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ronnie_ca

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Everything posted by ronnie_ca

  1. Well if that falls through, I'd be more than willing to give it a try.
  2. An acoustic bass would actually be much easier than an archtop, I would think. An acoustic bass, is effectively, a larger bodied acoustic with thicker bracing. An archtop, otoh, is A LOT more work, cause you have to shape both the inside and the outside of the carve, which has to be tuned, the way the neck matches the curve of the top, setting the angle, so the strings have decent action. Theres a LOT to consider there. I'm personally playing with the idea of an acoustic bass for my first project, but they really do have to be amplified to be heard at a decent level compared to any other instruments. If you are just looking for something different, find a guitar that's close to what you want, and use a vector path drawing program (like Illustrator, but there are free ones, I think) to trace everything out. You can then tweak the paths to get exactly what you want. I've started drawing one up using Steve Vais acoustic (from Ibanez), cause it has a single cut away and 24 frets (pretty rare for an acoustic). Best of luck in what ever you choose to do though .
  3. Or my favorite, "If it ain't broke, you haven't tried hard enough"
  4. I agree with the above posts, go for the model shop quality CA (much better then super glue). I also build Scale Ships, so I have a decent supply and experience with this stuff, and it holds increadibly well. It can also be disolved with Acetone should you glue yourself to yourself, or anything else for that matter (don't laugh, it happens). The biggest problem with CA is though, it starts to breakdown after 20 or so years, from what I've been told. This probably isn't a concern due to it being used for an Inlay which is going to be snuggly in place, but it model ship building we aim for a 100 years without needing repair, so CA can cause problems (mostly due to the joints being under pressure from the rigging). Best of luck with the inlays though.
  5. I agree, very cool, I'd love to try my hand at an F style Mandolin some day.
  6. Well I'm no expert, but if it were me, I'd try to find a very similar piece of scrap wood and get some super thin strips cut (my father cuts them so thin on his table saw you can practically see through them), glue them in and sand them flush. Another option would be to fill it with epoxy, let it dry then cut out the new fret slots. Besides, if it's only very slightly croked, the new fret will cover most of the old hole anyways, the only part you'd REALLY have to worry about are the sides of the fret board.
  7. Excellent, if it's a Schaller unit, I would have no reservations at all. Looks like the 7 String mockingbird is a go. (As soon as I finish my V ). Thanks for the info guys.
  8. Well, someone thinks the pre-lawsuite guitars are worth a mighty bit: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Paul-Reed-Smith-Single-...1QQcmdZViewItem I'll be interested to see what, if anything this one goes for.
  9. Hey all, before I post this question, I just want to say that I have done a lot of research on this, and I have used the search function. Now, Warmoth sells a licenced Floyd Rose 7 string tremolo and I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with this particular unit. I know a lot of the licensed ones are sub par, and I was just wondering if any one knew if the quality was up to par? I'd love to build a seven string, but finding a decently priced 7 string floyd rose is actually much more of a challange than I had first anticipated. Anyways, I'm rambling. If anyone knows if the quality is good, or if there is another somewhat affordable option, I would be terribly grateful. If not, it looks like I'll be building a 6 string with the Schaller they sell.
  10. I've actually been planning a 7 string as my next project, so I've been looking for a floyd rose, and the only 7 string versions I've found are the ibanez edge 7 (which I think is what would be on the korean bodies) and the lo pro 7 which is on the K7 and UV777. Floyd Rose makes the original in a 7, but no other version that I know of.
  11. It is possible to use a TOM/Badass bridge with a 0 degree neck, but you will have to sink the bridge into the body slightly. This what I'm doing with my current guitar. Just try the search function and you should find some examples of this. PS. What part of NS are you from? I'm Cape Breton born and raised
  12. That would explain it, most sealers that I've seen and worked with (mind you it's not that many) have a tendancy to darken the wood a little bit.
  13. The resolution is too low to say for 100% sure, but it does look like mahogany to me. Mind you, freshly sanded mahogany is much lighter, which could be one explination (assuming its a new body). It will darken with age, and when it's finished.
  14. Hughes, not a problem. You shouldn't need a preamp if you're running the rig kontrol, as it is a preamp in itself. If for whatever reason you have the software without the hardware (I won't ask, I promise ) then yes, you will need a preamp. As my only electric guitar is in the process of being built I can't tell you for sure how well it works. I actually got the rig kontrol working (I bought a cable with two 1/4" mono jacks at one end and a 1/8" stereo on the other and ran it to the line in on my sound card). They only tests I've done with the rig kontrol thus far has been to take a crappy mic with an XLR to 1/4" cable and used it as a preamp. It sounded decent for vocals, but needed to be boosted too far to mic a guitar. (I think the problem was with the mic being designed for vocals, or the lack of phantom power, but I'm not knowledgable enough to say for sure). Oh, I just thought, if you don't have the Rig Kontrol and you want a foot controller to control Guitar Rig, I'd suggest the Behringer FCB1010, I might upgrade to that when my budget allows. It's only about $150 I think, but I've gone a little overboard with my guitar building lately
  15. I would think that moving back and forth would reak havock on your action though, you'd have to adjust the truss rod every time you switched back and forth. But I could be wrong. I've actually never owned a 12 string, but I play them every once in a blue moon, and despite how infrequently I play one, I have no issues what so ever switching back and forth feeling wise, so I wouldn't think the neck width would cause too much of an issue (albeit a 12 string would probably feel strang without the harmony strings).
  16. Thanks, I've tried the Native Instruments user forums, I'm just still not 100% sure on what I'm doing (this is all very new to me). I'm sure I'll get it figured out though.
  17. Hello all. I just bought the Guitar Rig from Music 123 and I've been having some problems with it. I can record fine (though I'm recording an acoustic with a mic, due to my only guitar being half built right now ) but I can't get the foot pedals to register. I have my mic hooked into an xlr to 1/4" cable on input port 1 and a 1/4" patch cable on output 1 going into a 1/4" to 1/8" stereo adapter which is plugged into the line in on my Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS. Could the fact that the patch cable between the controller and the sound card is mono be the culprit? I'm confussed and slightly frusterated, so any help at all would most deffinately be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
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