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bob123 last won the day on October 6 2013

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  1. Ok gents. Ive wracked my brain on this one. Short of putting them in a baggy and stuffing them in a box, does anyone have any ideas for clever organization and storage of these? This is about 2/3'rds of my collection of tuners, I have about 150 tuners lol. If anyone is looking for gotoh or grover tuners... let me know... I've posted em on ebay pretty cheap, but no nibbles on em for whatever reason.
  2. that outline technique is an awesome idea.
  3. I purchased a storage box for my screws and tuners and stuff like that. Its astounding how many little boxes and crap I was able to get rid of just by condensing into one spot. I'll upload pics of my home made bench and shelf, its cleaning up real well!
  4. O.o Here i am cleaning my glasses out for no reason lol. Good to know, ill grab some.
  5. O.o what plastic cups are you using? lol Every time I've tried plastic, it just eats right through the stuff... glass always works well for me. I blanked out and used a plastic cup the other day, made a huge mess haha.
  6. All this serious discussion makes me feel very fortunate with my catalyzed experiences... I haven't had any issues since following demonx's stirring techniques, double pouring, and filtering. Curious, you are mixing in glass, not plastic right? (just dummy checking)
  7. Also, make sure you guys filter your paints. Not sure if its needed, but i double pour the paint. Anyone have thoughts on that?
  8. Im speaking directly of the "dramatic" colored woods like purpleheart and padauk woods. They are known to fade to a very less dramatic color over time, but I was curious if you used a UV blocking clear, would they sustain their color?
  9. indeed. Just giving some recent experience that seemed prudent lol. Mistake I learned that I had to redo a lot of work needlessly. edit: I had assumed incorrectly that primer would "seal" and save me some time... boy that bit me in the buttocks...
  10. I have some stuff that I can wetsand and buff in about 30 minutes lol. 2k CURES by catalyst, it shouldn't require a lot of time to "cure" vs "dry". I let my stuff dry overnight just to be "safe" but it's not needed. I also haven't had any issue over pretty much anything I've done wood wise. Bare wood, colored wood, painted wood, sealed wood... all the same for me.
  11. food for thought, I had an interesting "reaction" with a guitar I modified a little while ago. I used a basswood ibanez body, and cut it down to size to add a flame maple top. I sanded the back and sides down to the sealer, but broke through the sealer in a couple spots. I didn't think much of it, but after I painted it, there was DEFINITE witness lines and absorption on the basswood where the sealer broker through. I wound up sanding back again, and resealing with some vinyl sealer which worked out nicely.
  12. I've been dabbling with 2k clears lately, and my favorite part is how it cures fast. If yours is still "tacky" or "gummy" I would be willing to guess you may have not mixed it properly? That or there was an inclusion (moisture, or otherwise)? If it does wind up curing properly, those lines should disappear when you cut and buff.
  13. Id pass on the geiger counter. One good knock on the guitar and the ionization chamber gets damaged, and then it becomes an expensive paper weight. Cool ideas, the slide pot and key are pretty freaking cool ideas. Also, a good idea for "aging" parts and wood... cut open a couple d cell batteries and put that mess where you want wear and fatigue looking stuff.
  14. Just curious, you say you're using a squeegee. I've seen this method as well, and it's NEVER worked for me. Have you tried using a razor blade? I've had good results with epoxy + ash using a razor blade and z-poxy.
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