Hello,
The original post was delegated from the forum so I put it back. Unfortunatly I can not bring back the replies but I added my reply.
This is a prototype project and I called this project "most-thin" guitar as I have seen the description of avengers63 telling about his "super-thin" guitar.
For the first project I decided to build a prototype in order to test by myself some changes to the common designs:
I want to find if it really necessary to use "tone woods"? After all it is an "electric guitar" and not a classical "wood guitar". The body was build from 3 pieces of beech wood, standard material for furnishers. This wood is 24 mm thick which means that after processing it will be about 21-22 mm (about 0.85"). This brings to the test the need of wood mass to get nice tones. After all playing should be fun and not weight carrying.
The body gluing:
The neck is a modified one from an old cheap "Cort" guitar that I dismantled. I will join the neck to the body with V shaped joints. They were carved partly by manual chiseling (sorry, no CNC, you can see it in the picture) so they are not matching exactly but I will solve it when it will be glued. The other items mentioned here I have seen on different other guitars, except for these joints.
neck join:
I was inspired by the ideas of thehttp://buildingtheergonomicguitar.com/ site and decided to build a headless guitar. It will be done later and will end in a short, low weight, easy to handle guitar. The lower side of the body is widely carved for better playing in sitting position while the upper body is carved to get a hugging effect. I hope you like it, I like the feeling.
I used also the other hardware, including pickups, from that dismantled guitar. For the electronics I have to do some modifications because the original switches do not match the low width.
routed prepered for smoothing:
Last but not less important, all my choices were guided by the need for cheap and standard materials that will be needed to build a totally new guitar like this. This is why I didn’t use a neck-thru and I used standard tuning keys at the back instead of expensive special parts that are available on the market.
Best Regards,
Avi Ten
And here is the answer to the comments:
Thanks for the encouragement and comments. I put together my ideas on the above remarks:
The two horns look more balanced in practice then in the pictures, and it will still be shaped in the fine wood work.
I have good reasons for the long upper horn. The truth is that I did not know how long it should be so I cut the maximum length that was available on the wood, planning to shorten it on the run. After the first shortening it looked to me so nice that I stopped cutting it. The upper side has two ergonometric considerations: the curve is a little closer to the front (compared to standard guitars), this together with the high horn makes it more convenient to hold the guitar closer to the body at sitting position and holding the neck at an upward position.
I agree that the beech is not the best choice. If this guitar works good I will have to builds the next from another wood. I need help from the forum to find a wood for this: light, strong and stiff to function at this low profile and…. not too exotic or costly.
I am not so worried about the fact that neck joint is not perfect. I am still playing with the height of the guitar elements on this low body thickness so that I am not sure about the final angle of the neck to the body (I am trying to go down with the elements so as not to end up with a thin body but a fat frofile) . The sloppy chiseling will give me the freedom in angle fixing. Hahah, nice excuse. Anyway, on the next guitar it must be perfect.