Jump to content

Clem

Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Clem

  1. 1. wouldn't suggest it. 2. will not work over urethane or enamel or whaterver fender is using now. 3. the sealer is to lock in stain or to protect the natural wood color. Someone brought me a 78 fender p-bass that had a gummed up finish that took on the felt from the case and looked like a hairy gorrilla. They used laquer over urethane or whatever fender used in the late 70's and the laquer never cured. It was a horrible sight but it was salvaged into new again. Do some research and find out what kind of paint is on your guitar first to save some heartache later.
  2. Did a job with deft and my spray gun. thought I'd save some money but it didn't work out. The guitar was finished in Dec. and still hasn't cured yet. Deft in the can is very thick(made for brushing) and I sprayed it like other laquers. It built up too thick and never cured. Luckily the buyer is a good friend and understood that in a few months he'll get a new paint job on that guitar. Spend the money to get quality stuff like McFaddens. That is all I use now and it dries in 2 weeks easily with no hassle. I bought a lacquer that they sell at wal-mart(deft). I don't think I would have ever bought one of their guitars! Live and Learn..
  3. Thanks for the help.I checked out photobucket but they require an e-mail address and right now I'm getting so much junk mail that I'm going to change my e-mail so I'm reluctant to give it away. Just thought that maybe there was a way to just attach a file to your post.
  4. How do you get these cats to let you post a picture without having them at a URL address?
  5. their website is acaidianhardwoods.com They might be worth checking out. they do have some wood posted on their website but it may not be all that they have. I have been wanting to check out Riverside for a long time but since Katrina that kind of blew that. I didn't even think that they would be open being they are on the East side of N.O. Next time I go to Mandeville I may go and check Acadian out. If I find anything good I'll post it for you here. Also we get 1/4" lexan by the 4x8 sheet at work I'll try to find out where they buy it from becasuse I'd like to remake all of my templates with it and do away with the plywood.
  6. Hey thegarehanman, have you ever used acadian hardwoods to get wood? if so how is their selection? I live in south LA also and was wondering about them Cause I see their trucks in town alot (thibodaux) I know Pontchatoula is pretty close to Slidell And from the pictures on the web they look to be pretty big and they deliver.
  7. I use a full size router to make them but I start out with a thicker piece of wood than I need. This helps to make it stronger while routing on my table. I then go back and plane it down with my router after all holes are drilled and sides are cut. It also helps to make them with the grain going longways across the ring that way the thinnest part doesn't have small sections of grain that will crack easily. It just took trial and error and wasted wood too figure this out. hope it helps for future reference.
  8. I forgot to mention that the template(strat copy) I used had a neck joint pocket that was too tight to fit the neck in it. I used this for a friends guitar and we had to cut the pocket bigger to fit the neck in it. He made the body And I made the neck. both templates were in a matched set but they didn't fit. I never tried it in a Fender body to see which one was wrong ,the neck or the pocket. Obviosley they aren't exact templates. If the fit is over tight with bare wood it will be worse once the guitar is finished with lacquer ,etc. trying to fit a neck in a pocket like that will cause sorrow when the finish chips or cracks from the pressure. You definitely need to fix that joint.
  9. a 22 fret neck has a fingerboard that overhangs from the end of the neck, generally.I have a friend that bought a strat copy template from them. The fret marker holes were not in the correct place for a 22.5 scale legnth so beware and chek them out first,maybe it was just this template, but don't know for sure.So to answer the original question you could use the template for either.
  10. Whats the point of selling a guitar body already finished when the body itself is not finished? It seems like a crack in the paint will be inevidable for someone just starting out and having to route it for pickups.Maybe it would be a good concept for a variax type guitar.I build guitars and would neither build in that fashion or buy myself more of a headache than we sometimes can get from the building process alone.nope wouldn't do it.
  11. A jig with a router is the way to go unless you have a CNC. I made one awhile back out of frustration because the was no way I could get it straight like the guy on the video I have. The only thing I have to worry about know is the glue time not the glue line. And I thought that I came up with that jig first! Oh well.
  12. Hey even if you had the buff pads you would still have to buff the inside of the horns by hand so practice up because it does consume time. One tip for the foam pad is to put it on your drill press instead of a hand drill. You can adjust the RPM's and the result is above the hand drill by far.
  13. One way to do it is to install the stud bolts back in to resonable depth then get a claw hammer to pull them out. Be sure to put a piece of wood in between the hammer and the body so you don't leave hammer marks behind. Go slow and gently work around the stud. I have done this before with no problem but I'm always open to a better and easier way. Good Luck!
×
×
  • Create New...