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akozols

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Everything posted by akozols

  1. I might give 10's a shot. How much of a back angle do you file the slot? thanks, al
  2. You're making a square hole for a round peg. I use those torch cleaning files that have a round profile and can be bought in any welding supply store. I suspect the leading edge of the nut slot for the Low E is not quite snug. As mentioned, the tool you used to cut the slot didn't have a round profile which makes for gaps where the string is supposed to rest. This causes strange things like buzzing, pinging and pitch changes while the string is vibrating. Depth of slot should be only half the string diameter and the leading edge of the slot should be sharp and in full contact with the string. I did file a round profile to the back of the saw blade, so I think it's fine. I'm going to file some stock, install the string into the slot and look at it with a light behind it. thanks, al
  3. Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty good at working on the guitar, I've done everthing from refinishing to refrets. But this E thing is driving me bonkers. I use serrated feeler guages up to the A string, but for the E string I use the back edge of a jigsaw blade that I serrated. The saw blade is .043" and I use a .042 E string. I do cut the slot at a slight back angle. I think the problem is a combination of hitting the open E too hard and the nut. When I hit the open E, the string has a WIDE oscillation to hit where the F note won't. I have to figure why the fretted note has less oscillation. I suspect that the fretted note has the string muted a bit by the next fret where the open string has more clearance. I'm going to pull out the feeler guage to take some measurements. I also ordered a molded plastic nut, jut to compare my nut to it. I'll keep ya updated, al
  4. Hi All, I'm having a problem where if I hit the low open E with any vigor, it will ring sharp for a bit. Also the string will oscillate wildly where if I hit the 1st fret F note it will be fine. I'm not sure if I'm hitting too hard or I'm not cutting the slot correctly. Have you ever seen a nut issue that will cause this problem? I just ordered a cheapo precut plastic nut, just to see what that does. thanks, al
  5. I have a set of gold 3X3 Grover locking tuners and ned a set of 6 in-line lolcking tuners. They could be any color. thanks, al
  6. I finally got around to finishing my project. It didn't turn out to bad. I rushed the cuts so it wasn't a perfect fit. I filled the gaps with a mixture of mahog dust and glue. The dried mixture cured darker than I wanted. I got the chunk of wood from soundat11 and he sent me a piece that would match(it did). Overall, it was a good fix to get it up and running again. al
  7. I have a set of 3X3 gold Grover locking tuners. They are used but have only been on the guitar for about a month with light use. One of the tuners has a chip of gold missing from the back. I also have a set of Phantom locking Strat style saddles in chrome. They have a hole for the string, and a set screw to lock the string to the saddle. They are in excellent condition. Looking for $30 shipped for the tuners and $25 shipped for the saddles(USA). I'm also interested in trades. I could use some kind of tabletop unit to record to my PC(digitech,korg), locking trem, 10" speaker, make an offer. thanks,, al
  8. I've stripped a few Peavey guitars. Once you think you are down to the wood,,,,,keep sanding. They use a real thick coat of sealer. When you think you're at the wood, pay attention to the dust from the sanding. Until you hit the wood, the dust will be a fine white powder that has a plasticy smell to it. The dust will chhange when you're past the filler. My last Peavey refinish was a mahogany body. I sanded down past the filler till I was at pure wood. The pores were huge, but looked great. I ended up using one thick coat of Tru-0il. I had to let it dry for a week. One coat drasticly darkened the wood, in a good way. You could still feel the pores, but the natural wood feels great. I actually put a second coat on, but didn't like the way it looked or felt. al
  9. Russ, I appreciate the offer for wood, but Will has a piece that will fit my project. I will make sure to post how the repair goes. thanks again, al
  10. Payp[al is fine. Let me know what the total is. thanks, al
  11. Thank you, that would be perfect. I would be more than happy to cover shipping. I'm in Lansdowne, Pa 19050. Al
  12. Thanks, but I'm going to pass. The body that I have now is a perfect match for alll the hardware I have. al
  13. HI, Just a quick update and quick clarifiacation. Even though I'm knowledgeable about all aspects of guitar repair, I'm a total newbie when it comes to wood and woodworking. My woodworking tools consist of a cope saw, rasp, and a router that my wife got me for christmas. My shop is a little table I have down the basement. If it's a messy job, I have to go outside in the cold. But I still learn more each day. BAck to the original problem. I went back and looked at the original neck. I noticed all the wobbiness was from from the 5th fret to the nut. That's were the neck tapered down to 1 5/8" width. On the back of the neck in that area are two "V"s in the grain. it doesn't look like a glue-in spot. It almost looks like the grain is coming in at a different angle. Is that the cause of the wobble? Is it because the profile is different in this area? thanks, al
  14. Right now I just want to get it back together. I have a neck that I really like and can use that for now. al
  15. HI, I love to work on my guitars. I'm self-taught and have learned everthing from trial and error. I'd like to pass on my latest error. I have a guitar that's all mahogany with a set in neck. The neck was also mahog with a poly finish. I decided to sand the neck down to a slimmer contour. What did I learn?? If you shave a mahogany neck down too slim, it turns into a rubber band. Just holding an open E chord whould make the neck wobble out of tune. I cut out the section of the body, and will try to glue in a solid block of mahogany, then route out a spot for a bolt-on. Does this sound like the right option? thanks, al
  16. HI, I'm looking for a small piece of mahagony about 2.5" X 2.5" X 5". I have a mahogany body that originally had a set in neck and I had to cut it out. I'll make a post on "what not to do to a mahog neck". I want to make a cutout for a bolt-on. thanks, al
  17. I'll bite with a serious answer. I finished one in two days(and it looks it). It's not a traditional gloss finish but it doesn't look bad at all. I've seen some guitars lately with a satin finish. Most of them have a textured finish. I wanted to try a water based finish that I could do down the basement quickly. I got a small bottle of flat black acrylic paint from a craft store(89 cents). I thinned it out and sprayed with a preval. I sprayed about 3 inches away so that I would get orange peel. I let it dry a day and them sprayed a coat of satin polycrylic(water based poly). It looks like the satin finishes that Fender is doing lately. Quick, easy, and cheap. Al
  18. I did make an improvement to tuning. The original nut was the fat Gibson type, I found a graphite Fender type that was thinner. First thing I did was to glue the nut in place and mark where the slots would be. I then used a small straight-edge going from the tuner to the fretboard side of the slot mark. I used the edge as a guide for the initial cut of the slot. Once the slot was started, I sat the guitar in playing position and noticed the angle of the string from the slot to the tuner. I cut the slot(using a notched feeler gauge) using the same angle as the string. After I cut the slot, I finished up by using sandpaper wrapped around smaller feeler guages to smooth out the slot. I finished with a quick lube of graphite. It now stays in tune 99.5% doing drastic whammys. My tuner are beat and I have about 70 bucks.. I'm not sure if I want to get a new set of locking tuners, or try to find a Floyd system to install. Let me know if yoiu have any more questions. Al
  19. HI, I'm no expert, but I have experience making bodies, installing trem, refrets, basic guitar setup. I'm having a problem that has me stumped. I have an older Peavey Impact with a two point trem and Sperzels. I have the problem of the plain strings going sharp after a trem dive. I know the strings are sticking and I'm trying to find out where. I installed locking saddles so there's no slipping there. I've spent alot of time making the nut perfect. With the guitar in tune, I can grab the string behind the nut and press down till the note goes up 5 frets. When i let go, the string will go back in tune. BUT if i use the trem to slide the string thru the nut, the unwound strings come back sharp. With the strings sharp and can grab the string again BEHIND the nut and the strings will go sharper, but come back to the original sharp note. The only way to get the string to go back in tune it to push the string sharp right next to the tuner(locking). That tells me that the Sperzels are holding the string sharp....make sense?? The other problem might be that the headstock is Gibson shaped. The string drop down about 6 degrees and bend to the side about 4 degrees. Next step is o make a nut with each slot angled towards the tuner. I've noticed that all other Wilkinson/Sperzel setups have straight string pull behind the nut. Am I fighting a losing battle and install a Floyd instead? thanks, Al
  20. My first body was made a few years ago using Home Depot poplar, rasp, and a coping saw. I didn't have a router to make the neck pocket so I so I used poplar that was 1" thick and made two layers for the body. The top layer, I took my time and used the cope saw to cut the neck shape. I glued the pieces together and that made my neck pocket. I used water putty to fill all the hholes and valleys and finished using auto store can lacquer. It turned out pretty well. You just have to take your time and use what you have. good luck, Al
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