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Three_Views

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  1. I am preparing myself to do my first inlay. However, I'm not sure as to when to radius the fingerboard...It seems logical that I would want to route the cavity for the inlay (and slot for the frets) while the board is still flat, but should I radius the board after gluing shell into the cavity or before (and then adjust the height of the shell in a separate sanding process)? I guess I'm not sure how resiliant shell is to sanding with a coarser grit sandpaper, especially during the early stages of radiusing. Thanks, Brent
  2. A great thought. In this case however, I'm not sure if that theory applied. The neck and middle pickups are both single coils (somewhat weaker pull than a humbucker) and they are set (IMO) low enough so they couldn't exert the kind of pull necessary to cause the problem. I really appreciate the input. Brent
  3. The guitar in question is a Yamaha RGX-TT and it has a fretboard radius of 13.75" (350mm).
  4. I apologize in advance, for I'm sure this question has already been covered: In his wonderful 3D inlay tutorial, Brian uses vinyl decal material for the graphic, but what I would like to know is what material did he adhere the decal to? I didn't know if it mattered since you are using epoxy...and that begs another question: Can you use paper instead of vinyl or would the epoxy cause the paper to react in terrible ways? Thanks, Brent
  5. Just in case anyone cares, I want to share my bemusing (to me, anyway) solution to this problem...In short changing the string gauge from .009's to .010's did the trick. With .009's installed and tuned to pitch, I could seem to get enough neck relief even when the truss rod was completely slackened (which I thought was strange)...but regardless, that is why I made a decision to try the shim. Although I'm not sure how much more force is exerted with .010's, increasing the string gauge made it now so that I had to lessen the relief by tightening the truss rod. After letting the neck settle a bit, I adjusted the radius of the saddles and bridge posts to an action of 1.6mm on the bass side and 1.2mm on the treble side @ the 12th fret The guitar now plays great with no dead notes...However, I have never witnessed such behavior where the neck requires(?) a specific string gauge. Although I prefer to play with .009's, it doesn't look like it is possible with this instrument. Has anyone else experienced something similar? Cheers, Brent
  6. After diligently following the procedure for setting up a solid body guitar, I am running into a problem that I hope isn't indicative of major issues. Anyway, the problem is that my high E string is "squelched" when played above the 15th fret...and it frets out when you bend starting at the 10th or 12th. The string functions normally when played on lower frets...and all other strings operate normally. Things I have done: -Adjusted my truss rod so that I have a .25mm gap at the 8th fret on the G string (when held against the 1st and 14th frets). -Verified that my nut height is proper (a little gap above the 1st fret when holding down on the 3rd fret). -adjusted my bridge so that my action is 1.6mm at the 12th fret of the low E and 1.2mm at the 12th fret for the high E. (raising the bridge so that the high E is about 2mm above the 12th is the only way to get it to sing without problems!) -I have also tried shimming the neck to increase my relief without success. Is this problem suggestive of some sort of fretboard/fretwire imperfection or is there a solution? Any and all ideas welcome. The guitar in question is a Yamaha RGX-TT (and is equipped with a Wilkinson VS100 bridge). Cheers, Brent
  7. It's coming out really well. OK, OK, I'm dying to know how you adhered the fabric to the body. Did you simply slather it with some basic fabric glue and stick it down? Thanks, Brent
  8. Although I cannot offer a direct answer, I have some questions which may help you determine what is going on: -How did you adhere the material to the guitar? -What adhesive did you use? -Is the clear coat being absorbed on the painted sides at the same rate as the fabric? Brent
  9. If you don't mind the extra weight and the extra money, go with the Mahoganey body wood. Brent
  10. I've got an RG550 neck (as well as a few others lying around) that are burdened with a varnish/lacquer clear coat. I would like to liberate these woods to give them the feel of a an early Jem (7PBK, 77FP). How should I approach it: -Chemical stripper? -Sanding? -Other? Thanks, Brent
  11. Brian, That is really cool. What type of material is the design: paint, decal, fabric? Did you do it yourself? Brent
  12. Gabe, Assuming it is for a 25-1/2" scale neck, I would love to get a copy of your template. When available, email it to me (check my profile for my email address) or give me a link to download it. Thanks! Brent
  13. I have had good results using "KS-3 Premium Stripper" by Klean Strip. This is the strongest stuff that I have used. You can get it in 1 Gallon containers at Home Depot for around $20. Brush on, let it sit (10-20mins) and then scrape off with a very sharp blade (to get under the finish). Once it eats through the clear coat, it is smooth sailing. Cheers, Brent
  14. Jeremy, Great stuff...I really appreciate the information. I can't wait to get started! Brent
  15. Thank you both for the information. Jeremy, Nice pics on your site...you do great work. The actual stem, use a single piece of wood the full length, don't try to cut the curves, it is so thin it will bend into the route for the stem no problem...soak the stem in hot water for about 10 minutes and put it in your route, it will bend easily. That's interesting. When composing my inital post, I thought about the possibility of soaking the wood and then setting it...but I thought the wood would expand too much to set in the route. I guess you don't have much of a problem with that? I do mine about 1/32" thick, that way I can use a standard inlay bit to cut the route. How do you get a sheet of spruce so thin? Is that the same thickness as a top/veneer for a gutar body? The actual Jem vine leaves are neon paper under resin, there is a product called crystal clear that dries dead clear. Questions: Can you point me to a supplier of resin? Is that material harder or softer than, say plexiglass? Where can I get Crystal Clear? How do you adhere the neon paper to the resin? Thanks for your time and information! Brent
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