MrSuperflex

Ok, my english is not really good on this subject, but ill give it a try Start out on a sharpening machine (the one with a round stone in both ends rotating) The edge of the blade should be around 22.5 degrees.. It doesent have to be that precise, but thats the standard on most chisels. (a smaller angle for softer wood and a bigger angle for harder wood could be used, but it is not that important) Check if the blade is in a 90 degree angle and if it is straight all the way.. If not, continiue with the machine until it is Be careful that the iron doesent get too warm and turn blue while you sharpen it on the machine. When it gets blue, it gets soft, and soft blades are worth nothing. Dip it in water to cool it down. When the edge of the blade is "round" (hollow) you should use a normal sharpening stone. Start with a rough stone. just slide over the stone a few times, and then its time for the fine stone. Be sure that the fine stone is always wet when using it. turn the blade over when sharpening it, so you "sharpen" the "back" of it. Swich sides reguraly, and do it more and more, until you only slide over the stone once. To test if the blade is sharp, slide your thumb nail gently over the edge of the blade. if you feel any bumps, you still need to do some sharpening.. When you are finished, the edge should still be "round" or "hollow". This makes it easier to sharpen the blade, because you dont have to use the machine every time, and because you only have to remove material at the two opposite ends of the hollow rounding at the end of the blade.. If you get the picture It takes some practise to get good at sharpening blades, but this is the basic principle i use.. I know that some people do it differently, but this is what i have leaned.. And my blades get really really sharp

Im currently going to school to get the danish education of "furniture carpending" The ting i have learned about planers and thickness planers is that you should always plane two sides on a planer whithout pressing the board to the planers surface at all. This is the standard way to get rid of the boards twists and irregularities, and it also gives you a 90 degree angle. If you dont press the board to the table of the machine, the board will come out perfectly straight. The thickness planer is intended to plane the piece of wood down in thickness, and nothing else. The machine has automatic pressure to the board, wich flattens any warps or twists as long as the pressure is on, but when it is lifted, the board will bend back. That's what the machine's basicly made for. Ofcourse you can use them in other ways, and if your board is somewhat straight anyway, it wont make a lot of difference if you just use a thickness planer. But you'll have to be really lucky if you get the wood 100% straight after just going throught the thickness planer. Try that, and then try placing the wood on the clean surface of the planer. It wont be 100% flat.

wow, that thing is just beautiful.. Congratulations. i am new inhere by the way. Built nothing yet, and it will probably be a while before i get the oppourtunity to do so, but this guitar just made me sign up Building a guitar in spruce (or whatever it is call in english) - really has its charm..