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bob123 last won the day on October 6 2013

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  1. Another masterpeice Wes. Some constructive criticism for you. 1) the overly large gap in your nut. Just didn't feel like using the proper size material or you messed up? Looks sloppy. Easy to fix though. 2) The glue joint on the body is pretty poor, I would use more clamps or joint it more properly next time. 3) the transition for the fretboard to the headstock looks like crap. I would have personally sanded that back to make a more smooth transition. 4) your body chamfers look uneven from the bass to treble side. Perhaps some better routing techinques? did you free hand that o
  2. Here we go again... You guys take a simple question and turn it into a battle field, using your wanton accusations and assumptions to put words in my mouth, and twist what I have stated to your own malignance. Lets get this straight 1) you and wes are HOBBYISTS. You two are NOT professional builders. Why are you two the ones always defining the lines? You do great work, sure, but you are still just hobbyists. 2) You and wes are the only ones that get pissy whenever I ask a question. EDIT: since one of you will say it, I don't care if everyone on the internet agrees with you two. Th
  3. I use those ferrules and inserts on cheaper guitars, and, tone voodoo aside, I notice a relatively dramatic change in tone for the better. More sustain and resonance. I would do it to my more expensive guitars, but that whole "Resale" thing... Normally I use stainless steel into brass, which theoretically could have some corrosion issues, but here in the midwest, I don't think that would ever be an issue.
  4. Well wes, I've built a cherry neck, worked great. I've built a few walnut necks, worked great. I've built an oak and maple neck, worked great. I've built an ash and jatoba neck, worked great. Ive also built the prototypical maple necks, which of course work great. All of these are uncommon for neck woods. In my experience using them, I can't understand why. Some builders will not use Walnut for a neck, and I can't get a straight answer. So in my experience, asking those with MORE experience usually solicits suitable information so I can add their experience to my repetoire. Since I've done
  5. Thats really what I was assuming. Shame really, has such a great feel. I really enjoyed making this one. Color doesn't seem distasteful either, but to each their own I guess.
  6. I recently built a quasi pensa super strat ish build, and I decided to use a quarter sawn piece of cherry for the neck. The piece was very resonant, had a wonderful tap tone, and felt very good once finish sanded. Cherry isn't more expensive then maple around here, which leads me to wonder why its not used more? It's regarded as a very high stability wood, which would seem to lean itself to the luthier world more then it has. Yes, yes I know a few guitars are made from cherry, but no where near where maple is concerned. Another curiousity, why is walnut not used for necks much either? See
  7. Haha shes adorable! just dont do her in paisley and we are all set!
  8. Is the contrast between the neck pieces due to the camera angle or is it that drastic? Just looks kinda out of place, like the one peice blends in too well with the body wing, so it looks off center for some reason.
  9. Break it and glue it or leave it alone. Its not structural at all, ive had that happen to a bunch of my ibanez guitars, never been an issue
  10. Man thats pretty cool. I really like the super long tenon. Im not an SG guy at all, but that thing is scorching.
  11. Ive actually been dying to make a cello. Very excited to watch this.
  12. I wasn't speaking about acoustics though, those are its own thing in my eyes. Go to some of the tele and strat forums. If its not done with nitro, its "garbage" to a lot of them. Even if you put 30 coats of nitro on, its still better and more resonant then a nice thin coat of poly. Even though thats complete garbage, and anyone with half a brain can see why. As far as differences in glue on an electric, Im still skeptical. DTM uses epoxy for EVERYTHING, PRS uses plain old wood glue, Gibson uses hide glue, fender uses polyurethane glue, tom anderson uses something that dries in like 30 min
  13. On my headless build, I actually had the body peices fall apart. It was the strangest thing. It was humid out, and I had used titebond 2 for the glue up, and it literally just fell apart in my hands. It was very strange, because the glue was still visible on the seams, but it came apart like splitting two pieces of bread apart. Im thinking the humidity weakened the glue joint enough for it to just fall apart. I was having a conversation with Tyler here on the board, and mid sentence it just split apart. threw the bottle of TB2 I had and got another, haven't had issues with it since. Just p
  14. I've honestly never had issues with any of that. I certainly wont disagree with it not being the best or anything, but I don't necessarily feel its this foul evil that a lot of luthiers make it out to be. Some will claim the only way to properly glue wood is with hide glue. I mean, thats been proven false for decades now, yet people still cling to it for dear life. Same thing with "nitro" finishes being the only "acceptable" finish. You can pile on coats of nitro, but as long as its nitro, it has a better tone right? Apples to oranges I know, just anecdotal. But for finishing, I mean, I g
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