hendrikjan

Thanks guys, It sure is a whole lot more complicated than i ever imagined .. haha I aprreciate the answers and will let you all knwo how hings go Cheerio

Actually, glues are strongest in shear (where the parts want to slide against each other on the glued surface). They're weaker in tension (pulling perpendicular to the glued surface) and peeling. Well designed bonded joints and weldments transfer load in shear. But, yeah, a vertical laminate can have much less or no shear across the bondline. There's probably is going to be some, depending on where the bondline is relative to the tuners. The neck is getting pulled into a bowed shape, by the strings acting through tuners and where the string contacts the nut. If one of the vertical laminations is doesn't have a tuner in it pulling it toward the the bridge, the adjacent lamination that does have a tuner in it is going to pull it into the bowed shape... through the bondline in shear. The loading on a horizontal laminate bondline is probably less severe than the load on the bondline of scarf joint for a tilt back head. That bondline has more shear, over a smaller area, and a peeling component to the load. so is it a stronger construction, the horizontal laminate? or weaker... hmm I am a bit confused.. But I am sure going to try to build one that way sometime in the future ..

That is exactly wht i mean wohoo i have found some one who does this I thought it impossible that no one used this design method .. but here we go .. now .. what are the pro's and teh cons ..

When making a laminated neck people always us a "vertically" oriented lamination, does this have reason? Somehow I think that a " horizontal" lamination would structuraly be more sound.... (stronger) Anyone have any ideas on this?

ok cool thanks guys

Hey folks, I am still working and thinking a lot about my fivestring fretless bass project .. the parts and the woods are slowly dripping in ... but i have come up with a new idea.. And I cannot seem to find any decent info on the matter .. so .. I thought I'd ask here Anyway .. I was planning on using ebony on my fretless project .. Nice hard dark wood that can bring with a crisp tone quality .. or at least thats how i perceive it ... I ran across purple heart wood the other day and thought this was also a really nice wood ... I haven't seen any instruments with a purple heart fretless fretboard .. Does anyone know if this wood is suitable for such a thing? hope to hear something

woods work, unlike government employees... haha no.. what i am trying to say is that wood can do those warping things when it is drying. If you plane it flat after it is dry .. there should not be any problems

I think that is just the result of the neck shaping .. but i might be mistaken

what also helps if you let the drill go "in reverse" you need a bit more force to push it in, but the chances of cathing on the bitt are a lot smaller

Honestly, I don't believe it'll affect it at all. Or if it does, there will be no way of knowing because of all the other variables involved in a guitar. The question is really one of coolness factor (your own opinion of cool). The rest is just voodoo --you know, you can dance around a fire and walk across broken glass, that might make the sound better too. On the project I just finished, I cut myself, and the blood just happened to drip into the neck pocket, so I left it there. Bet it's going to sound great! Another couple of weeks and it'll be ready to string up. As for whether or not you can build it...hell, if you can dream it, you can build it. Just take your time, practice on scrap. If I could build a guitar without completely screwing it up, then you can too. ← hmm yeah you might have a point there .. i definatly have to spray my bass with blood before i string it

thanks for the positive feedback And the interesting link First a few things, I am (almost) sure that I will **** up this (or parts of this) guitar ... since it is my first project and, although I am quite the handyman around the house, my woodworking skills have yet to be proven ... lets just say that I have reason to believe that I am not the stradivarious of electric bass guitar land ... This however does not stop me from wanting to build my own project... and playaround with all the ideas that come to mind in the process ... The trouble is though.. the more I read and the more i make adjustments to my plans ( I just started of with a 35 inch line, it being the scale length, and took it from there) the more questions I have .. the further away it takes me from acctualy building the thing ... There is something else that also does not help; I do not have a clear picture in my mind of how I want my bass to sound .. I am a fan of a lot of different sounds and do not have the intention of creating a bass with a particular sound .. I would rather have it play nice and that the sound is not so great than the other way around ... (i think) Some decisions are for a great dela bassed on the path of least resistance ... i.e. fretless .. the precisssion work of frets, sawing, leveling, hamering etc. there is just to much that can go wrong .. on the other hand I love upright basses ... Luckily it also takes a good deal of time to find the right woods, get all the parts not to mention tools, it also helps that I am in no hurry what so ever .. Therefore it doesn't really bother me that i get these ideas. .. which throw me off for while ... I have a nice playing and sounding (self customized) ibi bass.. so this really is a learning and discovering experience Of course I hope to have the ultimate dream instrument with a playabillity and sound that cannot be matched .. but lets be real about this.. No to come back to the idea ... if you guys are still reading .. does anyone have any ideas of how it would effect the sound ... though? If you do the normal ninty degree srting thru method .. the string has at least 4 (insert hole, exit hole, bridge, nut) contact points with the guitar befor it reaches the tuning machine .. If you put the string in at an angle you can eliminate one of these points. ... the exit hole.. how will this influence the the sound .. .. cheers

Hey hello, I am slowly contineuing my five string fretless bass project. I am reading a lot and it takes a lot of time designing the whole thing... slow steps, many decissions etc. etc. (it is also my first project) I just recently received a Badass V bass bridge, I am not sure whther it is really all that but it looks solid and i read nice reviews (all hype???). I planned to use this as a normal bridge, i.e. not string thru. When i read the info on the package it mentioned that it was also possible to use it as a string thru bridge. Which made me ponder that idea... What has me puzzled though, is the angle the string should make. Should it go straight through the body of the guitar and then make an almost 90 degree angle into the bridge or could you also drill holes at an angle... instead of drilling trought the "back" of the bass you drill holes through the side (the side that also holds the strap button) this would result in a different angle and it would probably also have influence on the wy the bass sounds. I have not been able to find any info on this matter on this site or any other for that matter ... Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated

Ok, so I am having a little trouble here .. I have been searching the forum but have not come up with any answers .. what determins the lengt of the truss rodd ... say I want to make a 34 inch scale lengt five strnig fretless bass (octave as if it would have had 24 frets) with a bolt on neck .. how do you determine the length of the truss rod? The toipics i did find where screaming about using the search and saying how this isseu has been dealt with soo often that is became a bore .. but i am seriuously haviung trouble finding the right info .. also melvin his cock does not say anyuthing about it .. Is there a rule or should you just be sure that is is at least two thirds of the lengt of the neck.. or what? Thanks a bunch Hendrikjan ← Rule of thumb. don't make it longer than the fret board or nut to heal of the neck(if your fretboard overhangs the neck). Most manufactured TR's for electrics are made 17-18" most bass 23-24". As an example -34" scale bass with 24 frets. Nut to 24th fret will be 25.5" and the fretboard will be slightly longer than(a little room beyond 24th fret). Assuming you don't have the fretboard overlapping the neck you would have better than 1.5" of play. In most cases the common manufactured sizes will work just fine . Peace,Rich P.S. You should add the truss rod that you will be using to your drawings that you are working with. That way you can see just how it will fit in relation to your neck. If you don't have drawings made than you should make them. ← cool thanks Rich

Ok, so I am having a little trouble here .. I have been searching the forum but have not come up with any answers .. what determins the lengt of the truss rodd ... say I want to make a 34 inch scale lengt five strnig fretless bass (octave as if it would have had 24 frets) with a bolt on neck .. how do you determine the length of the truss rod? The toipics i did find where screaming about using the search and saying how this isseu has been dealt with soo often that is became a bore .. but i am seriuously haviung trouble finding the right info .. also melvin his cock does not say anyuthing about it .. Is there a rule or should you just be sure that is is at least two thirds of the lengt of the neck.. or what? Thanks a bunch Hendrikjan

ja zo hollands als het maar zijn kan .. En tja je moet toch ergens beginnen ; you have to start somewhere ... I have hardly any experienxe in woodwordking .. made a few small windmills .. and skateboards .. but that is pretty straight forward .. doesn't matter if something is not flat or square .. This is a totaly different story, guitar/ bass building .. I thought about starting of with a pre made neck .. but I figured the neck is just about the entire instrument .. so if I don't make the neck I might as well stop immediatly I guess .. what I am wondering is, what is flat enough .. and I guess the hardest thing is .. how to make one side flat so that you have a reference for the others (this relates to the paralel sides) And onwhich side do you start, after gleuing the laminates, do you just asume the outer edges are paralel? What is good enough? What is prefered a hand plane or a "power" plane.. I guess there are just a lot of insecurities that i run into ... and the only way I will find out is to do it .. but tips are still welcome