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bob123

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Everything posted by bob123

  1. For nuts, id highly suggest getting a graph tec nut and shaping it to the size you need. Cutting nuts from scratch is tedious precision work that really does need expensive tools to really do an awesome job. 5$ nut and some paper gets you a perfect nut every time.
  2. I Did some pinsstriping (evh style lines) like that ages ago. The paint didnt bleed, but the lines from the razor always kinda stuck out. As long as youre using a high quality tape, careful with your cutting, no reason you cant produce a great result.
  3. Unless youre handy with chisels, id suggest using rasps and a spoke shave. Some here love chisels, and its certainly an art form that i dont have.
  4. That looks great. Whered you get the hardware? Im building a headless and all i can fimd is the 300$ hipshotset! Is it too late for recessed wooden cavity covers?
  5. The real question... how many bolts are you going to use for the neck? xD
  6. Its ok. Appreciate you taking the time to offer advice. I use a weller soldering station, and I crank the heat up for most pot solders, the only time I turn it down at all usually is when Im wiring temp sensitive things (switch contacts, resistors, capacitors, etc), even then I use brass alligator clips as a heat sink. I've been dabbling on the idea of making grounding terminals out of copper, and attaching those directly inside the control cavity. That way installation can be streamlined and much cleaner perhaps. I will try it out on my current build, and let you guys know how it goes. The pot terminal would be cool, but I guess not worth the headache from a manufacturing point of view.
  7. I normally dont like back headstock veneers, but it just seems like it would go well here. The back of my ibanez j custom has a veneer on it, and its very classy for some reason. Looks great the way it is, just verbalizing a thought. Thank you bob123 Being a commission build, the client only wanted the headstock face veneered. However, on this occasion, it would be a shame to hide any more of that Rosewood
  8. Nice! Very clean work. Have you ever thought about veneering the back side of the headstock? I love that super clean heel a lot, looks very much like RAN level work.
  9. You offer other choices of bridge though i assume? I personally dislike khalers, but to each their own. They are certainly easy to route and install though.
  10. Guys, ive been soldering guitars since i was 12 years old. I have a weller soldering station, i know all the tricks. Some times its a pain to get the solder to stick to the top, ergo difficult to tin it. I have no idea why its a pain sometimes, but it happens. Swede, thats pretry much exactly how i do it. I usually strip out more wire then i need, tin it, then cut it length. That or i wrap it around the post to get a solid mechanical
  11. I have a question you have probably answered already, but why khalers all the time?
  12. I can appreciate that answer, I just find it odd that all these manufacturers for mass produced guitars haven't found a way to do this yet. It's not laziness, its "working smarter, not harder". Im pretty damn good at soldering, and sometimes it takes me 5 minutes to get a good solder joint on the back of the pot. Sanding it back to fresh aluminum, scuffing it to promote adhesion, etc... sometimes its just a PITA to get it on there.... where as a simple terminal on the top would make that become a 2 second job. It also would almost entirely prevent cold joints on the top, because you could physically attach the wire, not just glue it to the top. I did the math, and yeah its not really worth it industrial scale, so I can see that it wouldn't be a mass produced thing, however, there are some niche products out there, and I was hoping someone would know if this existed. Good call on the tabbed pots, I totally forgot those exist. Usually I wind up buying those on accident when Im using it on a strat and have to clip them off.
  13. Thanks dude, glad I saved this bad boy
  14. I can see how its used. Its a fancy lock washer. Still doesn't have a ground lug. Was hoping something like this was existing in a dark corner applicable for guitar wiring.
  15. Wipe on poly is a very long curing process before you can buff it out. I would use a laquer (catalyzed or nitro) instead honestly.
  16. Ive never seen or heard of these being used. Worth berating me publicly? If my idea was so dumb, why do these exist? Thanks for your time.
  17. OK fine. Explain to me whats so "bob" about this one. 1) Instead of spending time scratch the top of a pot, you can simply attach it to the lug that would already be there. Not only will it save time, it will give better contact and be less likely to pull away over time. 2) An extension would allow you to screw the pot to the wood, keeping it still for the life of the screw. OBVIOUSLY this isn't going on a strat pickguard gentlemen, but think of guitars with solid wood tops. 3) The cost increase of this would almost be negligable. Even if I needed to spend an extra dollar, it would be a prudent investment as far as Im concerned. 4) I say "lol" to lighten the mood. If thats a problem, so be it. Striking through a comment is about as mature as a "12 year old" as you imply. A pm would be more prudent for that crap. 5) Instead of bantering around, how about we answer the question instead of giving vague, ambiguous, and rude comments. Isn't that against the rules?
  18. Hey... dont.... lose your head over it... Ahhhh i crack myself up....
  19. Im missing the obvious then lol. I would pay more for a pot i could firmly attach that had a prong for grounding the top easier.
  20. If so, where can I find them, if not, WHY NOT? lol
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