Hasa

+1 It's a great start to what could be an awesome song The link has expired dude It worked for me earlier today...

+1 It's a great start to what could be an awesome song

That looks pretty good. I like they way that it's come out. I'm not sure whether it's the 'done thing' anymore, but I spose you could submit it for the gallery in gallery 3 (for kit guitars), considering there's only 2 there and this one's better than average. Either way, well done!

Hi, I've been loosely following this thread since about page 70, and this morning in the shower I had an idea that might just work. I did a quick bit of reading, and from my limited knowledge of electronics, I guess that it could work. It has been mentioned a few times that there is a 'pop' sound that is made when the device is turned on and off. It has also been noted that with reduced power, the 'pop' is quieter (the LP sustainer comes to mind). The idea is to use a blend pot or variable resistance pot between the battery and the circuit to reduce the amount of power going to the sustainer circuit. In theory, this could enable the circuit to be always on, but only drawing a fraction of the amount from the battery, and it could possibly remove the 'pop' sound altogether by having it so quiet that it can't be heard. It's just an idea, and I don't have the time at the moment to build a sustainer (final Year 12 exams start on Friday), but when that's all over, I reckon I'll have a go myself to make one of these things. Please let me know if it is at all possible.

I like the first one better because it would be easier to play the guitar neck and you wouldn't risk bumping the tuners or having the headstock of the mando neck getting in the way. Though depending on how you play, this might not be a problem. The idea in itself is pretty cool, and would be fun to try one day.

Thanks for the advice. I was particularly interested/concerned about the quality of the hardware... still could be good to get experience upgrading/modifying though. Sucks to live in Australia sometimes. Those Xaviere guitars look pretty good, but $125 is a fair bit to pay for shipping in what I can only guess to be USD.

I was checking out ebay (australian site) and I came across this web based company that appeared to have some good guitars at a decent price, so I checked out their homepage and from the looks of it, it doesn't seem possible for them to be able to sell these guitars for so cheap. It's especially strange because their feedback (of over 130 responses) is 100% positive. If these are cheapo low quality guitars, have I missed something? I need/want a new guitar and because year 12 exams are coming up soon, and my samick of 5 years that I got second hand has decided to be difficult and it's going to be too long before I have the chance to finish the guitar I'm working on. Would I be completely wasting my money on something that's most probably a lemon, or do you think that they're good for something to play on and then use for modding/refinish or something like that? I can afford a few hundred dollars, but at the same time, I had to quit my job because of school/study commitments. Either way, opinions would be helpful...

Thanks, I knew about a one or two of those suppliers, and now I just have to decide what to get and from where

Does anyone know where I could buy some 'exotic' guitar tops in Victoria, Australia? I don't have a credit card, which makes it really hard to buy stuff from overseas directly

+1 I'm not a huge fan of solid colours, but the way that you've created a 'theme' for the guitar really makes it work. Well done... I just hope that my guitar turns out as good as that

I had initially planned to have it made out of glass/other really dense material that was also transparent and could be moulded so that this problem could be avoided, then I saw the price of doing something like that What I settled on as a compromise was to buy a big block of acrylic (420x460x40mm) and use a band saw to get close to the shape and route that out. Then I discovered the problem that has set me back substantially. What I think that you're trying to say is that by putting the wires in surgical tubing, the wires will be less noticible, which they will be, but the problem remains that the channels routed would still be unsightly. I just had a thought, would it be reasonable/possible to get an old large mirror and have it shaped into a pickguard? Other than being made out of glass, I don't see any possible problems, and by doing this the creativity/abstractness of the guitar would still remain... Either way, I think that I might have to do a small side project with some more scrap pieces of wood to see if adding a pickguard would have an adverse effect on the image of the guitar.

Firstly, I'm not sure if this is the right section to start this topic in, but anyway, here goes... I'm still working on building the same (and first) guitar of mine, and I've recently decided that rear routing to fit the electronics wouldn't be a good idea at all since it would defy the purpose of the build (more on that later). Here we go: Below is a dodgy screen shot of the plan from the CAD file that I made - This link is for a better picture (make sure that you maximise the window) - http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h100/Has...ubleNeckCAD.jpg Anyway, back to the point. What I need feedback on is whether the pickguard design that I have made suits firstly the design, and secondly the guitar itself. The guitar is made out of a similar material to this one - http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h100/Has...tarman1copy.jpg As you can see from the photo, the routing of the control cavity reduces the transparency of the body at that particular point, and the position of the cavity would make it very hard to clean up to an acceptable smoothness. As for the pickguard itself, I was thinking of making it out of either transparent acrylic with aluminium foil glued to the back or some of that shielding paint, but I think that it will be much easier to use the foil. Another possibility that I have considered is using different coloured pieces of acrylic in a type of collage, but having a pattern that will work with the rest of the relatively simple design may be a problem. It's not overly obvious, but I intended to make a similar guitar to the Gibson EDS-1275 with a few changes, ie. 25.5" scale length, acrylic body, side input etc... Any comments/suggestions are welcome, and if you want a better look at the CAD drawing I have done, PM me. BTW, does anyone know of any tutorials for designing 3D objects in AutoCAD?

Thanks

After a quick, but far from comprehensive search on the topic, I have a question that needs answering. I have just rewired the electronics and polished the frets of a friend's Epiphone SG copy (it's a G-310) and the strings were stuffed and the only spares that I had were a set of 12's. There's no problem with the strings themselves, or anything else that I've done, but with a heavier set of strings on, the string height seems to have increased enough for the playability on the heigher frets to be decreased. I am quite sure that the last set of strings were 11's. To solve this problem, should I lower the bridge to get a lower action or should i adjust the truss rod?

I stripped and refinished a strat copy as my first attempt at modding a guitar, and bearing in mind that put in a humbucker at the bridge, the overall sound hardly changed at all. That being said, all the hardware was kept original which aparently contributes a bit to the 'sound' that you get. I haven't had the time (or the money ) to do a complete upgrade on the hardware yet, but when a guitar has cheap, and to some extent kinda nasty, hardware, any change seems like an improvement.