendon. And maybe think about the utility of certain parts of the guitar down the road (ie, control pot)
  17. krazyderek

    Tubes

    the main thing i noticed when i got my carvin tube head was how much more thicker it was compared to both of my any ss amps, miles more bottom end... and with a little tweaking i could adjust for as much or as little sizzle and crispiness as i wanted.. where most SS amps have this horrible circuit board fizz once you try to push the amp. Basily, just way more power where it counts...
  18. depends what kinda of guitar you have, if it's a generic strat copy chances are they will... if it's an Ibanez RG or look alike, that might be a bit harder to find localy, call around though. If that fails there are several online store that carry pretty much any pickguard you'd want. yes, knobs are available in black... and depends what kind of pickup covers you need,
  19. So i'm in the process of building my jig and i'm trying to figure out where the body supports go on the plywood.... is there any specif places ? i basicly just took a couple of bodies and traced them on the plywood then marked areas where the supports would contact all the bodies without hitting any rear router covers.. I'll have a seperate set of inserts to put the rods in for electrics... and then eventually accoustics. On a side note, GuitarFrenzy puts a bend into his threaded rods that support the DI's, but doesn't that make them kinda hard to adjust up and down? While doing a bit of research i found this pic and it looks like the stew one just has those rods offset... I'm also kinda a little undecided on... is the length of the rod / how high in the beam to put the tightening knob.. looks like my knobs will be 1-1/2" down.. and the rods will be ~8" long... There's also a problem with the headstock support rod... i checked on a couple of necks.. the rod seems to come up and hit the tuners on more then one of the guitars i have around.... anyone else notice this? i just moved the rod towards the tightening strap a bit to fix it... just thought i'd ask... Lastly, wasn't mimf selling a set of plans on their site somewhere? i've tried searching this site and mimf and i can't find it anywhere...
  20. 3 blanks..... or 6 ~1" bookmatched tops... (which i think would look better for that grain)
  21. 1/2" diameter is pretty much the standard for most cutters that you'd need, other then a couple of smaller diameter ones for tight corners. Length is up to you, but looks like P152006A would be the best bet, it's 3/4" long, which is kinda long, since youre first pass will have to be pretty much 3/4" deep in order for the bearing to contact the template, this is why stew mac sells a 1/2" x 1/2" cutter, so that the first cut can be made shallow enough. MLCS woodworking also sells a 1/2" x 1/2" template cutter. Also once you get up to cutters with a cutting length that's 1" or above it would be a bit better to have a router with a 1/2" collet, for example... a 2" long flush trim bit HAS to be on at least 1/2" shank.
  22. ahhh, very cool.... so the scfm is the minimum it will put out in worst case scenario... good to know
  23. generaly a 10mm bushing would require a 10mm hole, would it not? you can use some 30 second super T glue, but that will make it awfully hard to remove if you ever have too (i'll bet you 1,000,000.00$ you'll want/have to at least once before that guitar reache's the end of it's life in a couple of decades)
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